Installing ASCO red hat valves

[Tpmc]

I've read the 23 page thread on this, and purchased the red hats. Is there a specific DIY writeup on this? I'm not certain on the best place to install them (my brass valves leak in addition to the flow-wrongs) and exactly how to wire them. Any help is greatly appreciated.

[NautiqueJeff]

Wow, that's the solution that I came up with years ago. Haven't heard reference to it in forever, but it was a GREAT fix for the problem. You will be very happy with the results.

Just wire them so that the valves open when the pumps are turned on, and close when they are off. I just spliced them into the power wires for the pumps. Worked great. Mine were fairly close to the through-hulls, but they can go anywhere on the input line.

[johnboyy7]

+1 on what jeff said. what i did and works great. i do recommend if you have 3/4 through hulls going to 1''.... not near as restricting. fittings are easy to find.

[thedude]

Return the valves (unless you got them for real cheap) and get Johnson Impeller pumps. Those valves were expensive last time I checked, about the same price as an impeller pump.

[Tpmc]

Return the valves (unless you got them for real cheap) and get Johnson Impeller pumps. Those valves were expensive last time I checked, about the same price as an impeller pump.

I got all three for $150 total, I did see the cheaper option after I bought the first two though. Hopefully the install goes well, and the issue gets fixed.

[Tpmc]

Hey Jeff,
Was there a trick to getting the 120vac valves to work? I thought I read where yours worked, I can't get mine to open unless they get 120.
Thanks, Patrick

[obd666]

Those valves were expensive last time I checked, about the same price as an impeller pump.

not sure what one of those pumps go for these days, but i got all three valves for $125 back when i did it.

Hey Jeff,
Was there a trick to getting the 120vac valves to work? I thought I read where yours worked, I can't get mine to open unless they get 120.
Thanks, Patrick

you'll need the 12V DC valves, not 120V AC.

[brhanley]

Do you mind posting exactly the valve you purchased? Are the valves safe with water exposure in the ski locker?

[obd666]

Do you mind posting exactly the valve you purchased?

can be obtained at http://stores.ebay.com/valves4projects

Are the valves safe with water exposure in the ski locker?

will be fine, just keep your wiring up off of the floor of the bilge

[brhanley]

Great, thanks. I assume you screw in a fitting with a nipple on either end. I think my hoses are 1" so I should get the 1" valve I guess. I hope the voltage works. This could be a sanity saver in my ski locker...hate I have to move the seat to open-close.

[dwelsh]

Hi all, I've been following this thread with interest as I have an 04 SV-211 with the TH valves fitted which I shipped to OZ last year. I'm wanting to change them over to the electric version as noted above. What size valve should I be ordering? The TH valves are 1/2" so should the electric valve be 1/2" with male hose fitting? Or should I get 3/4" electric valve with 1/2" hose fitting? Does 1/2" restrict flow? Thanks in advance.

[obd666]

would use the 3/4" valves and use fittings to match up with your hose, which i believe is 3/4 also

[dwelsh]

Thanks for the response, they are indeed 3/4" ID hoses used on the ballast system so I've ordered the 3/4" valves.

For those that are interested I'm also going to modify the helm valve controls. I'm thinking of removing the pointer only from the open/close handle, glueing the handle itself so it can't be moved and installing two LEDs, each one above the open and close on each control (port,belly & starboard). A red LED will signify a closed valve and a green LED will signify an open valve. I thought I might do this so that the top part of the helm control doesn't become completely redundant when i install the electric valves even if the push buttons on the dash clearly show you what's going on to each ballast tank when used. I'm investigating the easiest way to wire a small circuit into the system so I get the correct indications to the LEDs. I'll post more info as I progress if anyone is interested.