96 Ski Nat Engine/Cooling Pictures PLEASE

[s_kelley2000]

Yes looks like that should work. Just keep an eye on the temp but if it stays at about 160 and you can touch the risers (warm but not hot) then it sounds like everything is circulating properly.

[hidnnos]

Shawn, your help has been greatly appreciated, cheers!

Tomorrow it's lake time, ahhhhhhhhhhhh

[s_kelley2000]

No problem, glad I could help pay back some of the help I have gotten from many others on here over the years. I hope everything goes smooth for you on the water tomorrow.

[Quinner]

That looks like a standard radiator hose someone butchered in there. That may work but it is not right and you should replace that section with the proper wire reinforced hose.
If that hose fails it would do one of two things, not get proper water to the motor causing an overheat or would be like removing the drain plug, allowing water to pour in.

Compare that hose to what is below the strainer and probably after the trans cooler, squeeze them to feel the difference.

The routing could also shortcut behind the starter and across the back, key is to not be bent hard or against anything that may move.

[swc5150]

On the first pic of three that Kelley posted, you can see the hose coming off the intake that connects with strainer. That's what yours should look like, as Chris mentioned. Someone McGyver'd your boat. It shouldn't have to go over the top of the engine shroud. Your motorbox may even rub against the current set up you have, potentially causing failure? Years back, I was in a boat where the intake hose disconnected from the fresh water intake and the bilge filled with water in a hurry. It was actually water pouring out from under the motorbox that first indication.

[hidnnos]

I see no other way it can be routed. Why I initially asked someone for a picture of their or the correct setup. Any help is appreciated

[Quinner]

The hose is completely wrong so it is forcing an improper route.

The proper hose used in that application is just straight hose, no moulded bends. The hose in that pic looks like some off the shelf radiator hose with moulded bends in it.
It is not a marine hose and should not be used in this application. Like I mentioned in my previous post, squeeze them all and it will be pretty clear what I am saying.

Go to Ski Dim, white lakes or N3's site and search wire reinforced water hose, you may even be able to use the stuff without the wire, but that is what should be used. If that was my boat I would replace that before taking it out.

[Quinner]

Did you put this hose in or did the boat come with it? There is a flush flo pro on the floor in that pic, was that previously installed?

[hidnnos]

No one here argued about the hose being different than spec and I get what you're saying about the wire hose, difference is easy to see or touch. I see no restriction in routing though, the pipe goes straight up so I'm not forcing any different direction. If the hose in the original picture is the same hose (don't think it is) then it would have to make a sharp 90 degree turn straight down to run around the lower back of the engine/trans.

If anyone has a picture of a stock/OE setup, I'd appreciate it

[hidnnos]

Did you put this hose in or did the boat come with it? There is a flush flo pro on the floor in that pic, was that previously installed?

Yes, main issue, I got it with the flush kit installed. I bought the boat from an old gentleman whos kids dealt with the boat. The old man said he thinks you just take our the one way valve and hook the rest back up, but I assure you he was incorrect. So, I posted and asked on here what it looks like stock.

Edit: I assure you've I've searched quite a bit for a simple picture and came up empty. MANY pictures of the front of the engine, but NONE of the back like I posted. It's brutal, trust me, very frustrating week.

[Quinner]

If you disconnect the radiator hose from the strainer, now let the strainer fall where it may, probably behind/above the tranny, move it to where it can be wire tied to something if possible or just away from anything that moves, now from the elbow on the strainer (which can be rotated if necessary) measure how a section of hose could run from the elbow to the trans cooler. That is how much hose you would need. Not suggesting it but that radiator hose could be cut back and probably used as the run should be much shorter then how it is routed now.

One suggestion, post that pic on www.correctcraftfan.com, there may be someone there with a pic that would help you envision what I am attempting to describe and there are quite a few who are good with graphics who could probably photoshop your pic to show you how it needs to be done.

Re: the flush flo pro, if you need an explanation how that works send me a PM and I would be happy to help you out.

Edit: If you have a local west marine they may stock that hose, you probably only need a couple 2-3 feet to make it right.

[swc5150]

No one here argued about the hose being different than spec and I get what you're saying about the wire hose, difference is easy to see or touch. I see no restriction in routing though, the pipe goes straight up so I'm not forcing any different direction. If the hose in the original picture is the same hose (don't think it is) then it would have to make a sharp 90 degree turn straight down to run around the lower back of the engine/trans.

If anyone has a picture of a stock/OE setup, I'd appreciate it

With on OEM hose, your strainer should be able to float just above your tranny, eliminating the need for a 90 degree bend (if I follow what you're saying). Your strainer looks like it's being forced into an upright position with the replacement hose. It isn't normally pinned up against the riser exhaust hose. Sorry, I know that's why you're requesting pics... I wish I had one to send you.

[hidnnos]

So my issue with clearance is the hump for the drink holder/net on the back of the motor. It does a tubular turn back there not giving me any room to put the strainer anywhere else. Hoping someone may have a similar boat so they know exactly what I'm dealing with. I've fudged with it a lot, I see no where else it can go, really.?.?.?.

[Quinner]

The other possibility is the intake should be coming up in front of the exhaust adjacent to starter and the elbow on the other side of the strainer should be a stright out, no turn, that would put the strainer just above/near those 3 electrical connections. That is similar to how the Excalibur runs. Does look like the out elbow is different from the in elbow??

Post on CCFan, really think you will get some good feedback, know Chopper, maybe someone else has the GM Pro Ski.

[gtxragtop]

Hope this helps... From my 96 Ski Nautique GT40. As others have noted get rid of the radiator hose. You want the correct hose that is stiff, a pain to work with because it will not collapse. The water pump creates suction to pull in the lake water and this suction can collapse the hose resulting is cooling starvation.