Fake a lake recommendations

[jsta281]

Any recommendations for brand and or style of Fake a lake. The one that my father-in-law had for his inboard outboard was a piece of junk trying to avoid that.

[Quinner]

The Flush Flo Pro style are the best, it can be easily duplicated using parts from your local hardware/plumbing supply store. If you opt the DIY style do some searching here or on CCFan as I remember some past threads documenting them.

Have heard stories of the plunger style falling off from moving around in boat or for whatever reason, the Flush Flo style is a safer bet and can also be used for winterizing much easier.

[jsta281]

If you rig up a connection to garden hose directly to the intake hose is there any concern about the hose being on too high or to much pressure?

[TRBenj]

Id skip the Flush Pro too. Ive heard horror stories of those cracking and failing and causing overheats. Seems like an overly complicated, cheaply made $50+ part to me.

Just make a simple tee in the line prior to the strainer. You can do this with $15 worth of parts from Home Depot. No need to add a valve between the tee and the intake grate (or close the one that is equipped from the factory, if your boat has one already). Just let the excess water pressure bleed out the bottom of the boat. The RWP will pull all it needs.

[jsta281]

That makes sense thanks

[Neverenough]

Like tr says either add a t or pull hose off after strainer and stick the water hose in it. Need someone to help with the water pressure at house but its really low cost or no cost and you know that the pump is getting water.

[jsta281]

If I'm going to splice in a T to that inlet hose to attach a garden hose to anybody know the diameter of that inlet hose? Looks big enough to be possibly some kind of a sprinkler fitting?

[shawndoggy]

what boat? Most modern boats are 1 1/4", but older boats are 1"

I've got the much derided flush pro and its freaking wonderful. I've got the through hull fitting and it's awesome. Screw in the hose to the back of the boat and start the motor. No muss no fuss.

If you do a homebrew one, be sure to close off your raw water seacock when using it. I wouldn't trust the boat to suck all the water in rather than having it drop through the raw water intake under the boat. Maybe I'm crazy, but that would sketch me out.

Bakes has great prices on the full kit with through hull and all.

[AirTool]

If you do a homebrew one, be sure to close off your raw water seacock when using it. I wouldn't trust the boat to suck all the water in rather than having it drop through the raw water intake under the boat. Maybe I'm crazy, but that would sketch me out.

There needs to be some opening to the atmosphere upstream of the engine or there is a risk of over pressuring the system. The third leg (pressure/vacuum relief line) in a 5 gallon bucket is the best setup.

[BrennanK]

I would agree with most everyone here. I didn't go for the 'tee' method though. I like having more control over pressures and what not. This way I can pressure check the system if I need or I can verify that the impeller is working properly by watching it pull water from the bucket. Plus this way all I have to do in the winter is start the boat on water, full the 5 gallon bucket with anti-freeze and then switch over the valves to pull the anti-freeze into the engine instead of the water.


In this one you can see that the hose valve it shut off and the bucket valve is turned on, thus forcing the impeller to pull the water from the bucket. It is a nice way to verify everything is working properly.




There is a nice safety too, if you leave the bucket valve open and you have too much hose pressure the 'unneeded' water takes the path of least resistance to the bucket. So as long as the bucket valve is open you don't risk over pressurizing the system.

[Neverenough]

Cool idea Brennank!! Never gets cold enough for long enough here that I have ever felt like I needed antifreeze. Still a great idea!

[shawndoggy]

There needs to be some opening to the atmosphere upstream of the engine or there is a risk of over pressuring the system. The third leg (pressure/vacuum relief line) in a 5 gallon bucket is the best setup.

What is the risk of overpressuring the system? I've never heard of this before. What happens if the system is over pressured?

[AirTool]

What is the risk of overpressuring the system? I've never heard of this before. What happens if the system is over pressured?

the pressure from your hose is probably 40 to 80 psi .

Well...blowing a gasket, hose, or other part in the system. Your auto has a pressure cap set at 15 or so psi for a reason. I think radiators are usually tested at 30 psi. (2x operating). leaking water out the intake manifold into the oil or cylinder would absolutely suck....especially if you were winterizing. Water in a cylinder all winter would probably cease the engine.

[Nordicron]

I don't see how you could ever build up any pressure? After the raw water pump, water flows right threw the motor.

[Neverenough]

I think the over pressure concern is if you are plumbed to a hose. I always just stick s hose in the raw water pump intake hose and turn on the water about a 1/4 turn. If the water hose is overflowing in the bilge oh well. I'm sure we have guys on here that really over think things. You dont want to pressurize system I get that but I'm thinking through the cooling system and I can't think of any think you could damage. Small gasket on a raw water pump maybe?????? I guess if you had your hose turned on full blast and you had 80 lbs ( that is if your water supply has that much) and you just left it turned on while your engine was off???? You just need enough water to not over heat and tear up an impeller. It's not like your going to revving your engine past 2k anyway. If so your an idiot and do not deserve to own a Nautique. I suggestion that you trade your Nautique for something else.