Trouble pulling prop

[Riverdweller]

I have a 2001 Air Nautiqe and am having a **** of a time trying to remove my prop. I have the C-clamp prop puller and have also sprayed anti-seizure/lubricant. I have tapped/banged on the back of the clamp with a hammer, also hit the head of the screw too. The prop will not budge!!! I have also tried heat but not sure how long to apply it. I'm worried about getting it to hot and melting the strut bushing/bearing. I'm also concerned about hitting the clamp with too much force and damaging the transmission. Anyone have any suggestions on how long to apply heat or any other method for removing the prop? I have never had this prop off since purchasing this boat back in 05. Thanks!!!

[Zach@n3]

Heat and a hammer. I couldn't get mine off when I bought it so I just ran it untill it was to bad to bear the vibration. I eventually used a harmonic style puller on the shaft and took baseball swings at it with a 9lb hammer. It made this weird loud ZZZZZinnnnggg noise and released itself from the taper. There was nothing Irregular about the taper or the shaft.

[Riverdweller]

You must have had your rudder removed to be able to hit it like that. How long did you heat the prop up for?

[AirTool]

You must have had your rudder removed to be able to hit it like that. How long did you heat the prop up for?

Preload the c-clamp puller then heat the hub of the prop only between two blades. I don't have time to elaborate now...but search for posts from me and DanielC on heating a prop.

[Riverdweller]

Thanks!

[nyryan2001]

River- few folks understand how violent it is to take a prop off until they have done it. It amazes me that its 2013 and boats/props are still being done this way. basically you crank down the C clamp tight enough that the clamp starts to bend. then you take a minute to get yourself into a baseball bat swinging position under the boat. you need a HEAVY ball peen hammer and you need a LONG swing radius. it helps if you have hearing protection in because it is so f'n loud banging on the head of that C-clamp under there. you hit it so hard that you are worried that if you miss you might hurt yourself. if you are not strong enough, set it all up and find a strong buddy to bang on it for you. only loosen that main lock nut behind the prop a 1/4" or so.... because banging on the prop that hard when it does release if you have that lock nut all the way off that prop will fo flying off the shaft violently. that nut on there keeps it on the shaft when it is free of the friction from the taper.

[AirTool]

you hit it so hard that you are worried that if you miss you might hurt yourself. if you are not strong enough, set it all up and find a strong buddy to bang on it for you. .

RiverDweller: If you do it this way, you might also be replacing your transmission as well.

[AirTool]

Here are two heat methods:

Expert A: Back your nut off two turns or so. Install your c clamp and load it up pretty good. Take a sharpie and mark the side of the hub between two blades and heat only that area. (mark it so you don't lose track).

I also put a piece of cardboard or thin plywood between prop and bottom of boat....just to give you a second chance if you point the torch at the glass.

I also wrapped the bushing in a wet rag.

If you have a bbq hose that fits your propane tank and torch, it is easier to control the torch than with a bottle on it....and liquid doesn't put the flame out when you turn it on its side. You can also use a tank thats almost empty and doesn't have liquid.

DON'T heat the entire hub or the trick doesn't work. If you heat only one side, it expands and increases the diameter of the hole. If you heat the whole thing, it all expands and could actually get tighter. (follow me?)

It takes surprisingly little heat if it is done right. IIRC, after it popped off (puller on while heating), I couldn't touch the heated area comfortably but I think I could touch the blades, they are basically cooling fins. I had a water spray bottle nearby and sprayed water on the hub and IIRC it didn't sizzle so that would mean less than 212 F. There was absolutely no heat in the shaft.


Expert B: I have also used heat to remove a stubborn propeller.
I squirt some water into the strut bushing, from the upper end, and then wrap a wet rag around the strut, trying to get part of the rag between the propeller shaft, and the strut.
I use an oxyacetylene torch, with a poor man's rosebud tip. (cutting tip, DO NOT PUSH THE OXYGEN LEVER)

Point the heat away from the fiberglass, and heat the hub between the blades. Follow all the other advise about loosening the nut, but leaving it on. Apply pressure with the puller, while heating the prop hub. Usually 10 to 15 seconds of heat applied, and the propeller pops off.

I also have a propane torch, but my thought is the much more intense heat of the oxyacetylene heats the hub up faster, and heat does not have time to transfer to the shaft.

If you have applied a lot of pressure to your puller in the past, it may be sprung. If the end of the clamp that goes between the prop hub, and the strut, is not exactly perpendicular to the prop shaft, it pulls the propeller crooked, and it is a lot harder to pull the prop off.

[Riverdweller]

Thanks Airtool, I read up on your posts you recommended to me yesterday about heating. I'm going to try it tonight after work. I hear ya about doing damage to the trans, that's what I was afraid of doing if I kept wacking at it. I'll post my results tomorrow.

[Graeme V]

Silly question. Why not remove the rudder and then the shaft with the prop? Then press it off. Will that not be way easier with less hammering and brure force?

[s_kelley2000]

Removing the rudder isn't too bad but it is not a quick task to get to it. Depending on the boat you may have to remove the gas tank and/or ballast tanks in order to get it. The bigger issue is that in order to get the shaft out you have to remove the coupler from the transmission side of the shaft and that is a brutal job. It's so bad that I know some people will just cut the shaft, use a press to get the coupler off and then install a new shaft instead of spending all the time and effort to remove the shaft from the coupler while its still in the boat. Air Tool's method is the way to go if you are dealing with a stubborn prop. A little heat on 1 part of the hub is all it takes.

[swc5150]

Silly question. Why not remove the rudder and then the shaft with the prop? Then press it off. Will that not be way easier with less hammering and brure force?

That would be a major undertaking, and a major PITA. Removing the rudder alone would require you to disconnect the steering cable, which isn't always fun to get even get at.

[Riverdweller]

Well no luck!! I put PB Blaster on it, heated it on on side, banged on it and nothing!! I'm at a loss except to just to cut it off. Anyone ever heard of a prop that would not come off? On a side note, I notice I have some play on in the strut. How much play is acceptable? I'm guessing I have about 1/16 to 1/8' in of play. I'm sure the bushing/bearing probably needs to be replaced since it never has and it's a 2001.

[toddrswenson]

I have a 97 Ski and could not get the prop off either after 10 years. I heated, hammered, pulled tried it all. Pulled the boat to a local prop shop and it was off in 10 seconds. The guy hit it three times and said looks like it's going to need some heat. He hit it one more time and it popped right off. Sometimes the pros know what they are doing.

[Zach@n3]

I didn't have the rudder out. Just had it turned slightly to match the arc of my swings and was very careful. Short handle hammer with big weight. Had my legs wrapped around the prop guard for leverage.

I like Air Tool's theroys about the heat transfer and such. That was my next resort but the harmonic puller got the job done. New ACME installed and I was all smiles for the rest of the season.