Prop shaft bushings

**Nautiquehunter** · 04-27-2013, 07:24 AM

The prop shaft should be offset enough to remove the shaft without messing with the rudder.

**Motox811** · 04-27-2013, 07:51 PM

Ill take another look. At first glance they are right in line with each other. I am guessing just removing the shaft is the easiest way to change the bushings?

**crobi2** · 04-27-2013, 10:36 PM

Yes, you have to unbolt the coupler from the transmission or vdrive and the press it off the shaft if it is interference fit (most older ones are until around '03-'04) then slide the shaft out the back.

You want to be ready to redo your packing unless you've got a drip less packing and you get the cutless out by cutting it with a hacksaw. If you have a direct drive you can heat the coupler up to 400-450 in the oven then slip it back on. If you have a vdrive you're better off buying a dual taper shaft.

Then you have to check your alignment. After that you're good to go.

**Motox811** · 05-11-2013, 12:42 AM

So i just tried to pull it apart and the rudder is directly in line with the prop shaft. Now what? Do i need to pull the rudder (which looks very involved) or the strut? What is easier?

**Motox811** · 05-11-2013, 10:54 AM

My next question is on the bearings themselves. Discount Inboard Marine sells the bearings/bushings in a two piece format totaling only 4" in length. Where Nautique parts sells a bearing that is 6" long. Why the difference? It looks like there are four, evenly spaced set screws on my strut indicating there is a 6" bearing in there now. Which bearing set shouldni use? Should i be getting three of the 2" bearings to make one 6"? I have heard the stock bearings are not great so id like to get something better. Any insight would be great and thank you.

**Mamigacz** · 05-11-2013, 12:07 PM

I'm not sure about the second question.

First take all the screws out that hold the strut to the hull. Then disconnect the drive shaft coupling from the transmission coupling. The shaft log has a rubber union on it which is flexable enought to allow some pivoting. After the drive shaft is separated, you should be able to pivot the shaft away from the rudder. Then, slide it off.

I've had the best luck with using a saws all to cut the strut bushing parallel to the bore. You have to be carefull to not cut too much into the strut housing. Once you cut through, you can use a screw driver to pry it loose. I'm sure there other methodes that require special tools, but this worked for me.

**sandslot** · 01-12-2016, 09:12 PM

I have a 2003 SANTE and am replacing the strut bushings. I have the coupler unbolted and the safety loose, but the prop wont slide out the bottom without hitting the rudder square on...I assume I have to remove the rudder, or is there some other trick?

**ski4evr** · 01-13-2016, 06:56 AM

If the prop was removed from the shaft, it was stated above, you could slide the strut past the rudder without removing it. I haven't done this, maybe someone will chime in.

**sandslot** · 01-13-2016, 08:57 AM

The propshaft hits dead on center of the rudder ....I too thought I could slide it by. I'll pull the rudder....

**sandslot** · 01-14-2016, 11:44 AM

I did have to remove the rudder and it was fairly easy....not having removed one, I first loosened the rudder-fiberglass interface which I now have to caulk....does anyone know the best for this? Plain silicon?

**nukemustang** · 01-15-2016, 06:53 AM

You are talking where the brass meets the fiberglass? If so that is what I would use. If there is a "marine" grade, maybe it is worth the few extra bucks, but definitely not something like the 3M 5200 since that would pretty much permanently bond those to the hull. You don't really see significant pressure at those depths (3 feet under water), so it isn't super critical, but you do want enough you wont have a slow leak.

**ski4evr** · 01-15-2016, 07:30 AM

the 3m 4200 is what is typically used at the factory for hull penetrations, 100 percent waterproof, and non hardening. Had to replace one of the shark fins, and still liquid tight and pliable under there after 10 years. Wiped right off with solvent.

**sandslot** · 01-15-2016, 01:55 PM

thank you!

**sandslot** · 01-22-2016, 03:08 PM

Now I have the prop shaft out, the rudderr out and the strut in tact. I removed two 2' strut bushings and will install one 6" strut bushing. Since i had a somewhat dry interface at the rudder and propshaft, I'm planning to push the prop back to the tapered coupler ad reinstall the rudder without changing the packing.

On the attachment at the coupler, I have a tapered shaft and plan to put keyway in and push prop into position and tighten the clamping bolt. QUESTION: do I need to heat the female end of the coupler to accept the full driveshaft, or is there enough tolerance to push it all the way into the coupler cold? My inclination is to heat the coupler and insert the shaft. Comments/thoughts?