Electrical Problems

[brttkrz]

It was the first nice weekend we have had so I got the boat out of storage, cleaned it up, and put the battery in. The battery is charged, and there is voltage in the main wires feeding the dash. Problem is non of the electrical will work. Is there a fuse somewhere under the dash that may have blown? It is in a 95 sport nautique.
Thanks

[AirTool]

check your toggle switch

[brttkrz]

Checked that and It was fine.

[s_kelley2000]

The ignition breaker on the dash is pushed in right?

[brttkrz]

yes

[pSchwade]

grab a volt meter and start checking voltages - start at the battery and work your way to the dash and breakers. remember that grounding can be an issue on a boat (unlike a car) so you need to check the ground at each point as well.

[brttkrz]

found the voltage was reading really low and the battery charger did not charge the battery properly or the battery is completely shot. Hooked up jumper cables to my vehicle and everything worked and the voltages checked out. Thanks for all the ideas.

[mnwakerider]

It was the first nice weekend we have had so I got the boat out of storage, cleaned it up, and put the battery in. The battery is charged, and there is voltage in the main wires feeding the dash. Problem is non of the electrical will work. Is there a fuse somewhere under the dash that may have blown? It is in a 95 sport nautique.
Thanks

Interesting as this happened to me this week also. had the boat fired up the day before in the driveway. Just a quick turnover and make sure it fired. Drove it to the launch and had nothing. Batter is ready a full 27 on the multimeter. Same at the starter.

I am just going to work my way back with the multimeter and see what doesnt read. Any other spots that people have seen issues? A little direction would help when looking...

thanks,
JB

[nms1991]

Mnwakerider do you mean it is showing 27 volts in the system as it should be a 12 volt system and at no point should you power up because most electrical parts in the system can handle more than 18 volts before severe problems occur.

[mnwakerider]

Sorry was reading amps not volts from my notes. (Just had a baby and I attribute that to the lack of sleep).

Doing more work today on it and have 12.3 reading at starter and at the all on/all off/bilge switch. Pulled dash off and Have power at the keypad but that's at 3.x. Is my keypad gone bad? Other thoughts or stuff to check?

Thanks and sorry for the confusion!

[mnwakerider]

Actually just checked my toggle switch and realized that was the culprit. Switched it out do to some airtool recommendations. Getting the power back!!

[mnwakerider]

Now the starter won't go. I can hear the relay when I hit start on the key pad, but I get nothing at the starter. I tried jump leads on the starter between the terminals (worked earlier in the day) and now there is nothing...

Any ideas on something to start looking at?


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[AirTool]

Actually just checked my toggle switch and realized that was the culprit. Switched it out do to some airtool recommendations. Getting the power back!!

Thanks for the plug.

Get your volt meter and check the voltage of the battery from the actual post to post and then check it from clamp/lug to clamp/lug or one at a time move one probe to check - lug to + clamp then + lug to - clamp. Follow me? This checks for dirty or loose clamps. If you more than maybe 0.2 volts different than lug to lug you need to clean and tighten the lugs. I've seen 2 volts difference before with the engine running 14 something across the lugs and battery voltage of 12.3 across the lugs.

Another comment: it is rare for the solenoid on a gm starter to click (if that is the solenoid you are talking about - and not the remote one) and the starter not turn unless the starter is bad or ceased. Is there any way your starter got soaked with water late in the season? I have some suggestions on that but first get a volt meter and check the voltage on the heavy cable feeding the starter it may have 12V all the time or only when the external solenoid is engage I don't know but when you hold down start, 12V should be on the line side of the solenoid (and the starter side if the starter mounted solenoid is working properly). I am not talking about the small diameter wire that energizes the solenoid. Follow me?

Finally, keypad voltage should be low voltage for electronics. Usually 2.x 3.x or 5.x

I'm in a hurry. I hope I typed all the correctly and clearly.

[mnwakerider]

You deserved the plug based on how much I just read in other posts.

The click I am hearing is more reminiscent of a relay than the solenoid. I have not submerged the starter at all. I am pretty sure that I know the sound of a solenoid being stuck, and this is not that sound.

I will check the voltage at the starter to see I there is any loss in line from the battery and report back. Should I be reading the same as the battery at the starter (large terminal post that goes straight to the battery)?

Thanks or the help!

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[AirTool]

The click I am hearing is more reminiscent of a relay than the solenoid. I have not submerged the starter at all. I am pretty sure that I know the sound of a solenoid being stuck, and this is not that sound.

I understand and believe you. The noise is different. But I was thinking more on the lines the solenoid was pulling in properly but the starter is ceased or stuck on a bad spot in the rotor. People often get past the latter by hitting the starter with a hammer. For the ceased starter, I would think the main cable would heat up quickly. But in this case, you would definitely hear the Bendix engage in the flywheel.

I'm not sure what boat you have but I do think there are two solenoids a Ford type remote from the starter then the one on the starter. But I'm not sure about that that's why I mentioned you might not have line voltage at the starter w/o the remote solenoid engaged.

Finally, Yes all the voltages should be close to the same. The drop to the starter is low.

If you think the starter needs more voltage for some reason, you can always jump the boat with a running car to get 14.5 volts. If you do this, BE CAREFUL: Wear safety glasses and make sure you get the poles correct.

So please report back what boat/engine you have.

Thanks,