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Did you confirm that there is spark. I had a similar issue a few weeks back & it was the distributor cap. Engine light on may be a whole different ball game though.
Graeme
That's always been a mystery. Some codes clear themselves when repaired. Your local mechanic probably doesn't have the tool unless he does marine work or uses marine engines in hot rods.
PS - you should follow mrshelly's thread on sputtering to death. He has no fuel in the FCC bowl.
Well he is a marine mechanic so in theory he should have one of these tools?
Did you confirm that there is spark. I had a similar issue a few weeks back & it was the distributor cap. Engine light on may be a whole different ball game though.
Graeme
That's a thought. How would I check to see if there is a spark?
That's a thought. How would I check to see if there is a spark?
Use a timing light or inductive pen you place next to the wire....do not pull a wire and hold it near the block/ground. Start by checking the coil wire....it fires 8 times more than the plugs LOL.
If you're going to start testing, you test for fuel by squirting in some start fluid of venting in some propane. For your own sake, be careful. You can cause a fire or explosion and be mamed or killed.
How's your engine temperature? Check both your gauge and your LCD read out. Can't be sure, but could have a de-rate or kill feature at a software-defined over heat temperature threshold. This happened to me in another brand...just died, but all electrical is fine and a check engine light was on. By the way, same thing happened to my uncle in his other brand when he was idling out and sucked a floating empty ice bag up against his raw water intake...boat was not going fast enough to wash the bag off the intake. Didn't notice it until the engine overheated and was shut down.
How's your engine temperature? Check both your gauge and your LCD read out. Can't be sure, but could have a de-rate or kill feature at a software-defined over heat temperature threshold. This happened to me in another brand...just died, but all electrical is fine and a check engine light was on. By the way, same thing happened to my uncle in his other brand when he was idling out and sucked a floating empty ice bag up against his raw water intake...boat was not going fast enough to wash the bag off the intake. Didn't notice it until the engine overheated and was shut down.
All vitals were good. Engine temp was 160-170. Starting to wonder if my ECM hasn't gone out completely. If the whole ECM were to go out, would there be other symptoms?
I had this exact problem last week and figured it was the fuel pump. Changed the relays just in case and that fixed it. She starts and runs great now...
I had this exact problem last week and figured it was the fuel pump. Changed the relays just in case and that fixed it. She starts and runs great now...
I thought about that. I can hear what I think is the fuel pump when I hit the start button though. At least, I think thats the fuel pump kicking on. I'm not talking about the bilge pump that turns on when you hit the start button once; I'm talking about the little whurr/whine you hear when you hit the start button the second time.
Hahaha whish i would have read this before I stuck my own finger in there! Well not my finger, but I did check for spark and there is none.
Right now i think you getting somewhere. No spark..Do you have fuel pressure at the injector rail? there will be a valve (like the one on a tyre) Push it in when you are cranking and gas should squirt out - mind your eyes!!! Need to decied if it is spark or fuel related.
Cheers
G
Well, we decided to just run the boat down to the PCM dealer. They got the check engine light turned off (it read that some things were wrong but there wasn't), and it turns out that the fuel injector fuse was blown. Probably would've taken me 2 years to trace it to that. Anyways, thanks for all of the help guys.
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