2007 SV-211 Steering Cable replacement

[Nauti-by-Nature]

The steering on my '07 SV-211 seems to take a lot of effort. I bought it used last summer with 500 hrs on it and I don't know if the steering cable has ever been replaced. Does anyone have any tips for replacing the cable or things I should check for before doing so?

[Nauti-by-Nature]

Anyone have any thoughts?

[ski4evr]

Yep, change it! Replaced mine at 500 hrs. Went from two fisted driving to two finger.

[SkiTower]

Did you change it yourself? If so, how hard was it and how long did it take?

[ski4evr]

Yes, Kind of a pain, but doable in a day. Lots of tyraps to cut under helm and beside fuel tank. When pulling old cable, watch rudder end, wife got greasy keeping it of upholstery. Make sure to make some measurements and fix rudder in straight position before removing fastners. My steering wheel was off first time out. Had to get back in and stand on head to adjust cable at rudder.

[Nauti-by-Nature]

Thank ya, sir! Think I may give it a go.....

[Chad52]

My 2008 210 is like that too. Just really hard to steer now. I bought a new cable and have plans to tackle this project soon.

For those that have done this, did you cut the existing cable? Which end did you reattach first? I've examined the rudder connection, so I know what is going on there, but I haven't dis-assembled the helm yet to see how it attaches up there...

[MikeC]

Nauti,
A few things that you will need to do in order to make the job easier.
- remove the seat - this is actually very easy and will allow easier access to the rack under the helm. I also pulled the screws from the circuit breaker panel on the front kick panel under the helm.
- remove the vinyl cover that is the armrest and side cover. To do this you first have to remove the plastic cover from the throttle and the metal cover from the sport shift. The cover over the throttle slides over the throttle after removing the screwed on throttle knob - same goes for the sport shift.
- obviously remove the floor
- if you have the stock hard ballast tanks, remove at least the starboard side tank, that way you can actually reach the cable end.
- Like was stated in a previous post - there are tons of cable ties, about one every 12 to 16 inches and some not so easy to get to.
- After you have finished the replacement, don't worry too much if the steering wheel is not centered - pop the center cap off the steering wheel, remove the bolt holding the steering wheel on and move the steering wheel to the center position. (with the rudder straight mine actually sits at an angle, but when the boat is in motion it sits straight) you can always mark the position of the steering wheel with the rudder straight before you remove the old cable to give yourself a starting point.

I'll be quite honest, changing the steering cable is a bit of a PITA, but you'll be happy when you have the new cable in. As far as time goes, I'd say 4 to 6 hours if it's your first time - most of the time is taken gaining access to the cable and cutting cable ties.

Good luck

[Nauti-by-Nature]

Thanks, MikeC....great write-up!

[Mikeski]

Replaced the cable in my 2005 211 with 550 hours at the beginning of last summer, it probably should have been replaced a year earlier. It was a tough job for only one reason, the factory had zip tied the cable in before installing the center ballast tank. It was a complete bear to remove and trashed my arms in the process as I worked at it with my arms between the ballast tank and floorboards. Removing the rear ballast tank to gain access is not that much fun either but it's not too bad. I have had that ballast tank out a few times by now.

The factory 19.5' cable is a bit tight from a length standpoint. I installed the 20' TFXtreme cable (model #SSC15420) and it allows a slight larger radius loop at the helm. The combination of the larger loop and better cable makes the boat steer much easier than it did on day 1 when I first bought the boat. This cable can also be sourced for cheaper: http://www.boatersland.com/telssc154...FcR_QgodvlcA3g
I actually just ordered another one for my 1998 Ski Nautique, looking forward to that one as it will be a breeze compared to the 211 install.

[sodbuster88]

Sorry if I missed this above...do you pull it out the rear...or out the front? Does it make a difference?

[ski4evr]

If I remember correctly, once it is complete loose at all points, with the floor removed, pulled it out from the middle. The rack for the steering wheel end is fixed to the cable, and the movable tube for the rudder end are both easier to feed in from the open floor, if I'm remembering correctly. Its been 2 years, and sometimes details get fuzzy.

[charlesml3]

My steering wheel was off first time out. Had to get back in and stand on head to adjust cable at rudder.

You did that the hard way. All you needed to do is take the steering wheel off and recenter it there. The rack behind the steering wheel defines the left and right limits and it's completely independent of the steering wheel itself.

[ski4evr]

You did that the hard way. All you needed to do is take the steering wheel off and recenter it there. The rack behind the steering wheel defines the left and right limits and it's completely independent of the steering wheel itself.

yep, that was the problem, there were more turns available to the left than the right when I hooked it up. doesn't help to center up the wheel when it only turns to the right. the rack was centered up, and the rudder wasn't, that was the problem.

[charlesml3]

Gotcha, but I just don't understand how that got out of adjustment. If the tang on the replacement cable was the same length no adjustment of the throw should have been necessary.

-Charles