Temperature/Overheating Problems?

[jrivera1262]

did you check the hose that feeds your strainer from the inlet at the bottom of the hull? make sure ALL the hose clamps are good and tight especially that one! If the hose is loose and your not circulating enough water it will cause you to overheat. Another thing, did you put all the hoses back to their respective connections? Silly question but you never know. Hope you figure it out.

[H2O]

Be certain that the pump is put on right-side up. If it is upside down you will run hot. Do not assume is was on correctly before taking it off. Look in the manual to get it right.

[pgowdy13]

did you check the hose that feeds your strainer from the inlet at the bottom of the hull? make sure ALL the hose clamps are good and tight especially that one! If the hose is loose and your not circulating enough water it will cause you to overheat. Another thing, did you put all the hoses back to their respective connections? Silly question but you never know. Hope you figure it out.

I did not specifically check that hose. I will make a not to do that the next time I'm out working on it. I DEFINITELY put all the hoses back to their correct connections though .

In terms of the orientation of the Water Pump, I'm nearly certain it's the correct way. However, I will consult the manual and report back. I feel as if the manual doesn't have anything about the orientation of the water pump. I read it from front to back a few weeks ago, and it wasn't super helpful.

[pgowdy13]

Can anyone confirm that the impeller looks correct from those pictures?

[pgowdy13]

Gentlemen,

I took the boat for a spin this evening with my gf, and it worked beautifully! Regulated at a perfect 160, even after hammering on it at 4200rpm for a couple minutes with a water temperature of close to 80 degrees.

I have one question before we close this thread though.

My girlfriend and I decided to float after running the boat for a little while, and after twenty or so minutes of floating, we started the boat back up and the temperature was at 180. Now I sat and watched the temperature gauge, and it wasn't really dropping, but as soon as i started accelerating and cruising, I watched it dip down to 160 in about 10 or so seconds. My question is... is it normal for the boat temperature to be higher after you stop the boat for awhile? Is this the residual heat and the water isn't flowing through to cool it? Thanks so much for all your help guys. I have some more questions on boat maintenance, but I'll start another thread. Thanks again!

[jbach]

It sounds like its sucking air to me. The higher RPM will suck more water, but it should keep a fairly consistent temperature and should cool, even at idle. I would go through every single hose clamp on that boat with a 5/16 nut driver, a flat head screwdriver cannot be substituted for that job.

[areford]

I have a 93 sport as well and you appear to still be running hotter than normal. With the 143 degree thermostat you should see that temp reached at some point, or at least between 143 - 150. When it sits the temp may show 180 but as soon as it brings in cool water it should immediately drop. Make sure you belt isn't stretched and needing replacement. The mentioned air leaks could be caused by old hoses as well and may just need to be replaced, possibly including a new strainer if you can't get it apart. You can test at home if you use a fake a lake and should be able to sit at 143 during testing.

[TRBenj]

The 2 posts above me are incorrect.

It is perfectly normal for the engine to heat up after shutting down. The heat of the engine will continue to warm up the water inside the block after the water stops circulating. After restarting, it will take a few seconds for the hot water to exit and be replaced with cooler water.

I have owned and worked on MANY PCM Fords, and I have never seen one that regulates temperature below 150 deg with the proper 143 thermostat. Nearly all of them sit within a few degrees of 160. A slight temp swing (10-20 deg) after a hard run and return to idle is fairly normal... but a cooling system with newer hoses and properly adjusted clamps will see less extreme swings than others.

[areford]

I can only report on how mine has worked for the last 5 years. During periods of active cruising mine never exceeds 160. As soon as I return to idle it cools back down to 150 or slightly below. I can run it in the driveway at 143 or slightly above all day long, I can rev it and get it up to 160 and then it immediate cools back down.

[pgowdy13]

The 2 posts above me are incorrect.

It is perfectly normal for the engine to heat up after shutting down. The heat of the engine will continue to warm up the water inside the block after the water stops circulating. After restarting, it will take a few seconds for the hot water to exit and be replaced with cooler water.

I have owned and worked on MANY PCM Fords, and I have never seen one that regulates temperature below 150 deg with the proper 143 thermostat. Nearly all of them sit within a few degrees of 160. A slight temp swing (10-20 deg) after a hard run and return to idle is fairly normal... but a cooling system with newer hoses and properly adjusted clamps will see less extreme swings than others.

So I'm all good to go!? This is great news. Thanks again guys.

[areford]

Safe boating!

[NickJV1]

TRBenji, since you are being so helpful and seem very knowledgeable, hope you can help us as well. This is the second season now, two mechanics later and no one can figure it out. We have a PCM ZR 409 that overheats when we take it over 3500 RPMS, as well as when it idles. I have been running the heater to help keep it cool. It usually runs right around 170 - 175 but will start to overheat right around 195 - 200. I've had to put anti-freeze in it each day we take it out so it must be leaking somewhere, but cannot find where. I can run it all day under 3500 RPM's and it won't overheat. Very frustrating.

[NickJV1]

Youre likely to see a voltage drop to the dash even with a properly tightened belt. 80's and early 90's Correct Crafts were notorious for undersized wiring to the dash, compounded by old, dirty connections, and youre only likely to see 12v or so on the gauge (when it should be 14+). While not ideal, nothing is likely awry.

The alt and RWP also use separate belts on a PCM Ford, so even if you were seeing a low voltage condition due to belt slippage, it doesnt tell you diddly about the RWP.

You need to tell us a bit more about the nature of your overheat if you want us to narrow down where to look. Try this for us:
1. What temperature does the engine attempt to regulate to? 160? 180? Something else?
2. If you warm up the boat and then idle around for an extended period (5+ minutes), what happens to the temp?
3. If you maintain speed for an extended period (several minutes at 25-35mph), what happens to the temp?
4. If you come off plane and return to idle after performing #2, what happens to the temp?

Answer those questions for us and we can give you a pretty short list as to what is wrong.

Sorry for posting this again, but had to get the original quote in - TRBenji, since you are being so helpful and seem very knowledgeable, hope you can help us as well. This is the second season now, two mechanics later and no one can figure it out. We have a PCM ZR 409 that overheats when we take it over 3500 RPMS, as well as when it idles. I have been running the heater to help keep it cool. It usually runs right around 170 - 175 but will start to overheat right around 195 - 200. I've had to put anti-freeze in it each day we take it out so it must be leaking somewhere, but cannot find where. I can run it all day under 3500 RPM's and it won't overheat. Very frustrating.