Damaged prop - testing and options?

[mikeki]

The prop on my boat got damaged and wondering what my options are. I haven't a chance to take the boat out and check vibrations, etc., but am also a little leery of doing it. I'm new to inboards / v-drives so I'm not sure how tolerant they are, given I know vibrations are very bad. Some pictures below.

[jonsquatch]

You'll feel that. Not sure about the waviness on the trailing edge but the one curled under corner is about what my prop looked like when I dinged it and you would have thought the whole thing was wadded up. I wouldn't operate that, and being in season it might take a bit to get it fixed. You might be lucky enough to have a whole slew of prop repair places nearby so you could pull it and swing it by one, I had to mail mine off for repair. If thats the case maybe order one to replace it and one of those ACME weekend saver kits so you have the tools to replace it then when you get the original back you can carry it with you for emergencies. If you have been thinking about trying a different prop now might be a good time. Check out the sticky on sight sponsors Delta Propeller Company had good discounts that made it the cheapest for my prop when last I looked.

[Beach-TJ]

I believe your choices are to have the prop refurbished, or buy a new one. That prop doesn't look to be in bad shape, so I would look into refurbishing it as they can refurbish props in very bad shape. I wouldn't operate the boat much with the prop the way it is though, as the vibrations are transfered directly up the prop shaft to the transmission.

A good shop can refurbish that prop and put it back to factory specs. I had mine done this past winter, around here it cost in the $150 to $175 range. Took them a couple of days, but we have multiple shops in the area capable of doing the work. If you have to send it off to them, or there busy due to being in season, who knows how long it will take.

You could also purchase a new one, which will run you around 3 to 4 times that amount.

[charlesml3]

A couple of items:

- That prop is completely repairable. I've sent props off that looked WAY worse than that one.

- You need a spare prop. I don't care how good a driver you are or how careful you are, sooner or later you're going to hit something. With a spare you can be back on the water in the time it takes to swap it.

Recommendations:

- Buy a spare prop right away. They aren't cheap. Could be anywhere from $450-$650 depending on which boat you have.

- Get a prop puller kit. They aren't expensive and it's one of those tools you rarely use, but indispensable when you need it.

- Send that prop off for repair. There are lots of prop shops out there but I've settled on this one over the years: http://www.myinternetpartner.com/~bobbysol/ He isn't the cheapest, but I can send him a prop on Monday morning and get it back Friday afternoon. That goes a long way with me.

-Charles

[TxJole]

Just had one fixed worst then that, $125.00 dropped off Monday 9am picked up Tuesday at noon. Got lucky he had a bunch of brass props he was doing and mine made it in time.

[mikeki]

Thank you everyone.

Is it possible to pull the prop while the boat is on the lift in the lake? I would be standing in about 5 feet of water with the boat above me out of the water. The pictures posted are taken from the dock with the boat out of the water on the lift.

I've never used a prop pulling tool, so do know the drill.

Off to research props and the tool.

Thanks again.

[mikeki]

After digging through manuals, I couldn't find any reference to the prop that came with the boat. After some research it looks like these are the ACME options:

# Diam Pitch
1248 13.50 16.000 0.105 cup 4 1 1/8" RH
1578 13.50 14.250 0.105 cup 4 1 1/8" RH
1234 14.50 14.250 0.105 cup 4 1 1/8" RH

I really do two things with the boat. Wakeboard/Surf and putt around at night yacking with friends. Sometimes there are a lot of people on the boat for wakeboarding. I don't really care about top end speed. I'm leaning towards the 1578.

Given the lack of hard information I've been able find, I'm a little nervous just buying one. Thoughts?

[Woody_tobius_jr]

If you shoot the guys at delta or acme an email with your info, they can suggest a prop that will fit your needs

[prairiethunder]

that prop will vibrate as mentioned.... i would consider buying a new prop.... and keeping the old re-furbed as a spare. that's what i did. only i haven't re furbed the old one. upgraded to a acme 422 (preferred for sn). I know the lake and if i ding it i deserve a few days off. I took my prop off on the trailer and I wish it was 5 ft higher. in water shouldn't be a problem and assuming a good lift will handle the leverage needed to get the prop to release. if you do a search here or correct craft .com there are good instructions on how to do it. prop puller (wood block & hammer & presto. (keep the castle nut on until it pops free. prop puller = c clamp with a cut out for the drive shaft.

[charlesml3]

Is it possible to pull the prop while the boat is on the lift in the lake?

Of course. I've pulled them with the boat on the lift and me sitting in a tube. Get's a bit tricky when you need to throw your weight into it and the tube wants to move but it's completely doable.

assuming a good lift will handle the leverage needed to get the prop to release.

That's just absurd. I'm pretty sure if you can climb in the boat while it's on the lift without it collapsing then torquing down on a prop nut won't be a problem.

I couldn't find any reference to the prop that came with the boat.

Pull the old prop off. The size, pitch and rotation will be stamped on the hub.

[TxJole]

that prop will vibrate as mentioned.... i would consider buying a new prop.... and keeping the old re-furbed as a spare. that's what i did. only i haven't re furbed the old one. upgraded to a acme 422 (preferred for sn). I know the lake and if i ding it i deserve a few days off. I took my prop off on the trailer and I wish it was 5 ft higher. in water shouldn't be a problem and assuming a good lift will handle the leverage needed to get the prop to release. if you do a search here or correct craft .com there are good instructions on how to do it. prop puller (wood block & hammer & presto. (keep the castle nut on until it pops free. prop puller = c clamp with a cut out for the drive shaft.

im opposite, I try to keep a new one as back up. That way if you ding a prop u can stick a new one on to make sure u have no shaft damage.

[Quinner]

Your local prop shop or dealer may have a puller they will lend you.

Done it on a lift several times, not a problem. Some props will pop right off while others may be a real problem. If it fights you sometimes just leaving the puller on there torqued will work, check back periodically and tighten more if possible. If you decide hammering is necessary do not hit the prop, hit the puller.

A proper install includes using lapping compound, good info on that at www.correctcraftfan.com or just google it.

[jonsquatch]

After digging through manuals, I couldn't find any reference to the prop that came with the boat. After some research it looks like these are the ACME options:

# Diam Pitch
1248 13.50 16.000 0.105 cup 4 1 1/8" RH
1578 13.50 14.250 0.105 cup 4 1 1/8" RH
1234 14.50 14.250 0.105 cup 4 1 1/8" RH

I really do two things with the boat. Wakeboard/Surf and putt around at night yacking with friends. Sometimes there are a lot of people on the boat for wakeboarding. I don't really care about top end speed. I'm leaning towards the 1578.

Given the lack of hard information I've been able find, I'm a little nervous just buying one. Thoughts?

Mine is the left hand rotation but I have the 1579 (same specs opposite rotation as the 1578) and it makes a great compromise and pulls well. The 1234 might be a bit too big on the left hand rotation version there is a risk of burning the gell coat but I hear it pulls like crazy. I don't care what the affect on top speed is because I don't ever see top speed, but if you do then don't go for the biggest pulling prop.

Pull the old prop off. The size, pitch and rotation will be stamped on the hub.

You should be able to check what you have right now without pulling it, if you look straight ahead at the nut the prop number and rotation should be visible. I would base my decision based on what you have now not just based on what is available as an aside the book calls for a 645 on my boat but it came with the 1579 I was trying to decide if I wanted to upgrade to a 1579, once I checked what I had I decided to go ahead and stick with that, but if I would have ordered the 645 I would have decreased my performance. Even if you call and order a new prop you want to be able to tell them what you have how and how well it works so they can make a suggestion.

If you can stand comfortably in the water (I am 6'4" so for me that would be better than laying under the boat on the trailer which is what I had to do) and reach it then you're good. You can pull the cotter pin and back the nut off almost all the way then slip the tool in and when it pops free it won't fall off (or the key which can fall out once the prop is free so be careful not to lose it in the water). I have seen people hammer the props off without a tool with soft dead blow (or brass) hammers but I wouldn't try it.

There are 2 tools a harmonic one that you basically sip over the end of the shaft and hammer and the vibration causes the prop to break free, and a clamp based tool that you tighten and it pops off. If you get the weekend saver kit you get a new nut key, and cotter pin, as well as the puller and an adjustable wrench and pliers in a padded case that can hold your spare prop. If you buy a second cotter pin and your prop along with that kit when it comes in you can be back on the water shortly with a full kit to be able to switch it out in the future. If you can get your prop fixed locally and be back on the water sooner you just need at minimum a new cotter pin and either borrow a tool or hammer it off.

[mikeki]

I checked the prop and was surprised to find a 644 on it. Basically a higher speed prop even though I thought boat performed fine with it. That said, it sounds like I'll get a 1578, have the 644 repaired and if I don't like the 1578 it will become the backup.

[prairiethunder]

im opposite, I try to keep a new one as back up. That way if you ding a prop u can stick a new one on to make sure u have no shaft damage.

Lol, that's a really good idea. I bout my boat with a dinged prop... Bought replacement and put it on. Still intend to repair the old as a spare.... No longer lake jumping so fairly comfortable with trouble spots.

Sorry for thread hijack. but, a friend has a '96 sport is there a good prop for us to share as a spare. will the 422 work?