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Need some help folks...Where is the CKS on the Excalibur 330 and what is the spec in ohms?
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Peace.. -
Ok...I think I found it...item #31 on page 8 in the PCM parts manual. This is on the front cover..thought it would be on the fly wheel housing. Now just need the spec...???
http://www.pleasurecraft.com/manuals/L510013-07.pdfPeace.. -
Sod man....are you sure you can check them that way? ...and rarely do they go out.
Maybe go to the auto parts store and measure the ohms on a similar one....like 98 chevy pickup w/5.7R engine.
Does your engine run at all? or just crank?Comment
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Trying to help a buddy. Dealer replaced it last week and fixed the problem...but then the boat died in mid pull again today. My thought is that it is probably not the CKS but connections or ground. So I was going to check the CKS impedance to rule it out and then work my way back up through the harness. By the way, the dealer also replaced fuel pump, FCC filter, rotor, plugs and found no problem with relays/CBs/fuses. Got any other ideas?Originally posted by AirTool View PostPeace..Comment
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Toggle switch....but I need more symptoms that died mid pull.
On the autos, sometimes the CPS connection needs cleaning...especially if the front seal leaks.
I will say that the engine will not fire at all w/o CPS but it should throw a code.Comment
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Airtool...apparently the boat runs good and then out of the blue, engine dies...both times were running around 2-2500 rpm (20-25mph..wakeboard speed). It cranks fine but won't fire. Check Engine light comes on and then blinks indicating a code has been logged. I have not been on the boat yet..so hoping it would be as simple as a connection somewhere. Was turned on to the CPS because the dealer was told by PCM to replace the first times after two days of troubleshooting. I figured that because it is a hall effect, it likely has never been the problem...especially since it now has happened twice. However, I was going to try and check it anyway. Also, the dealer found low fuel pressure on their check and replaced the pump...but that didn't fix the problem. They then dug into the ignition system...that's when they contacted PCM. Incidentally, they are still trying to figure it out remotely. I may be getting in the way on this...but feel bad for the fella and want to help out as much as I can.Peace..Comment
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It sounds like an ignition module...but I don't think that throws a code.
What code does it throw?
When does it fire again?....after cooling?Comment
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That's what i thought before he took it to the dealer the last time (ignition module)... but figured the dealer would figure it out pretty quick. Don't know the code...I'll see if I can get it. Don't think he ever got it to fire after it died the first time...and the dealer didn't get it to fire either until they replaced the CPS. Now the same thing has happened again. I will try to go look at it this weekend.Peace..Comment
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AirTool,
This is my boat Sod Man is helping out with (as always). Both times I was out on the water the boat ran great for about 3 hours and then suddenly the engine would die mid pull. The check engine light comes on and flashes twice I believe. The engine will crank over but not fire. The last time I had it at the dealer they replaced the fuel pump, FCC filter, distributor rotor, spark plugs, and CPS. They also tried coil pack but that didn't seem to be the issue so they put the old one back on. Like Sod man said they were stumped and working with PCM before they tried the CPS and thought that fixed the problem. It's an hour and a half drive back to the dealer so I was hoping there are some things I can try from home. So far I'm 2 for 2 on getting towed back to the dock in the month of July and quite honestly feeling frustrated.....2007 SV-211 TEComment
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NxN,
Step 1 is you need a new dealer. WTH they throw all those parts at it for? Do they not have any diagnostic skills at all? Do they not have a diacom (sp)? I don't get it. That is ridiculous. And spark plugs? come on! They would have been better off to change the cap.
I don't know the significance of the flashing check engine light. IIRC the check engine light always comes on when the engine dies. It's part of the program. Here is a simple list of things I would want to know if I was responsible for fixing it.
1. Does the "see dealer" come on on the LCD screen?
2. Does the engine run again after it cools off?
3. When cranking, is there "spark" at the coil and plug wires? ....is it perfectly steady like a timed strobe?
4. What is the pressure at the fuel rail?
5. When cranking, does a NOID light attached to an injector flash?
6. If the NOID light flashes, will the engine run on a blast of starting fluid?
7. Was the kill switch and circuit triple checked? opening in the kill circuit allows cranking w/o firing.
8. Have they pulled off the ignition module and tested it at the auto parts store? Try to find one with a tester that has a heater....to replicate a heat induced failure.
I'm kind of pi55ed off today for other reasons. But your dealer needs to quit throwing parts at it and use their tools and brains to figure it out. If they don't have any tools or brains, you need to find somebody else to look at it. Find a non-CC dealer that is PCM or find a marina that has a good tech. A good GM auto guy could also figure this out....the only gray area for an auto guy is the gateway in the boat and he won't have a diacomm to read the ECM. Everything else is simple GM stuff. Just don't let an auto guy climb into your boat with his greasy shoes and clothes on.
I'm on assignment and need to get back to work but maybe post some more details and we can try to work through it.Last edited by AirTool; 07-21-2013, 03:10 PM.Comment
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AirTool,
Thanks for your help. Sod man and I are going to try some things this week and see if we can get this figured out. Hopefully we'll have an update for you by the end of the week.2007 SV-211 TEComment
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Please keep this updated. I experienced the exact same thing on my 07 sv211 this weekend. I have the ZR6 motor, so that indicates to me it may be in a wiring harness somewhere, or just a very strange coincidence.Comment
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Check this website out, it explains the MEFI system well. There is a link towards the bottom for the MEFI manual that will tell you how to diagnoseand test the sensors. Most of those you have to check voltages not ohms. First thing I would do would be to check the grounds and make sure it's getting fuel. Pop the schrader valve on the fuel rail and see if it has pressure, then start at the battery and work your way back to the control module. The website has instructions on how to put it in test mode, or get a code reader and get the codes. Don't waste your time checking sensors until you pull the codes, the MEFI should tell you what's out of spec. The manual has a step by step diagnostics to follow. http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/MEFI/Comment
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Note: another gremlin is the fuel pump relay. There are two relays....one for each pump.
http://www.nautiqueparts.com/relaypc...dfuelpump.aspxComment
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