New Dimension Tower Installation

[s_kelley2000]

I think I have finally given up on constantly repairing and shoring up my gen 1 FCT and I am ready to put a sturdier tower on my boat. I toyed with putting a two point FCT3 on there but I think I have decided to go with the NDT since it's a $1,000 to 1,500 cheaper and I have the option to reuse my current bimini, speakers, racks and mirror with the NDT.

I am looking for some tips or insight from anybody that has installed an NDT on their boat, especially 95-2001 Super Sport or Super Air. Do they come with backing plates or do you have to beef up under the gunale before mounting? If anybody has replaced a gen-1 FCT with an NDT I would love to know if the front feet line up close enough to cover the old screw holes? I know I will have to repair the holes for the rear legs but I am hoping I won't need to do the front as well. Also what are people using for board racks with their NDTs?

[nyryan2001]

Yep, I Installed one on my Yamaha below in 2007 when I lived in TN. I drove over to Maryville... its a small family run company but top notch in quality and service IMO. Their towers cost a little more, but well worth it compared to all the $999 wiggly garbage towers you see on the internet. they resuly in gel crack for certain.

I am looking for some tips or insight from anybody that has installed an NDT on their boat, Do they come with backing plates or do you have to beef up under the gunale before mounting? Yes they come with them, mine were aluminum. Goal is to distribute the load over the largest area possible. those were cushioned with a f'n hard epoxy to fill the void between the countoured hull and the backing plates.

Also what are people using for board racks with their NDTs? You can use whaever you want.... Samson? has these spinner racks that folks are really liking. I reccomend you think about your bimini and how you plan to work that in..... racks are easy...bimini and speakers can be tough to work in and get good placement on the hull where you want it.

[rbalan]

Mine came with backing plates and fiberglass filler as well (2000 dd Air). Love the tower, not a big fan of their board racks. I would call and ask ND about covering up old holes from 1st gen towers.

[Nautiquehunter]

I installed one on my Supra . I over killed the installation because of fear of stress cracking. I cut 3/4'' plywood blocking as big as I could get under the gunnels . I covered them with fiberglass and epoxied them to the underside of the gunnels at the tower feet locations . The backing plates they give you are 1/8'' aluminum I went bigger with 1/4'' plate. So far 5 years NO stress cracks . I have the ND board racks.

measure measure and then measure again


bigger thicker backing plates


Make sure you cut back the gel around the holes

[nyryan2001]

^^^ the way he beveled and chamfered those holes is key. If your bolts that go thru touch gel you are in danger of stress cracks. bolts should be a very TIGHT fit thru the holes. The way they are beveled there, the bolts will never touch the gel, load bearing is distributed on the FG only, and use a TORQUE WRENCH set to their recc exact specs so you dont overtighten and cause compression cracks on the gel when you tighten everything down. A lot of folks get everything right but this last part, and when they put a huge 3/4" wrench on that lock nut they over tighten and grack gel. Not necessary.

Also if you look at his, 3 mounting points are much stronger than 2. The fewer joints the better, the tower joints is where tower flex (BAD) comes from.

if you look, he mounted them on smaller flat areas of FG... the larger and more surface area, the more flex the FG has under extreme loads. near corners, bends and small spances of FG is good, the FG is stronger there in the small areas.

The hardest part for me was getting the bimini to work well and fold with the tower that also needed to fold to get into a garage( you gotta think this thru also so it doenst bind on the windshied or elsewhere), and be able to hang speakers and not bump my head.

[s_kelley2000]

Thanks guys, this is all great info, keep it coming. I know there was discussion of it recently in another thread but what is the best method for chamfering the holes? Should I get a good step down bit and run it in reverse?

I am waiting for NDT to get back to me but there might be a 3 week lead time on the tower so I may band aid my current tower one last time and then tackle the swap over the winter so I can really take my time.

I am leaning towards powder coating it black to match the windshield frame but I always love the way white towers look. I also think it might look good if I could match the tan top stripe. The other option is to leave it polished but I think that looks best when the windshield frame is also polished. I will probably go black but I would be interested in hearing feedback on those 4 options. Here is a pic of my boat:

[Nautiquehunter]

I used a countersink bit at slow speed.

[s_kelley2000]

I used a countersink bit at slow speed.

In reverse right?

[jbach]

i have the newer FCT gen II on my 99 SAN. if the ND is the same, the front legs of the ND mount where the old tower's front legs are currently. the rear will be further back. just cut the old mount out to 2 7/8" or 3" and add 2 more cup holders. depends on which ones you get.

[nyryan2001]

s_Kelly-

Talk to the owner at ND about the drilling technique and bit selection... I think they might even include the exact bit you need, cant remember. Follow their instructions to the letter, they are def a leader in afetrmarket tower installs being done right.

[crc203]

I just did this a few months ago. There were great instruction included, but no drill bits. I think it requires a 1/4 bit and 1/2 countersink. Drill a pilot hole, then countersink then drill the final hole.

[s_kelley2000]

I started my install last night and so far everything is going very smoothly! Wow they pack those things up well for shipping, it took me close to an hour to get all the plastic wrap, tape, foam and corrugated tube off of it. I was going slow to make sure I didn't accidentally scratch the powder coat with my utility knife but it was protected amazingly well during shipping.

We got the original gen 1 FCT off the boat and wow it looks so naked without a tower (I will post before, during and after pics when I finish). We measured a million times and got everything where it needed to be and marked out the holes and then measured one last time before we drilled the pilot holes. Put the tower back on and measured again to make sure everything lined up and it did. At that point we decided to call it a night and finish in the light of day tomorrow.