Which fat sacs do I want if I remove the factory ballast in my 2000 SAN?

[SoldTheBayliner]

Looking at Fly High Pro X Series sacs... Will the standard "Fat Sac" 750's fill the rear lockers with the factory tanks removed, or do I want the "V Drive Jumbo Surf Sacs"? Can't see wanting more than 750 in each corner, but I want to make the most of the space... The Fat Sac dimensions are 20x20x50, and the Surf Sacs are 24x24x50.

[Prairiedawg]

Search around the threads, I think when guys remove the hard tanks they put 1100's in the back corners, I opted for the 750's piggy backed on top of the factory tanks in my 210, and the wave makes people's jaw drop!

[bharris6]

I dont think 1100's will fit in your back lockers. I would say 750s will fill. Have you checked wakemakers?

[Chexi]

For a 2000, 750s. Even if the 1100s would fit, which I doubt they could fit full, you don't need them. with 2x 750s in the rear, you are (a) going to need bow and center weight (60:40 ratio back to front is ideal for wakeboarding), (b) are probably going to need a high torque prop to plane out in any reasonable amount of time, and (c) will have enough wake to turn the bravest man into a cowering little boy. The only reason most mortals would want 750s over 400s is for surfing, and even then you need a lot more weight in the nose to get a good surf wave. 1100s are way overkill in my opinion. You won't fill them, and then it will be harder to get a consistent wave, because it is easy to know when a bag is full... it's another thing to know when it 78.34753% full.

[SoldTheBayliner]

Good input, thanks... I did just put on a new Acme 1578 prop, which is sort of what opened up the door to doing some "real" ballast. When I have been able to load up enough to get a good surf wave with the old OJ prop, it was a struggle for the engine. The boat has the Apex motor, and now the 1578 prop, and it pulls like mad.

I do have another 550 sac that I was thinking I'd use in the bow if I needed it for surfing. And yes, surfing is the major motivation for doing more ballast.

Wakemakers does say that the 750 will fit, but it doesn't say that the 1100's won't.
They also have a kit: http://www.wakemakers.com/99-02-naut...t-upgrade.html ...which looks like the way to go. I'm assuming this just ties into my existing pump/vent/overflow situation...so remove the hard tanks and plumb in the sacs with this kit to the existing fill/vent/overflow lines, and done? I do like the idea of keeping the fill/drain buttons on the dash, but the existing vent system makes it impossible to just fill one tank... no matter what I do with the vents, one overflow starts flowing, and then the other one is only 30 seconds or so behind. Or with the sacs to I eliminate the vent lines altogether? I was thinking if I kept the existing pumps and fill lines I'd put a ball valve at each sac to isolate them for just filling one side. Is that what most people do?

The difference in size is pretty small, I'm just wondering if having the larger sac would be worth it.

[Miljack]

You can search here, plenty of people have done the modification you're asking about. The stock ballast system is not very good in the early boats, those vent "valves" and then the later boats had the "TH" valves that were problematic. If you keep the stock system, you'll want to add ball valves in the fill lines line you can choose which sack will fill.
My '99 had one fill pump, and an empty pump with 3/4" lines which on a 750 bag will take a LONG time to fill, just my $0.02...

[seth]

Missed you at Almanor. We left in the morning on the 10th. Wish we could have met up so you could check out my ballast system. Your not going to be able to get anything bigger than a full 750 in there. They are pretty much the exact size as the rear locker.

[Chexi]

Redo the system and scrap the vent valves. You can use aerator pumps or ballast puppies, but either way, I'd yank the hard tanks and put in 750s. There are plenty of how to posts on here, and wakemakers can walk you through the process.

With my 2000 SAN, I yanked the hard tanks, drilled 3 x 3/4" holes in the boat, added thru-hulls and ball valves, plumbed in a pair of 750s and a seat sac in the belly, used 3x Johnson ballast puppies, and installed the switches in the empty carbon fiber area of the throttle pad. I have a fuse panel under the rear seat (off to the side) for the pumps. I then added in another line with quick connects that runs to a Y garden hose splitter (with individual shut-off valves), with one of the lines running to the bow and the other to my port side gunnel. I can disconnect either of my 750s (whichever is non-surf side) and tie in this new line to the ballas puppy for that off-side 750. I can then use that pump to fill my bow sac and an in-cabin side sac (if needed) for surfing. I have enough extra length in this line to move the gunnel line to the other side if I ever switch surf sides (which I don't). I only need the gunnel weight if I have no one else on the boat. It's hard to explain, but it is a sweet setup. Of course, since I started foiling over a year ago, I think I've only surfed like once.

The only thing I would change about my entire system is that I would have mounted my pumps differently so that opening them up for changing impellers would be easier. 2 of my pumps are oriented in a way where it is really hard to get to the impeller. With the hard water here in Austin, my pumps tend to freeze up, as I don't use them often, and blow the fuse (one reason for going with aerator pumps I guess). Fortunately, I can re-orient the 2 right-side up pumps to up-side down pretty easily, which I guess I will do this weekend.

I can take some pictures of the setup this weekend if you want.

[s_kelley2000]

As others have said, 750s are going to be perfect. 1100s would fit vertically but they are too wide for old school 210s I think. 750s fit pretty perfectly and leave you enough room for vests and ropes on top when full.