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What do you mean by "signs point to the gateway"? How have you tested your gauges?
I have a fuel gauge on my SV211 that is flakey, but I can tell that the sender is working and the gateway box *should* be ok, because the HrL calculation and Lo Fuel warning still work. The gauge works every couple of times, so it is either a connection, or the gauge itself. Typically, since these gauges are in series, if one gauge connection is completely gone, they all go, but not the case with mine.
So, when your gauge dies, do they all die in series? You can tell easier by turning on the running lights and either all the gauges will be out or only one. At least that is the info I have been given in the past.
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Anyone know what type of serial communications they use? Does anyone know what wires are used for this communications? Does anyone know where I can get a schematic of the dash, specifically the instruments?
If it is the same communications from the engine to, and including the dash, my guess would be either J1979, or J1939 CAN communications. I have not tested, or researched this communications, but I do have the same issues on my 2005 SANTE. I have seen the volt meter, not work, then the next time the volt meter worked, and the oil pressure gauge did not work. I did verify that I had good oil pressure by stepping through the modes on the tachometer. I would like to learn more about this so I can fix my gauges also.
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Originally posted by Texas88 View PostAny idea how to test a Gateway? Several of my gauges don't work, checked connections etc but signs point to the Gateway. Hate to shell out $850 for a new one.
Does anyone know of a Used one by chance? The box says Faria model # GW0005B
[ATTACH=CONFIG]25147[/ATTACH]
Disclaimer!! the following comes from an automotive background, not marine, so don't take the following info to the bank..lol
If only some of your gauges are inoperative and not all, I would lean toward an instrument cluster problem or a missing input to the gateway from a sensor. Something like temp gauge not working because temperature sending unit not working. The serial bus is operational if some of the gauges on the serial bus still work. It should be an all or none type thing. Sometimes removing both battery cables and jumping them together for a few minutes will reboot a "stunned" or "locked up" control unit.
Serial bus control units generally need 3 things to operate. They need a power supply (12 volts), a ground source, and operational communication lines (positive and negative). Most controllers have more than one power supply and sometimes more than one ground. You will need a wiring diagram to troubleshoot. Also, a pin out of the gateway connector would be helpful, but not necessary. Usually the communication lines are toggled from 0 to 5 volts when working properly. An oscilloscope is the best way to check for the signals, but you can use a voltmeter. The voltmeter will not show the oscillations in voltage because it is to slow, but should show an average of around 2.5 volts.
This may not apply, but I am assuming the system works like an automotive can bus, when the modules are powered down there should be 60 ohms between the + and - communication lines. A reading of 120 ohms means there is an open circuit in one of the communication lines or a module has failed. Again these readings are with everything powered down.
I'll will be glad to clarify and answer any more questions, but I don't want to go on and on. Good luck getting it fixed!
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My 2005 SANTE is presently in winter storage in my garage. BUT the last time I used the boat I noticed the volt meter, and the oil pressure gauges not working. Since the oil pressure is extremely important I used my tachometer mode switch to verify that I had good oil pressure. In that exercise I noticed the oil pressure, and volts both indicated good readings in the tachometer. If the J1939 CAN message is being received and properly indicated by one gauge chances are the gauge that does not indicate properly is faulty. This winter, I have removed the dash, and inspected the gauge J1939 CAN harness. This harness is daisy chained from the tachometer to the other gauges. The harness is routed just like the gauges are arranged in the dash. If the harness was broken, all gauges downstream from the break would not work. These gauges do not require ground to properly display the J1939 CAN information. BUT ground is required to make the lighting work properly. I hate to say it but I believe my oil pressure, and my volt gauges are bad, or at least possibly intermittent. I cannot trouble shoot this until the lakes thaw.
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