My Nautique 220 Home made NSS build

[hotrod508]

I just wondered if anyone has found a good , or better control option? The lenco switch counts the pulses for the led indicators, but is not what I'm looking for? I've done a few of them now, it would be nice to find the missing link.
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[dfoster]

What are you looking to do? I am working on building a controller for the Lenco that can read speed off the paddlewheel or faria bus and adjust the distance. I have it mocked up now.... but I haven't had time this spring to do any more work.

[1955 classic]

okay so mine was kept under wraps until now, because i still havent water tested it, but bench tested electrics and sorted out faults. and it is winter here.

built the plates off another design here and for our 220, and have manual fittings on them(3 different settings) until i get the electrics mounted
will be using standard lenco actuators
runs off paddle wheel.
has mulitiple extension settings.
auto extends the desired side at approx 5mph
auto retracts the desired side at approx 15mph for safety
can be switched side to side whilst underway, auto retracting the side you don't want.
-all you do is turn on system
-select desired extension on rotary switch
-select desired side
-and go surfing

[hotrod508]

Pics don't work on the ipad

[hotrod508]

I have accidentally ran my tabs out at 25mph, did not test it above wakeboard speed. No damage. I also used thicker plate than they did.

[1955 classic]

have kept mine to 3mm stainless, plenty strong enough to do the job, but will bend if something is hit hard enough(hopefully never happens, but there is a thread or 2 with bent plates on G's), to save damaging the area where it bolts to the hull.

Whilst it is not needed as it auto retracts, i have the output to run an audible alarm if needed

may also powder coat outer panel to match hull colour, not sure yet

[hotrod508]

@1955 classic: I dragged out the old laptop, and finally saw your pic this am! very nice work with the stainless! looks like you welded in the barrel nut, backwards? to get the spacing? looks nice?

I would very much Love to see how you did your electronics? This is good stuff!

[shag]

I wish someone could to this for the 91-94 excel/BF hulls... :/

[simplysanj]

Anchoring the filler bit?

okay so mine was kept under wraps until now, because i still havent water tested it, but bench tested electrics and sorted out faults. and it is winter here.

built the plates off another design here and for our 220, and have manual fittings on them(3 different settings) until i get the electrics mounted
[ATTACH=CONFIG]29144[/ATTACH]

Wow you guys have done some inspiring work! I have ordered a Lenco kit with 4.5" travel for my 2002 SAN to do something similar.

How do you anchor the "wedge" curve filler bit to the hull, can you show us a picture of the back side and how it screws/bolts onto the hull. Are there some hidden tabs and if so, how do you tighten them if they're hidden behind that filler enclosure?

THANKS FOR THE INSPIRATION!!!
Sanj

[hotrod508]

Mine just strait bolts thru the Back, it's not necessary to have a ton of bolts. The above picture is really over- built.

[AndrewC]

I would not say it's over built. On boats like the 220, the radius on the back corner of the hull is quite large. This could potentially put the first fixing upto 5" in from the tip of the blade when extended. There is quite abut if leverage at that point.


Other boats like the new g series have non radius back corners which allow fixings to get close to the edge eliminating the need for as many bolts.


My system and the one above utilize a bolt that goes through the back corner radius on an odd angle. This reduced leverage and is critical as the when plate deployed, the whole plate mounting is really only as good as the the outer most bolts


Above photo is packers for section closest to middle of boar to compensate for curve in hull. Packers ensure pate it true and flat


Above photo shows corner bolt and packing behind to stop from pulling plate out of flat when bolted up hard to hull

[simplysanj]

More questions

Thanks for the quick reply, I have a couple more questions:

1) To fix it to the hull, did you use screws anchored into the fiberglas or thru-hull bolts and nuts that we don't see inside the boat? Lenco trim tabs use a bunch of screws. Also, what size screws/bolts did you use?

2) My 210 has a tapered chine on the back end. I don't have a curvature problem but I am not sure if I should fill in the chine as you have done with the curve. Others who have installed wood and plastic tabs on boats with chines have not filled them in with pretty good results but I don't know if it will be better without. The chines are supposed to make the back end skinnier so it sinks lower for a bigger wakeboard wake. What do you think?

[AndrewC]

I mostly used 1/4" nuts and bolts. I believe the real NSS is only held on by screws, but I did not know that at the time of fitting mine. I had to used 1/4" screws x3 on each side where they lined up with the end if the stringer as I cod not get into them to put nuts in.

I also bedded the whole backing plate on sikaflex to bond it aswell.

[AndrewC]

No need to fill a chine of that size! Water will still flow around and hit your device you make if it is mounted under the platform section.

[hotrod508]

Yeah agreed, your right!

By overbuilt I mean you could probably could get by with less (nautique uses many 10/24 screws and barrel nuts), although mine is built equally, if not more as stout. First time you leave the tab out you'll be happy it's bolted good! it is nice when it doesn't bend or get torn off. Haha!