Replacing Trailer Bunks

[AirTool]

Pretty much. Regular old pine 2x6 and monel staples. The carpet will be worn long before the lumber, pressure treated or not. If you need to make any serious bends, PT would probably be easier being it's still sopping wet at your local big box store.

Another 100% wrong answer.

It's a wishbone trailer.

[AirTool]

Another 100% wrong answer.

It's a wishbone trailer.

I'm looking for my picture of the bunks...but I think its on a backup drive at home.

I think you can order these pre-fabbed from Ramlin (through a dealer like White Lake) and have them dropped shipped to you. I'm not sure what the cost is...but if your time is expensive, it might be the most economical solution.

The biggest risk is the trailer tube is rusted out where the bolts go. That's why Mr. B is pointing you to the restoration threads - plus they will show you how its all put together.

[charlesml3]

Another 100% wrong answer.

It's a wishbone trailer.

And all you've contributed to the thread is whining and complaining. You've offered exactly ZERO usable content. So which ones should we really be ignoring here? The people that are actually trying to help, or the people that are here only to gripe?

So on the Prestige/Ramline trailers, the bunks are curved, not shaped. They're thinner PT boards that are bent to meet the shape of the trailer.

For these style trailers, I use 5/4 PT. It's commonly called "Five-Quarter Board" at Lowes. Steps:

1) Measure the width of the existing bunks and rip your 5/4 board down to that width. You can't leave it full width or it'll be impossible to curve.

2) Get the old bunks off. Most likely you'll have to cut the old screws. They usually rust in place pretty good and won't come out.

3) Clean up the old rails. If there's rust you should clean it off and paint the bare spots.

4) Sort out where you're going to install new screws. I use galvanized or stainless self-tapping flat-head screws. Length isn't terribly critical. Enough to go through the bunk and into the rail.

5) Cover the bunks with carpet. Use the old ones as guides.

6) Start at the stern end of the trailer. Cut a little flap in the carpet where the first screw is going. Drill through the bunk but not the rail (if you're using self-tapping screws). Put the first screw in here.

7) Work your way up to the bow. You'll need an assistant as you go to pull the bunk into the proper spot as you add screws. The last couple of screws can be tough. Use a come-along strap to pull the bunk into place if you need to.

8) Glue or staple the flaps in the carpet back down. Repeat for the other bunk.

That's all there is to it.

-Charles

[AirTool]

And all you've contributed to the thread is whining and complaining. You've offered exactly ZERO usable content. So which ones should we really be ignoring here? The people that are actually trying to help, or the people that are here only to gripe?......

Mr. Benjamin had the best recommendation at post #9.

Do you prefer we not caution the OP about obviously wrong answers?

[charlesml3]

I prefer the OP to listen to someone who's actually DONE this before on multiple trailers instead of some TOOL who can do nothing but throw rocks.

[TRBenj]

I prefer the OP to listen to someone who's actually DONE this before on multiple trailers instead of some TOOL who can do nothing but throw rocks.

Based on your step by step, its not clear to me that you have worked on a CC/Ramlin trailer before. Certainly some of your recommendations deviate from how they were originally built (bunks are 2x4 with a chamfered corner, not 5/4).

There are several good trailer restorations on this particular style over on CCFan.com... no need to rehash a bunch of good info when enough bad info is already mixed in.

[NCH2oSki]

Interesting thread.

I replaced the carpet on my 99 ramlin trailer and it was 2x4" material that came from the factory as the bunk board. I was glad it was in good shape and didnt need replacing. I did look at it as if I was going to have to do so, and my first thought was to purchase the apropriate lenght of 2 x 12's and lay them on the curved section and use the trailer to trace out the pattern. Does that make sense? I'm pretty sure that you would still end bending the last part of the board, since I'm sure it is more than 12" of curve from outside to inside.

[jchamlin]

OP, I have Ramlin trailer, I think it's a 2002. I recently had some water get into the brake reservoir and called Ramlin and they were really helpful with any questions I had. If you need to order anything from them, call WhiteLake (NautiqueParts) and order. Ramlin said I could call back if I did have to order parts, and they'd walk me through whatever was needed. Here's the number if you need it: 407.851.1144

I'm following this thread because I need to replace the carpet on my trailer and I haven't done it yet. I already have the carpet and 1/2 stainless staples...just need to get the boat off the trailer for a while. Good luck with everything. If I get to it before you do, I'll post on what I did.

[Quinner]

OMG, lots of crazy info on this thread, lol. Did one many years ago, before boat forums and the internet, lol. Will agree it's a pretty easy job, use 2x4 with a chamfer as Tim mentioned, finish with the straightest section, start with first thru bolt, bend as required from end of board for maximum leverage, add next bolt, etc. etc. until complete. I did a dry fit, removed, added carpet (did not use glue), re-installed and tightened all bolts, done deal. Also as mentioned, search CCFan, should be some good info from actual projects.

Want to say I recall having to rip the width down to match original as it was not 3.1/2" wide, then again it was quite a few years ago so I certainly could be wrong. Also if you sand/round all the 90's slightly, it will be easier on the carpet.

[charlesml3]

Certainly some of your recommendations deviate from how they were originally built (bunks are 2x4 with a chamfered corner, not 5/4).

I'm aware of that. In order to do a direct replacement with a 2x4 you need special tools to shape the bunk. It's a LOT more work and it drastically increases the price.

5/4 board is far cheaper and does just as well. We use that for replacement bunks because it can be installed easily. In dozens of installations I've never seen a problem with it.

[AirTool]

I'm aware of that. In order to do a direct replacement with a 2x4 you need special tools to shape the bunk. It's a LOT more work and it drastically increases the price.

5/4 board is far cheaper and does just as well. We use that for replacement bunks because it can be installed easily. In dozens of installations I've never seen a problem with it.

That's why I posted this:

....I think you can order these pre-fabbed from Ramlin (through a dealer like White Lake) and have them dropped shipped to you. I'm not sure what the cost is...but if your time is expensive, it might be the most economical solution.

Which you clearly didn't read or remember because you posted this:

And all you've contributed to the thread is whining and complaining. You've offered exactly ZERO usable content. So which ones should we really be ignoring here? The people that are actually trying to help, or the people that are here only to gripe?

Now why would you now say this:

I'm aware of that. In order to do a direct replacement with a 2x4 you need special tools to shape the bunk......

When you previously said the opposite:

So on the Prestige/Ramline trailers, the bunks are curved, not shaped........
-Charles

Which is it: Shaped?....or not shaped?

And here you say:

..... In dozens of installations I've never seen a problem with it.

But before you said:

Good grief, people. They're TRAILER BUNKS. Otherwise known as PT Lumber covered with a bit of Indoor/Outdoor carpet. A lot of you are making this out to be some kind of surgical operation.

1) Get the old bunks off. Cut the bolts with a Sawzall or a hacksaw if you have to.
2) Measure and cut new bunks.
3) Drill holes for the new bolts by putting the board on the trailer and drilling through the bracket hole.
4) Put the carpet on with some kind of fastener that won't rust. Like galvanized roofing nails.
5) Bolt the new bunks on. Use Galvanized carriage bolts.

That's it. Jeez, it's simple.

Which was mostly wrong.

Okay...you have less than 50 posts, just apologize now and get it over with.

[charlesml3]

Oh what's the matter, Tool-Time? Butt hurt because someone didn't just bow down to your "1000 post Club Member" and "Respect your AuthoraTIE?"

Near as I can tell, it's 1000 posts that do nothing but troll.

Once again, you've contributed nothing usable to this thread. I've done the work. I've replaced trailer bunks on ski boat trailers, pontoon boat trailers, jetski trailers, and lifts. You've never done any of that. If you had, you would have posted something in this thread that actually helped. But we both know you have no experience with it whatsoever.

So who exactly should I be apologizing to? You? Krikey, man, get over yourself.

[AirTool]

There is no possible way I would ever be bothered by you...just not possible.

Once again, you've contributed nothing usable to this thread.

The contribution of the last post convinced everyone not to trust your crap. But your last post did a pretty good job of that. You won't last long on here with that kind of attitude.

..... I've replaced trailer bunks on ski boat trailers, pontoon boat trailers, jetski trailers, and lifts. You've never done any of that.....

I grew up next to salt water...I've done bigger trailer repairs in the marina parking lot with tools from the tackle box.

This is my last post on this thread...I just need the answer to my first question...

...Where is the *ignore* button ?