XS550 Issue in my G23 - Help wanted

[MileHiGuy]

Hello
Has anyone gotten the Diagnosis Warning "DTC 111 IAC Higher Than Expected Stage I" error?

I have an intermittent problem and the first trip to the PCM dealer could not diagnose the problem but it appears that the electric pump on the Port Side that circulates the antifreeze between the heat exchanger and the intercooler is not working all the time like it is supposed to.

I have over a 105 trouble free hours on my G23 and have always noticed when you first hit the "stop" button you would hear what sounds like a small electric motor running in the engine compartment. When you hit the "stop" button a second time you loose your depth gauge, fuel gauge and the electric motor in the engine compartment will stop. As it turns out this electric motor is the intercooler pump.

Now my pump runs randomly and when it is not on, the intake air gets elevated, power drops off and as it turns out, this error code will eventually display and put the motor in limp mode at about 1/4 throttle.

Can any one tell me if this pump runs when the LINK is in the accessory mode (2 "start" button pushes?) upon starting?
As stated above, i know it will run on shut down but not sure if it is supposed to be running on powering up.

Thanks in advance...

[NautiqueJeff]

I can confirm that the intercooler pump does run on mine when I press the stop button one time (when turning the engine off), just like yours does.

I do NOT believe mine runs in the accessory mode (before starting the engine).

[nyryan2001]

Guys- my inter cooler pump will run regardless of whether its ACC on, or ready or standby.

if my engine is hot, that intercooler pump will run for about 15mins till it cools down... The ONLY way to get that pump to stop is to completely power down to a black screen or put the Perko to off. Nothing on the dash stops that pump.

MileHi- your pump isn't working properly and your intercooler temps are going higher than normal, putting your supercharger in limp mode... So you are running as naturally aspirated 6.2... Prolly about 350hp when that happens.

[core-rider]

MileHi- your pump isn't working properly and your intercooler temps are going higher than normal, putting your supercharger in limp mode... So you are running as naturally aspirated 6.2... Prolly about 350hp when that happens.

I could be wrong, but I don't think it's possible for the supercharger to be "turned off". It is driven off the crankshaft via a belt. Removing that belt would be the only way to keep the supercharger from spinning. I could see the computer de-tuning the engine to protect from engine failure/damage if high IAC temps were seen. Dealer should be able to diagnose and repair the issue with help from PCM I would hope.

[ers906]

Mine runs the same as Ryan's. I believe more based on engine temp (running 15 minutes or so after shutting the engine down). It is not a big deal since we are usually wiping the boat down on the trailer at that point. I do believe that it starts when I first power the boat on, but not starting the engine. I have not had the fault code pop up on mine (almost at 200 hours).

[MileHiGuy]

Thanks for the responses. My electric intercooler pump used to run extended duration when the motor was first shut down but not sure when the start button pressed for the second time. Tried it again this morning on the trailer and it sounds like the pump runs for a few seconds and then shuts down but need to investigate more when I have a second person to stand back by the pump when the button is pressed. However I do not see fluid coming back to the overflow tank which I typically do when the Intercooler pump is running which makes me think I am hearing something different.

Being intermittent has me concerned that I will get this resolved timely. Because the pump has run makes me think there is an issue with what tells the pump to run and not the pump.

Thanks

[ironj32]

Your guys' electric coolers run unless you completely make the screen black? I'm guessing the cooler is what sounds like a blower fan, correct? If yes, mine does not run until the engine is running. After engine is running and I press stop, the cooler will remain on until I hit stop one more time (so that only 1 blue light is on)...with one light on my cooler is off, but sceen on and fully functional. I wonder if they switched to have it on longer in the 2014s?

[nyryan2001]

the "cooler" is actually a heavy duty yacht sized bilge pump...plumbed in to pump the AF around thru the SC and the intercooler.

Its a back, Rock Star can sized pump mounted to the right rear bottom of the engine bay if you are looking at the engine facing the rear of the boat. big thick 1" hoses coming in an out.


Yes, 100% positive... NO combination of Stop, Start, hit stop twice or anything on the dash will get that thing to stop running.... it runs till it cools off... about 15mins or so after you pull it up the ramp. It'll cut off on its own. Only way to stop that pump is to turn the Perko to off.... or completely power down to a black screen. It runs when fuel, volts depth everything reads 0 on the guages.

[MileHiGuy]

Yes, 100% positive... NO combination of Stop, Start, hit stop twice or anything on the dash will get that thing to stop running.... it runs till it cools off... about 15mins or so after you pull it up the ramp. It'll cut off on its own. Only way to stop that pump is to turn the Perko to off.... or completely power down to a black screen. It runs when fuel, volts depth everything reads 0 on the guages.

Mine is (was) similar to IronJ. Hit the button twice and it would shut off every time. I would also swear I caught it running for longer periods of time than 15 minutes but not 100% sure on that.

It definitely does not run currently on the start up sequence. The noise I hear on the second start button press is the fuel pump. Side story on that was that I found that dangling loose tonight as the 3-bolts that hold it in place had come loose/gone so you might double check yours.

[thedude]

Could your intake screen on the bottom of the boat be clogged up? Here in PA we have quite a few leaves on the water, they get clogged up between the intake screen and the metal plate below the intake screen on the bottom of the boat. Every time out I'll have to clean that or else I'll get a trouble code for the exhaust manifold water temp being too high and it will power down. You are getting a different code, but the cause could be the same since they are both related to the coolant loop.

[MileHiGuy]

No, the first thing checked was the intake and strainer. Then we replaced the impeller as it had 100 hours with no change.

Sounds like they suspect the pump is bad. According to the dealer and PCM the pump will not run when you first key the ignition but as soon as you crack the throttle the pump will run continuous until shut down and mine is being intermittent. They did confirm that if this pump does not work the motor will be a dog -confirmed.

My last post was worded poorly but I also found the 3 stainless 3/8 bolts that secure the fuel cell/pump had backed out. This is located on the aft starboard side. Mine might be an anomaly but one might make a habit of giving it a periodic check.

I am happy to find the fix being simple as we the absolute best time EVER behind this boat and can't wait for next year. After all 99.5% of our 107 hours this year were trouble free

Cheers...

[FBMLJ]

Bump, I have this same problem. OP, was your problem fixed? Also, does anyone know if the intercooler pump that circulates the coolant runs pretty much all the time while the motor is running? Thanks guys

[Coloradog23]

I am also getting this error with 3 hours on the boat. Did they replace your pump?


Sent from my iPhone using PLT Nautique