My shopping list for Engine, Trans, and V-drive fluids

[BrickBrock]

I just purchased a 2005 SANTE with the Excalibur 330 motor, PCM trans 1.0:1, with Walters V-Drive RV-26D1D.

Because some of the fluids available in 2005 are no longer available today, I made a shopping list of the fluids and parts I needed to change out all the fluids and filters.

Here is what I bought:

5 quarts of Mobil Delvac 15W-40 and Motorcraft FL-1A filter for the Engine.


2 quarts of Dex/Merc Automatic transmission Fluid (Dexron III is no longer available and I have read in these forums that Dex/Merc is the best replacement for what is available today) for the PCM transmission.


1 quart of SAE30 oil (I could not find a reputable brand in 1 quart bottles, so I had to get a 4 quart jug) for the Walters V-drive.


1 new raw water impeller (RP061022) and 1 new fuel filter (RP080026) - both kits came with the o-rings shown in the photo.


Fuel resistant pipe thread sealer (for the FCC drain plug), Anti seize for the tower bolt knobs, Teflon tape for water drain plugs.


Sta-Bil marine treatment (I cannot get non-ethanol fuel in my area), Marine grease for the rudder, Sta-Bil fogging oil for the cylinders.


I have compiled this information from reading many hours on this forum. This will be the first time I change the fluids (and after a couple more times out, winterize the boat). Please let me know if any of the fluids I purchased will harm my engine. I will change the fluids next weekend.

I plan on warming up the engine by running it for 5-10 minutes sucking cooling water from a bucket (replenishing the bucket with a garden hose) while it is on the trailer. Should I do anything else to make sure the Transmission and V-drive are sufficiently warmed up before I change those fluids?

I really liked Bimmerboyz step by step photo instructions on how to winterize. I may try to do that when I change the fuel filter (depending on how messy my hands get). This forum is great.

[fyrhog]

More info on v drive lube.
http://cruisingoutpost.com/forum/vie....php?f=3&t=921

[Beach-TJ]

Looks like a good list, I need to start pulling mine together. When I'm going to change trans and v-drive fluids I like to drive the boat for 10 or 15 min first, to warm them up to make them easier to extract. But it's only a10 min drive to the lake for me.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4

[ski4evr]

my 2005 pcm owners manual stated to use 30 wt engine oil in the vdrive.

[BrickBrock]

So I have changed all my fluids (my first time, the boat is new to me). I used an oil extractor for the transmission (but only got 1.25 quarts out) and for the engine oil. I inserted the extractor tube into the remote engine oil drain hose and got all the oil out without spilling a drop, but it took around 20 minutes. The whole job could have been done from the water.

I read on this forum about some people cutting up a milk carton or cutting up an oil bottle to place below the v-drive drain plug and then using the oil extractor to suck up the v-drive oil from the container. I planned to use this technique too, but I used an old apple juice jug.

My logic was that this is a 2 quart bottle, so if I cut it down, it should still be able to hold the full quart of SAE30 oil for my v-drive. It is also stiffer than a milk carton and it is clear, so you can inspect the fluid quality during draining.
I cut the bottle with scissors like in the attached photos.

This turned out better than I had originally planned for because the bottle was long enough to be under the drain plug and under the v-drive oil filter screen at the same time. While the v-drive oil was draining into the bottle, my oil extractor was sucking up the oil from the apple juice container, and I could take off the hoses to get to the v-drive oil filter screen all simultaneously. Any drips from the v-drive oil filter screen also fell into the apple juice container, so this was a very clean job.

It got messy when I tried to fill the v-drive. It kept burping as I was adding oil and it took a very long time to fill. I though about this as I slept last night and I realized that I did not remove the dip stick on the v-drive when I was filling oil in the v-drive fill port. Do you guys pull the dip stick out of the v-drive when you are filling it? I think this would give the air that was being displaced by the new oil an escape path different that where I was filling the new oil. If this is still a long tedious job even when pulling the dip-stick, do you guys have any tricks that make filling oil in the v-drive a cleaner and faster job?

Answering my own question. Pull the dip stick on the v-drive (giving the displace air a path to escape) and the new oil slides right in.

[Nick Heimer]

I used the "juice jug" technique yesterday when changing my v-drive oil but did end up spilling some into the bilge (good idea, poorly executed). If I were to do it again, I think I would try putting a garbage bag or something else down just-in-case. It's very tight under there.

[James]

You may want to double check Mobile Delvac 1300 15w40. I am not 100% sure but I don't think it meets API Service SM rating.

[BrickBrock]

Nick, did you use an oil vacuum extractor to empty the Juice jug while it was still in position under the v-drive? I used my vacuum extractor to suck the container dry before removing the container from under the v-drive and had zero mess. I did lay a couple of paper towels under the contain, just in case of small spill.

James, here is a quote from the Mobil Delvac 1300 site:
"Accordingly, these oils also meet or exceed the requirements of API CK-4, CJ-4, CI-4 PLUS, CI-4 and CH-4 service categories, as well as key OEM requirements. Mobil Delvac 1300 Super engine oils are universal, meaning they may also be used in gasoline engines requiring the API SN specification."

found here: https://mobildelvac.com/en/engine-oi...vac-1300-super

[Nick Heimer]

Nick, did you use an oil vacuum extractor to empty the Juice jug while it was still in position under the v-drive? I used my vacuum extractor to suck the container dry before removing the container from under the v-drive and had zero mess. I did lay a couple of paper towels under the contain, just in case of small spill.

I only had a hand pump to get the oil up from the jug. I do imagine with an electric pump, I would have been good to go.

Live and learn.

[Quinner]

Great job and nice post with pics.

Here are my thoughts after almost 700hrs on my 2005 206 with Excalibur.
Write the oil change hours and FCC change hours on the oil filter with a sharpie for quick reference.
If you are unsure when cap/rotor/plugs were last changed, replace in spring so you can set a new change interval. Cap is a known issue, I have had to replace mine almost every 100-150hrs
If yours is a Team Edition as indicated, remove your gateway box in the offseason, at the least disconnect the pitots if it stays in heated storage. Supposed to self drain and may not which backs ice up on circuit board and smokes gateway, worst part is they are no longer available.
If you have perfect pass and experience random high idle issues, remove the motor shroud and see if that resolves it. Cable bind on shroud known problem.
While boat is stored in the offseason, if you have access, spin the steering wheel full tilt right - left several times every 3-4 weeks, this will help keep the steering cable from rusting.
Do not use the teflon tape on the knock sensor, all the other plugs it's fine.

Been a great motor, only failed part so far has been the low pressure fuel pump.

Where in Wisco are you?? I am just below the Cheddar curtain in Lake Villa, Ill

[BrickBrock]

Quinner. I wrote this post almost 4 years ago. I also write the hours with a sharpie on my oil filter, pull the pitot tubes off the gateway box (but I leave the box in over winter), I also do not use teflon tape on the knock sensor. I have not replaced my cap/rotor/plug wires (I have replaced plugs). Do you get an automotive cap/rotor/plug wires? If so, what part numbers are you using? I smell unburned fuel from time to time, so it may be running rich or it is time to replace my cap/rotor/plug wires. I agree, this has been a great motor. I have not replaced my low pressure fuel pump. I live in the Milwaukee metro area.

In my first post I referenced Bimmerboyz Winterizing post (it has excellent pictures for a first time winterizer). Here is the link: https://www.planetnautique.com/vb5/f...n-ex330-photos

[Quinner]

Apparently my response time is not what it used to be, lmao!

I use genuine GM parts from NAPA for my cap and rotor, my buddy who has an auto repair shop locally and is a GM expert stocks the cap and rotor so it must be a standard part. When we pulled the factory original cap and rotor years ago we studied and compared and could find no marine specific aspect of either so have been using the "auto" version ever since. Have gone to a different plug but do not remember the number, was a hotter version or something my buddy recommended, My wires are still original but I will likely replace those this winter.

[scottb7]

I agree with above...Cap and rotor from auto parts store works fine...I compared and they are exactly the same.

[lfadam]

I read on this forum about some people cutting up a milk carton or cutting up an oil bottle to place below the v-drive drain plug and then using the oil extractor to suck up the v-drive oil from the container. I planned to use this technique too, but I used an old apple juice jug.

My logic was that this is a 2 quart bottle, so if I cut it down, it should still be able to hold the full quart of SAE30 oil for my v-drive. It is also stiffer than a milk carton and it is clear, so you can inspect the fluid quality during draining.
I cut the bottle with scissors like in the attached photos.

This turned out better than I had originally planned for because the bottle was long enough to be under the drain plug and under the v-drive oil filter screen at the same time. While the v-drive oil was draining into the bottle, my oil extractor was sucking up the oil from the apple juice container, and I could take off the hoses to get to the v-drive oil filter screen all simultaneously. Any drips from the v-drive oil filter screen also fell into the apple juice container, so this was a very clean job.


Answering my own question. Pull the dip stick on the v-drive (giving the displace air a path to escape) and the new oil slides right in.

Reviving an old thread here...trying to change my V-Drive fluid and the Pela 6000 extractor wasn't able to get more than a cup of oil out via the dipstick. Want to try this plastic bottle technique...but where is the oil drain plug on these old V-Drives? Is it here (see pic circled in red)? If so do you remove the hose first then loosen the square plug with an adjustable wrench to get the filter out?

[Scooter G]

Every once in a while, I catch an old thread, just when you thought you've seen them all. Good thread, good hacks.
Did you glance at this thread lfadam?
https://www.planetnautique.com/vb5/f...ion-oil-change

Adding a hack for what it's worth. A Buddy should up with some of these one day. Excellent for oil changes on the dirt bikes and toys. My shop floor hasn't felt a drop of oil for many moons. Also superb for catching oil in the boat for the oil & filter changes.




https://www.amazon.com/Aain-LT111A-A...%2C149&sr=8-23