Winter checklist

[Brichter14]

Today i did the following

1. Checked the oil. I bought the boat in July and they changed the oil before i bought it.
2. Changed the impellar. This was my first time doing this and the hardest part was taking out my engine dividers to access the pump.
3. Drained the exhaust manifolds and the block on each side. Is this enough for winterization?

The boat stays in an insulated garage that i keep heated at 50 degrees through the winter.

Can i call it done and not worry about it anymore?

[gride]

you're good. at those temps you didn't even need to drain the block.

[beach]

What engine does it have?

If it doesn't have cats, then I'd take out each spark plug and fog each cylinder. This is to help prevent corrosion. I also prefer to run rv antifreeze through the engine. Antifreeze has additives that also help prevent corrosion. I'd fill the gas tank to 3/4 full and add stabil before running the engine the last time. Filling the tank 3/4 full leaves less room for condensation to form while still leaving room for expansion during the spring without spilling out the vent. You should be sure the battery(s) are fully charged. It's not good for them to sit the entire winter partially charged.

You might also have a few more drains on an oil cooler and on a vdrive(if you have one).

I also prefer to change the impeller in the spring, especially if you filled with antifreeze since that can cause it to swell.

Remember, winterizing a boat is not just about preventing freeze damage. It's also about preparing it to sit unused for months.

[Brichter14]

Sorry its a 97 super sport with gt 40. The garage is heated by a propane heater so i wanted to be safe in case of an extended power outtage.

Good point on the battery. I have a 2,6,10 amp charger, which one do you think is best for maintaining?

im gonna skip antifreeze cuz its stored indoors and shouldnt reach freezing temps

[scottb7]

If I had a heated garage, I would put a davis air dryer in the back and skip the winterizing.

Also, pcm told me don't need to fog unless storing over a year. You should read manual, cause for sure there are at least one or two other drain points.

[eyekode]

It is a v-drive right? Most if these have drain ports as well.

Do you have heaters or a shower? These would be the first things to have trouble if your power went out.

[jmo]

I would suggest not storing the boat with the impeller in as you don't want the fins setting and as you reinstall in the spring you can lube it with soapy water so it's not running dry until you have water reaching it from the pick up on the bottom of the boat. Given its a brand new impeller and hence not wet, setting as it drys over the winter is probably not a concern, but running a dry impeller can shred it pretty quickly...

HTH's

JMO

[Brichter14]

I put some water-based lube that i had lying around on the impellar before i installed it. I thought that maybe i should leave it out so the few fins that are scrunhed in the bottom dont get permanently scrunched but i wanted to put my engine dividers back in and button everything up so i can go use it asap in the spring.

When i start it in the spring it will be in the water so the impellar shoukdnt run dry for very long at all right?

[swankster]

If I had a heated garage, I would put a davis air dryer in the back and skip the winterizing.

I agree unless you are in an area prone to power outages.

[charlesml3]

Surprised nobody is advocating putting Sta-Bil in the gas. I always do. I use the manufacturers recommendation on concentration and make sure the boat runs on a fake-a-lake long enough for the treated fuel to get all the way through everything.

-Charles

[bscott]

[QUOTE=beach;216753] Antifreeze has additives that also help prevent corrosion.[QUOTE]

I'm pretty sure that RV antifreeze does not have corrosion inhibitors.

[scottb7]

I agree with above in that I have seen no argument for draining and backfilling with RV antifreeze.