Fuel Filter Change

[rcazwillis]

Looking to change the fuel filter on my new to me 2002 SANTE. Manual says to drain the FCC through the plug on the bottom of the canister. How do you capture the fuel? There are hoses running beneath it. Any how too directions would be helpful.

[ski4evr]

I've used a pitcher, a quart jar with a lid (lid was helpful not making a mess) but didn't like using glass, and the best was a funnel with a long piece of vinyl tubing running out the bottom drain to a drain pan. Don't really love either way with all the fumes, make sure of possible ignition sources this time of year. Check on here for a lot of good posts on the topic.

[AirTool]

....the best was a funnel with a long piece of vinyl tubing running out the bottom drain to a drain pan.... .

That's what I do....but I do catch it in a glass jar.

Draining fuel from a filter is somewhat like picking your nose. You always want to take a look before discarding.

edit: There has never been any visible water.

[core-rider]

IMHO its easier to just remove the FCC from the boat. Remove the fuel lines, electrical connector, and 2 bolts I think. The whole assembly can come out and be drained on the bench. Most of the time you will have to remove it anyway to unscrew the canister on a bench vise because it's so tight.

[AirTool]

IMHO its easier to just remove the FCC from the boat.......

What year did they change to the T-bolt?

[Zach@n3]

At some point after 02 when the Ford went away. I am thinking it was 04 when they changed to the serp belt setup on the Chevys but I would have to confirm. Those still use an acorn low pressure pump an then 07 ish they switched to the low pressure cylinder style pump located on the outside of the FCC. On troublesome screw on style the guys in the shop just remove them from the boats to replace.

[core-rider]

My 03 is screw-on style so I would assume 02 would be too unless swapped out.


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[shag]

Might be common sense, but i always keep a fire extinguisher within reach when doing any fuel related work....

[rcazwillis]

My 02 is definetly a screw on. I like the funnel and hose idea. Read in another thread where someone used a 1 gallon zip log bag. That might be easy. I will probably use the funnel method or remove it to work bench.

What about unscrewing the cannister before draining. Wouldn't the pump and filter allow the level of fuel to drop as the canister was lowered?

[Miljack]

The screw on canisters can be difficult, even when previously removed, and carefully lubricated with something to prevent galling. I would also recommend the removal of the entire unit from the boat, that will just save you time when you need to use the alternate method of removing the canister.

The first time I removed the FCC canister, I had to resort to a vice (canister in vice with "soft jaws") and bolts in the top/mount part, and a crowbar to loosen!

[east tx skier]

Two filter wrenches can be helpful. When you reinstall, lubricate the gasket and don't go past 1/4 turn past hand tight to make future removal much easier.

[rcazwillis]

Followed the advice of removing the unit from the boat to change the filter. The pipe wrench marks on the can indicated it had been off before. My strap wrench would not move it, but the pipe wrench did. Once it broke loose, I could remove it by hand. Total time took about 30 minutes.

[Zach@n3]

Good job. Usually when re installed most will only hand tighten to make later removal much easier. Like an oil filter the seal expands over time with the fuel and warmth from the engine.

[east tx skier]

Yes, they do. And as I learned with my oil filter on a late oil change, removing a filter in freezing weather tends to go badly for the filter.

On the positive side, I did purchase a great jaw-type wrench that will be used on all future jobs and managed to get my crushed and punctured (intentionally) oil filter (that was properly lubed last year) off my cold block.

[Zach@n3]

Haha nice! One of my biggest pet peeves (generally found in automotive world) is monkeys who over tighten things IE oil filters and drain plugs. There is no faster way for tools to start flying across the garage than if I have to stick a screw driver through an oil filter or I round off a drain plug using the proper tools. If the drain plug is so tight I need a ratchet lever extension and to brace my chest against the front wheel of the car that is WAY TO TIGHT. I use what I feel is proper torque on filters and drain plugs and guess how many I have had come out or leak? Zero. I have probably changed oil in no less than 1000 different cars with no failures. The oil filter on my 67 sits right next to a header. You can't even go fully hand tight on that one if you want to remove it without crushing it with a conventional filter wrench. Anyone ever used a seatbelt style filter wrench? They were very handy on Cummins diesel filters when removing from the top side but they also are extremely strong for removing stubborn filters where you can't always use a jaw/plier style tool. I assume they would be great on an FCC as well without damaging the finish like a chain wrench.