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I've got a Ram-Lin trailer under my '91 SN. The Atwood actuator seems to be functioning normally, meaning I manually moved the actuator while one of the bleeder valves was open and fluid came spurting out. However, I took one of the wheels off and the shoes and wheel cylinder (the thingy that actually pushes the shoes out) look like they have about 14 years of rust on them and haven't moved in a long long time. Anybody know what I need or who I should talk to so I can get haulin' safely down the road again?
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Once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward. For it is there you have been and there you will long to return. - Leonardo De Vinci -
RE: Trailer Brakes
If you need to contact Ramlin, their number is 407.851.1144. Talk to Dave.
http://www.ram-lin.com/index.htm
Overton's also sells trailer parts, actuator, brakes, etc. -
RE: Trailer Brakes
The easiest thing to do is just replace the entire brake assembly from the backing plate outward with a new assembled unit. It would be a good time to upgrade to free backing so that you do not need to worry about the crappy reverse lockout feature on the attwood couplers. I just did this upgrade and each brake assembly was $47.00/ea.
You do not need to worry about matching brands as brakes are fairly universal in fit...just need to know whether yours are 10" or 12".Comment
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RE: Trailer Brakes
I put brakes on my trailer a couple of years ago, and the guys at Dexter were a big help. Chcek out their site. They have a ton of info on their brakes, but as DavidF said, they are quite universal.
http://www.dexteraxle.com/1987 Ski Nautique 2001Comment
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RE: Trailer Brakes
You can just repace the wheel cylinders, but I also vote for just replacing the complete backing plate assembly.Comment
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