100 Amp Alternator upgrade - GT40

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • Chexi
    1,000 Post Club Member
    • Jan 2025
    • 2119

    • Austin

    • 2000 SAN

    100 Amp Alternator upgrade - GT40

    This past weekend I finally got around to pulling my old alternator (which had a bad voltage regulator) and replacing it with the 100 Amp upgrade kit that I bought about 4-5 years ago. I learned a few things in the process and have one question.

    1. Question: The instructions say to disregard/disconnect the orange wire (which I assume was a power wire) that was connected to the old alternator and instead replace it with the much larger gauge red wire that comes with the kit and hook this up to the starter solonoid. No problem. Simple and done. However, the instructions are silent about the little black ground wire. There is a new large gauge ground that goes to the ground on the starter bell housing, and I hooked that up, but it is unclear what to do with the little black wire ground that was on the old alternator. For now, I have not hooked it up. I also note that the connector will not fit the ground post on the new alternator, and there is insufficient metal to drill out the ring hole connector to make it fit, so I would need to put on a larger ring connector if I am supposed to actually use this wire. On a very quick test, the alterantor does appear to be charging the system without use of this little black wire, so I suspect it is to be disregarded (especially since it is a very thin wire and I already have a very large ground wire connected). However, if anyone knows for sure, I would appreciate the input.

    2. What I learned:

    a. The instructions are not very good.

    b. The diagram did not match my new alternator, and the wiring can be confusing. The key thing to remember here is that the ring connectors on the main power line replacement cable is a different size than the replacement ground wire, and they only fit where they are supposed to go. In my case, the ground post was on the very edge of the alternator, whereas the power line was more toward the middle of the back of the alternator. The diagram showed both posts toward the middle-ish part of the back of the alternator.

    c. You will need an impact wrench to remove the serpentine pully from the new alternator and probably to remove the v pully from the old. Otherwise, you will probably tear things up trying to get the blasted nuts off. An impact wrench makes it easy.

    d. Like most manual tasks, a second set of hands is extremely helpful.
    Last edited by Chexi; 03-03-2014, 11:01 AM.
    Now
    2000 SAN

    Previously
    1999 Air Nautique
    1996 Tige Pre-2000
    1989 Lowe 24' Pontoon / Johnson 100HP outboard
  • EchoLodge
    Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
    • Jan 2004
    • 616

    • Huntington Beach, CA

    • 99 Super Sport

    #2
    I put mine in 2 years ago. I really don't remember having any issues on my 99 SS. Like you I used an impact to get the pulley off. I will have to take a peek at mine next time I run it to see what I did with the black wire. I was hopping that the upgrade would help my volt meter show above 12.5 when running but it doesn't. I still need to put a relay in for my PP as the stock wiring to the breakers does't like the added draw.
    sigpic

    Comment

    • Chexi
      1,000 Post Club Member
      • Jan 2025
      • 2119

      • Austin

      • 2000 SAN

      #3
      I only started mine up on the trailer (at the launch) and tested it at idle and rev'd a bit in neutral.

      Before changing, my voltmeter would read 12.5v (or thereabouts) when starting and idling. If I got the boat going about 3k RPM, it would jump to 16v. It would then stay there at idle until I shut the engine off. Rinse, repeat.

      After changing (again only tested it a little), at idle just after starting it was reading 14.5v. Rev'd in neutral, stayed at 14.5v. Maybe bumped a slight bit for a second, but immediately went back to 14.5v.

      Note, I have confirmed all the readings with a digital multimeter at the battery terminals at various stages and confirmed that my voltmeter on the dash is amazingly accurate.
      Now
      2000 SAN

      Previously
      1999 Air Nautique
      1996 Tige Pre-2000
      1989 Lowe 24' Pontoon / Johnson 100HP outboard

      Comment

      • EchoLodge
        Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
        • Jan 2004
        • 616

        • Huntington Beach, CA

        • 99 Super Sport

        #4
        Originally posted by Chexi View Post
        I only started mine up on the trailer (at the launch) and tested it at idle and rev'd a bit in neutral.

        Before changing, my voltmeter would read 12.5v (or thereabouts) when starting and idling. If I got the boat going about 3k RPM, it would jump to 16v. It would then stay there at idle until I shut the engine off. Rinse, repeat.

        After changing (again only tested it a little), at idle just after starting it was reading 14.5v. Rev'd in neutral, stayed at 14.5v. Maybe bumped a slight bit for a second, but immediately went back to 14.5v.

        Note, I have confirmed all the readings with a digital multimeter at the battery terminals at various stages and confirmed that my voltmeter on the dash is amazingly accurate.
        You have better wiring in your model boat as PP was an option I believe (PP Cruise?). I had the same issue when I installed PP and a 95 amp alternator in my 90 SN. Ran beefier gauge to breaker. I am able to run my heater, stereo, tower lights, nav lights, and underwater lights with no issues tho.
        sigpic

        Comment

        • Chexi
          1,000 Post Club Member
          • Jan 2025
          • 2119

          • Austin

          • 2000 SAN

          #5
          One other thing I forgot to mention. I did not need the spacer. In fact, if I put the spacer on, there would be no way to tighten the nut on the pulley. My pulley had a built-in spacer.
          Now
          2000 SAN

          Previously
          1999 Air Nautique
          1996 Tige Pre-2000
          1989 Lowe 24' Pontoon / Johnson 100HP outboard

          Comment

          • Chexi
            1,000 Post Club Member
            • Jan 2025
            • 2119

            • Austin

            • 2000 SAN

            #6
            I asked my question to the friendly folks at Whitelake and they confirmed I was correct to disregard the little black ground.
            Now
            2000 SAN

            Previously
            1999 Air Nautique
            1996 Tige Pre-2000
            1989 Lowe 24' Pontoon / Johnson 100HP outboard

            Comment

            • EchoLodge
              Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
              • Jan 2004
              • 616

              • Huntington Beach, CA

              • 99 Super Sport

              #7
              Good to know

              Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
              sigpic

              Comment

              • shag
                1,000 Post Club Member
                • Jul 2003
                • 2217

                • Florida


                #8
                That orange wire was the 'exciter' wire which is now not needed. The little black was a ground. I just hooked mine to the local blaock area although it probably doesn't matter.

                Comment

                Working...
                X