Zr6 Oil change every 2 weeks?

[TRO]

if you have time to wakeboard 30 hours a week, you have plenty enough time to change your oil every two. wish I had that problem.

[shawndoggy]

+1, good advice

...

I would not hesitate to go to even 200 hours if you are seeing that in less than 2 months.

This advice is definitely an outlier and is probably a very very bad idea except in unusual circumstances (like all you ever do is idle for hours on end). Oil doesn't last longer depending on how recently in time you changed it. It wears out and gets used up based on use.

[vision]

All good posts. The 50 hour number is not magical. It is simply a safe conservative engine use time that the average oil will tolerate. More stable oil, lower temps, lower average rpms, etc, will all extend oil life.


The advice to visual inspect or better yet have oil analyzed to measure its viscosity after use is the best way to judge how long you can safely go between changes. I would be shocked if your oil did not perform well for at least 100 hours if you are using a heavy duty synthetic.

[Zach@n3]

I tack up hours very quickly in the summer. I usually run about a 60-70 hour interval on Rotella T 10w-30 conventional. It is always clean as a pin when it is changed but you will see a slight 5-8 psi drop in hot idle pressure when you hit the 60-70 hour mark pending usage. That's how I know when it's time. Nothing dangerous below 10 psi. Example, it usually idles hot after a wot run at about 25 psi. Later in the oils life that will drop to about 20 psi. Not a huge thing but when I get as much seat time and watching gauges like a hawk it's something I notice immediately. Do a 50 hour interval and send your oil in to have it analyzed. There are plenty of companies that offer this service. I am going to have it done in my truck because consistently not matter how much highway or city driving I do my oil change light comes on at 2500 miles in my truck. Manual states a normal interval is 6000 miles with the semi-synthetic blend Chrysler specifies. I use a Synthetic that passes their standards. The only issue I can see with my cold start city driving would be diluting the oil quickly with fuel, but that will be determined by some scientist in a lab I pay at my next oil change.

[nyryan2001]

Wow. You see an oil PSI drop when your oil starts to break down?

[AirTool]

Wow. You see an oil PSI drop when your oil starts to break down?

I see that in both of my chevy trucks. One has the 5.7r same as my 206 (except crappy automotive fuel injection). I don't remember the numbers but it droops over time until the oil is changed. Those engines called for 5w30 but I've been running the 15w40 in the 5.7 and straight 40 in summer straight 30 in winter in the 4.3z engine.

[AirTool]

I see that in both of my chevy trucks. One has the 5.7r same as my 206 (except crappy automotive fuel injection). I don't remember the numbers but it droops over time until the oil is changed. Those engines called for 5w30 but I've been running the 15w40 in the 5.7 and straight 40 in summer straight 30 in winter in the 4.3z engine.

edit: The straight weights droop rapidly as the engine warms up but less over mileage wear and tear. The multi-viscosity holds viscosity better with increasing temperature/warm up (by design) but looses viscosity over time due to additive breakdown.

trivia: the farther apart the two numbers e.g. 5w20=15 5w30=25 15w40=25 20w50=30 the more additives to break down over time.

[DanielC]

My opinion, you are better off running a straight weight oil, and allowing the engine to warm up a bit. I have also heard that the temperature to viscosity curve is more uniform on a straight weight oil. A multiviscosity oil is checked at only two temperatures, if you go above the tested maximum temperature, multivisocity oils actually thin out more than a straight weight of the same viscosity rating.