Switching Out Gauges on 2000 SAN

[Joey2000SAN]

So today I took on the project of replacing my gauges which I know is something talked about regularly on this forum. I had the stock Teleflex gauges and thought I was switching to Faria (you'll see why this was just a thought and may not actually happen).

Here is the kit I got:

a-32-1007a b FARIA CONVERSION KIT (PERFECT PASS SE JUMPER WIRE)(BLK/BLK) replaces 00-01 gauges

The first thing I did was the tachometer. This was pretty successful except it took me a little while to figure out which wire went where. The Teleflex gauges have the wires into a plug that then just plugs into the gauge. The Faria does not. So I cut the plug off and started playing with the wires a little bit with a volt meter to figure out what was what. To save others time here something I learned along the way which was a major headache for me and I wish I could have found. Black is the ground. Purple is the power (battery). Silver is the signal, and blue is the backlight. This information would have saved me a ton of time and besides figuring that out, it was a very simple switch. Check out the attached pics to see what I did... the wiring was just temporary to make sure it worked. Once it was all working I clamped them down with marine clamps and heat shrunk it all down.

So then on to the speedometer. Learning from the Tachometer, I cut the plug off (mistake 1) and saw a purple, blue and black wire. I assumed these were the same items as above and I still believe I am correct, however there was then 4 more wires. I was thinking these were the signal wires from the back, but after more research and looking around online I think these do not give the correct type of signal since Faria is looking for a paddle wheel, and not the pressure system that is standard on a 2000 Super Air Nautique. I also noticed the conversion kit even says Perfect Pass SE jumper wire, so I am pretty sure at this point this only works with a paddle wheel (which I have no intention of installing). I put this in bold so hopefully I save someone the trouble that I went through today.

My next item on the agenda is to just buy perfect pass with the gps speedo, so I am not really that concerned. I have a good tachometer now and will just use the PP as a speedo.

So my question is this... when I was testing the Speedo and trying to figure out the signal that was never going to work (yay me), I blew something. I think some wires may have touched that shouldn't have and now my boat has no power. Here are the things I have checked so far and I am wondering what I am missing:

• checked with voltmeter the battery (power is still going out)
• checked the fuse within the red wire coming out of battery and it was not burned out
• checked the breakers on the engine and they were not popped
• checked the breakers near engine for electric coming in and they were receiving electric
• checked all the breakers under the dash and none had popped
• checked electric going into the breaker box and could not get a reading

This makes me think something is going on from the back to the front but I am unaware of any other fuses or breakers in between what I already explained. Let me know if anyone has any ideas. As a BTW (but I dont think it matters since the battery was not dead) my alternator belt had snapped. Glad I found out on dry land. I picked up a new one and will replace it tomorrow. I also pulled the battery and stuck it on the trickle charge tonight.

I hope I added some good karma out here to help other when replacing their gauges but the big points are Tachometer is not that big of deal to change, just know what wire goes where. Faria speedo (atleast the one I got) needs a paddle wheel, and careful what wires touch when doing things... because your whole boat may just die.

Looking forward to hearing suggestions.

[NautiqueJeff]

Well, I can tell you that you got the incorrect kit first of all.

A-32-1008A is the kit for boats WITHOUT PerfectPass (boats with pitot tubes, like yours).

A-32-1007A is for boats WITH PerfectPass (boats with paddlewheel).

I know that doesn't help much now, but at least we know why the kit you got didn't work as planned.

http://www.nautiqueparts.com/gaugeco...extofaria.aspx

[Joey2000SAN]

Well, I can tell you that you got the incorrect kit first of all.

A-32-1008A is the kit for boats WITHOUT PerfectPass (boats with pitot tubes, like yours).

A-32-1007A is for boats WITH PerfectPass (boats with paddlewheel).

I know that doesn't help much now, but at least we know why the kit you got didn't work as planned.

http://www.nautiqueparts.com/gaugeco...extofaria.aspx

Jeff- thanks for the reply. I will contact the company I purchased from tomorrow and see if I can trade out just the speedo part (here's to hoping) and then maybe I can have a speedo sooner then later. I really want to get perfect pass but just wasn't ready to make the investment. I was hoping to figure out a deal either through a connection or group buy... What do your thoughts (or anyone else's) on having a speedo and PP? Pros and cons? My original thought was to install PP right in the middle where the nautique logo is and have analog speedo on the right with tack on the left, or replace the speedo.

Anyone have any thoughts on the no electric going to the dash? Should I post that as a separate thread?

[bhectus]

I've got the replacement Faria's in my '02 Ski and I also have PP Stargazer. I use the PP tach/speedo, it is most accurate. The Farias get close but they never seem to be spot on with the PP.

As for your boat not starting, did you check the small in-line fuse by the battery? Also, double-check your kill switch. When I installed my new radio I inadvertently pulled a wire out of the back of the kill switch. The wiring all gets pulled into big looms so that is a possibility. Or check the breaker on the back of the motor (front in your case since v-drive).

[Joey2000SAN]

I've got the replacement Faria's in my '02 Ski and I also have PP Stargazer. I use the PP tach/speedo, it is most accurate. The Farias get close but they never seem to be spot on with the PP.

As for your boat not starting, did you check the small in-line fuse by the battery? Also, double-check your kill switch. When I installed my new radio I inadvertently pulled a wire out of the back of the kill switch. The wiring all gets pulled into big looms so that is a possibility. Or check the breaker on the back of the motor (front in your case since v-drive).

Thanks for the input. I am leaning towards just having the PP, but since you did the switch with the speedo, I am curious. Did you use the kit that Jeff talked about above, for boats with pitot tubes? If so which wires went where? I am seeing the normal black, purple and blue and I know that is ground, battery, and backlight, but then there are 4 more and their colors are black and white twisted together (actually 2 wires not a tracer) and Red and black twisted together (actually 2 wires not a tracer).

Also thanks for the suggestions on items to check. I did check the in-line fuse and there was no issue there. I checked the kill switch (in the front) but I did not check the wires in back. I will double check that as well, but I don't think that is it since I was working on the dash and the kill switch is low and to the right near the stereo... but I will double check.

[Chexi]

I did this upgrade a while back, although I bought a used PP at the same time so did not have your problem. What I would say to anyone in the future looking to do this, you really don't need the speedo if you have PP. Also, if you have a 4-line display PP, it shows you MPH and RPM at the same time, so you don't need the tach either. As such, spend the money on the PP and forget the speedo and tach upgrade. You will never bother looking at them once you have the PP anyway. It will also save you from having to cut a hole in the dash.

[s_kelley2000]

I really want to get perfect pass but just wasn't ready to make the investment. I was hoping to figure out a deal either through a connection or group buy...

Here is some info on a Perfect Pass group buy on this site: http://www.planetnautique.com/vb3/sh...roup-Buy/page4

Good luck with your electrical issue. Did you check the main engine breaker on the back of your motor?

[Joey2000SAN]

Here is some info on a Perfect Pass group buy on this site: http://www.planetnautique.com/vb3/sh...roup-Buy/page4

Good luck with your electrical issue. Did you check the main engine breaker on the back of your motor?

Thank you so much for the link. I have an email out to them now. I have seen success with these group buys and I haven't seen any one cry foul yet, but I will say I am a little nervous about being scammed. If anyone else has some strong feelings one way or the other let me know.

I will check for the main engine breaker on the back tonight, but I am not sure I know what your talking about. I have the three breakers on the front of the engine and the back is the alternator belts and some other items. I dont remember ever seeing a breaker. I will check and see what I find. Thank you for the help!

[NautiqueJeff]

Thank you so much for the link. I have an email out to them now. I have seen success with these group buys and I haven't seen any one cry foul yet, but I will say I am a little nervous about being scammed. If anyone else has some strong feelings one way or the other let me know.

Jody (Florida Inboards) is a stand-up guy. No worries about being scammed with this particular deal.

[Joey2000SAN]

So I checked the breaker in the engine compartment and I dont see anything else besides the one near the back seat with three breakers. I have checked all three of these with a volt meter and they are receiving electric with the main switch on. I didn't think to check it with the main switch off but I was thinking that maybe my switch went bad? Anyone have any experience with this? If the switch has gone bad would there still be power to those breakers? My initial thought is no but maybe I am wrong.

Jeff- thanks for the endorsment of Jody. I gave him a call and he sounds very legit. I think I will be hopping on that deal.

[s_kelley2000]

The breaker(s) on the back of the engine, near the back seat are what I was referring to and it sounds like those are not your problem. I am assuming you have a GT40? Do you have a keypad or do you have a key and push button breakers on the dash(99 might have been the last year of the push button breakers)? If it's the latter, make sure the ignition breaker is pushed in because you will not have any power if that breaker is popped out. There is a chance the short fried that breaker but that is just a guess. If you determine that is your problem you can find replacements on nautiqueparts.com...don't forget to use PND for the site discount.

Being a 2000, does your boat have the on/off/bilge switch? If so that would be another good spot to check and trouble shoot.

As suggested earlier, always check the safety lanyard button and wiring on the back but in this case I don't think that is your problem because you should still have power to everything but the fuel pumps when the lanyard is disconnected. I know that is the case with a Python so I assume a GT40 or whichever motor you have is wired the same way since they all use the same fuel pumps.

[Joey2000SAN]

The breaker(s) on the back of the engine, near the back seat are what I was referring to and it sounds like those are not your problem. I am assuming you have a GT40? Do you have a keypad or do you have a key and push button breakers on the dash(99 might have been the last year of the push button breakers)? If it's the latter, make sure the ignition breaker is pushed in because you will not have any power if that breaker is popped out. There is a chance the short fried that breaker but that is just a guess. If you determine that is your problem you can find replacements on nautiqueparts.com...don't forget to use PND for the site discount.

Being a 2000, does your boat have the on/off/bilge switch? If so that would be another good spot to check and trouble shoot.

As suggested earlier, always check the safety lanyard button and wiring on the back but in this case I don't think that is your problem because you should still have power to everything but the fuel pumps when the lanyard is disconnected. I know that is the case with a Python so I assume a GT40 or whichever motor you have is wired the same way since they all use the same fuel pumps.

Thanks for the discount advise. If I figure out what parts I need I will be using that!

Yes I have the GT-40. My dash is a keypad and I have button breakers under the dash near the drivers feet. I have checked all of those and none seemed to have popped. I also checked the power going into that breaker and there isn't any. There is power going into the three breakers near the engine but nothing going into the main breakers below the dash.

I am not sure about your question about the on/ off bilge. The dash has a button a to turn it on and off and then there is also this lever with an on and off in the engine compartment, but I am not sure as to what that does or how it would apply to this?

[bhectus]

Pretty sure he is referring to the newer style boats. That 3-way toggle switch started in '02 I believe. I have it on my boat. It's below the throttle. As for not getting power to the main breaker box, what did you use to test for power? There is a relay for the ignition and rest of the accessories, you may want to check that. It should be the same size relay as the one for the fuel pumps.

[Joey2000SAN]

Yay I fixed it! Thank you everyone for their input, I really appreciate it. It turns out there is another inline fuse like the one near the battery but it is right there next to the main switch. I ended up running power directly from the battery to the main circuit breaker under the driver seat and everything worked. This ruled out any issues with the breaker and let me know I was definitely dealing with something in between the battery and that breaker. This pretty much left that switch so I was about to take it out and inspect it, when I saw the inline fuse there. It was hard to see until I was really in there with a flash light ready to take that thing a part. So a quick run up to an auto parts store where I got 5 20 amp fuses for 3 bucks and my boat is back!

[s_kelley2000]

Nice, you gotta love when it's a cheap fuse or something like that. And Bhectus is right about the bilge toggle switch that I was referring to. I thought that started in 2000 with the keypads but I am wrong.