water in oil

[AirTool]

ok finaly got heads off and its tost. block cracked between three cylenders starting at a bolt hole its bad

I guess it is possible that when everything is hot and the crack is tight...that whatever water makes it by goes out the exhaust...sucked in on intake stroke...or whatever makes it down to the oil boils out. (Although our oil temperatures really don't run that hot....but surely they are hot enough to keep a small amount of water out. )

I would think that crankcase pressure would be quite high...but I'm not sure how you would notice that on these boats. Usually you see it on old cars because oil is blown back into the air cleaner.

Anyway, just some thoughts.

[2000superair]

ok so I took the motor to a block repair shop in my town. he said that the block cracked from overheating. he has never seen freeze damage do what this has done he has ben in business for 53 years. pretty nice guy but point blank said overheating. so my question is. would over heating be a engine malfunction or not. I know changing thermostat is like a one a year thing. I changed mine when I got it thank goodness I have the receipt for when I did it last june.

[scottb7]

Thanks for sharing that it was overheating as that makes me worry less about my winterizing myself....Kind of confused by above saying thermostat is one a year thing. I never change my thermostat unless temp gauge too high. Do you mean impeller?

[ffmedic74]

Could have overheated due to bad seal at the raw water strainer too. Raw water pump wasn't able to draft water.

[charlesml3]

Lots of possibilities. Raw water strainer could have gotten stopped up. You could have sucked up a grocery bag someone "discarded" in the lake (I did once). Worn impeller.

[TX-Foilhead]

Shouldn't it throw a light on and go into limp mode when it got hot? Even my barely computerized ProTec would have done that. I'm betting you lost the impeller last time out, just curious as to why it wasn't noticed before the damage was done.

[2000superair]

no impeller looks great.

[gun-driver]

First off who told you that you need to replace the thermostat every year
Second I doubt the insurance company is going to pay for an over heat.

[gun-driver]

I bought this boat last year and we put 130 hrs on it winterized it put it in the garage and didn't use it for three months. got it out de winterized checked oil looked like I just changed it. took it to the lake ran it all day brought it home used it four more days put a grand total of 32.6 hours on it. I got the wild hair to go ahead and change oil and put new thermostat in and impeller as I have always done on all of my boats every year. pulled the dipstick and milk so then I started tearing down. I called insurance to see what coverage I had and the adjuster has not come to look at it yet but what I am thinking is one of the lifters stuck and it poped. insurance adjuster said he has never seen any boat run that long with cracked block the good thing is we have pictures of each outing when we were at lake and some of the pictures show dates and my gages that oil pressure is at 40 and temp gage is at 160 running. my insurance will cover foulty equitment but will not cover freeze. as I said I think the lifter stuck and their she went it wouldn't even turn over after I saw the milk so I don't know the heads are fine had them checked and pressure tested as well as the manifolds. all their checks out. no cracks at all in valley area or outside of motor crack is pretty big starting out in number 3 cylinder and spiderwebed out to both adjasent cylenders next to it and up to bolt holes for head and acrose to water jacket. I can pull peaces out from cylinder walls piton has a pretty good ding in it and plug is crushed

I don't know who your trying to BS I'm guessing your insurance company but you froze that block. Why you would come on here asking for help while not being totally honest I don't know. Below is your quote from another thread

" same thing happened to me but I had 32 hours on it this year after the poped freez plug now im buying a new motor I will say my readings were fine and ran good for 32 hours then went"

[bhectus]

Wow. And people wonder why insurance is so expensive.

[2000superair]

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yes I did have two freeze plugs come out. and yes I did winterize it. after taking it to my local dealer with no anifrieze in it because of guess what no freeze plugs my dealer who is my friend helped me winterize it and said I guess they had deteriated around wher they seal. he camed it and said everything looks great no cracks no nothing. he said there is some antifreeze still in the motor. so yes I did get it checked out. the proper way. after running it after that had happened we ran the boat oil looked great rang for 5 more hours oil looked good again. took it out and it overheated and yes the temp light did come on as previously asked in this thred not another one this one. pulled the thermostat and the actual housing was lodged in the assembly. changed it and continued running for 32.6 hours no more problems not over heating or anything. pulled the oil drain plug and wow now I have milk. took it to a block specialist and he said how hot did it get due to the nature of the crack and wher it is at he said it overheated so its not up to me ore you to determine how it cracked but its their. hints why I asked the questios in this thred. water in oil. not blown freeze plugs. then getting my thred blown up by gun driver nice. and insurance is high because people to try to bs them I agree. but its not high because I have freeze or engine melfuction coverage I thought I didn't have freeze but do.

[gun-driver]

Ok first I think we need to correct some terminology. The so called freeze plugs are actually core plugs and have nothing to do with protecting your block from freezing. Maybe you should read this -http://http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/cooling/cool_105.htm
And this http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Core_plug#Freeze_plug_myth
Freeze plug myth[edit]
"A true freeze plug would be an expansion plug located in the side of an engine block that is supposed to protect the block against freeze damage. Water expands when it turns to ice, and if the coolant does not have enough antifreeze protection it can freeze and crack the engine block. The freeze plugs (there are usually several) will supposedly pop out under such conditions, to relieve internal pressure on the block.
As far as can be determined[citation needed] this is an "urban legend". No manufacturer has come forward and stated that the holes in the side of any engine block are there for freeze protection. It is possible and even likely, that freezing water will push a core plug out. If the water doesn't freeze solid it is possible that there will be no damage to the block, but in most cases of a "hard freeze", the water jackets in the block will be cracked as well."

So this is how I read the scenario...
You found the core plugs popped checked the oil and since the water was on the bottom of the pan you thought you escaped a disaster. Took the boat to your buddy to replace the core plugs. Used the boat for 32 hours with water in the oil until you blew the plug apart from detonation due to water seeping into the cylinder and trashed a piston. When the motor went into limp mode you checked things over and found the milkshake, checked your insurance and was worried they would not cover a freeze claim but would cover a mechanical failure. So you came here to fish for ways to claim a mechanical failure.
The way I came to this conclusion is the lack of the whole truth about the core plugs being popped the statement of the temps being normal(until your last post which you now claim it did overheat)
But earlier you said it couldn't have been an overheat because you have pictures showing normal oil pressure and temps on every outing. So then you came up with the stuck lifter scenario again looking for a mechanical failure angle, but we know that couldn't be it because you said the boat ran great except for a little miss at idle. We'll if you did have a stuck lifter it would not be running great and would be making all sorts of nasty noises and I seriously doubt it would crack the block.
So hoping for the overheat mechanical failure angle you asked if an over heat would be considered a mechanical failure. Hoping for that angle you went to your block guy with a bunch of half truths that led him down the path to the overheat diagnosis so you could use his statement for insurance. I'm guessing if you would have told him about the popped plugs his diagnosis would have been different.
So now that you discovered you have coverage for both freeze damage and mechanical damage all is good.
Good luck in the future hope you learned something out of this whole ordeal.

[2000superair]

Fist off I came on here to ask what could of happend to cause the issue I have had. You have turned everything I have said to they way you want to hear it make I'm not correctly explaining it or something. I'm not searching for a way to blame anything on something else I have posted what I have Ben told from certified mechanics. I have asked questions and get responses saying I am trying to forge something. Although this might get edited as well. The claims adjuster did know the freeze plugs came out because I told him exactly what I knew to be truthfull and time line of what and how things happend. It is up to him on what had happend but his words this looks like an overheating issue. And no their was no milk in this motor until after it overheated.

[scottb7]

All i got to say is maybe I will start changing the oil at beginning of season when i get the boat back from storage instead of end of season before storing. Then I can be sure there is no water in the oil at season start. But i guess reality is that with proper draining (with or without) back filling for antifreeze the chance of engine damage should be nil.

Plus I check the oil almost every time I use the boat so I think I would catch the water in oil pretty quick, although my understanding is a small amount can be burned off by normal engine temps.

[gun-driver]

Scott you should still change the oil prior to storing. The old oil has acids, un-burned fuel caused from blow bye and other contaminates that you don't want sitting in your motor for extended periods of time.
Change the oil before storage then in the spring fire it up check over everything for leaks and such then check your oil. If you did a good job of winterizing there shouldn't be any problems and checking the engine and transmission oil daily before use is a good habit.