Rudder Packing and Grease?

[BrennanK]

I am getting ready to install a new steering cable in my 97; I figured I should probably do some rudder maintenance while I’m in there. I had a few questions before I get into it though.

My 97 does not have a zerk fitting on the rudder mount, is that something that I should consider adding? How would I go about doing that? I have searched around a little and some say grease it, others say don’t bother. Why is that?

I have never done rudder packing before so I am not sure how tight to get it? With my drive shaft I usually go for a few dips per minute. What is the rule of thumb for the rudder?

Side thought: What are people’s thoughts on switching to the new style steering cable? Are there any benefits to getting the new cable and helm base assembly?

Thanks all!

[DanielC]

In my experiance, you rarely really need to change the rudder packing. The rudder does not turn that much. Packing lasts for hundreds, if not thousands of hours ona propeller shaft, turning thousands of RPM.

A few drips a minuite or less, would be fine. The reason for the water drips on a propeller shaft is to keep the packing cool, on a shaft, that is turning, well, see above.

To grease your rudder, support it from below. Take the pittman arm off the rudder, and it will fall out. You may need to turn the rudder one way or another to clear your trailer.
I use Mercury Marine 2-4-C grease, this stuff.

I think the new style of helm and cable is a better one, or why would Correct Craft make the change?

[Zach@n3]

Grease that puppy up. It'll be the smoothest thing you've ever felt with a new cable. You can add that fitting if you'd like. There is a service whip kit that you can add I can supply. Makes it easy to give it a pump of grease per year. Excess grease will just run out of the bottom of the rudder port. I believe the larger rack gear makes for slightly smoother steering and less effort. It was a change on Teleflex's part not Correct Craft. Other benefits of cable change would be cheaper than the normal cable and cheaper subsequent cable replacements in the future. I think after you buy the new helm stub and cable you still come in like 20-30 bucks cheaper than the S2205.

[bhectus]

Here's a step-by-step I did on ccfan a while back. It's easy to do and I have pictures for you to help.

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum....asp?TID=25087

[jhersey29]

I did the cable and repacked the rudder box this winter. bhectus post was awesome in helping me with the rudder packing. I used the GFO for new packing. It is very reasonable in price. I lightly greased up to about where the GFO would touch the rudder shaft by hand. The boat had a zerts fitting that was rusted shut. I just picked up new one at the automotive store. The zerts size was 1/4" x 28 straight. The very tip of it protruded into the rudder shaft area. I removed it and filed the tip off just to where the threads started and all is well. If you wanted to add one you would drill a hole in the tube that goes through the hull and use a tap(http://www.sears.com/widia-gtd-hand-...2&blockType=G2) to add threads to the new hole. The drill bit would most likely be a 13/64" for 1/4" tap but not 100% positive. I don't know if I would go through the hassle of drilling and tapping to add the zerts. The tolerances are very tight for the rudder shaft and steering tube. It sure won't hold very much grease. After all this my steering is like butter and I love it.