50 hour maintenance

[Tjca77]

Guys, I am a new Nautique inboard owner, so I hope this isn't a dumb question.

What are you guys paying for oil, filter, transmission and raw water impeller changes? I have a dd 2000 air nautique with a gt-40 in it.

I have some experience changing the oil on an I/O myself but don't have any on an inboard.

First time around I thought I would try the closest Nautique dealer and the guy quotes me $700.00 for the service. This sounds unreasonable to me.

If anyone could point me the right direction of a good marina with reasonable service around Atlanta (lake Lanier) I would appreciate it.

Maybe I should attempt it myself?

[Paxdad]

Thats is insanely $$$ high. The parts alone should not be more than $34 for impeller kit, $4 for filter, and $15 for oil. Since that is a direct drive it should be extremely easy to access everything. Did MarineMax quote that?

[core-rider]

Really no different than changing it in your I/O other than the engine might be easier to access. Run the engine to warm up the oil and make it easier to drain. There should be a drain hose attached to the oil pan that you can route down through the bilge drain hole and into a drain pan on the ground under the boat. Change the filter, put the drain hose back in place after draining, re-fill with oil. You could also use a pump to pump the oil out of the engine through the dipstick tube. Transmission also has a drain plug, but it can be difficult and messy. I prefer you use a pump and suck it up through the dipstick hole. The impeller is fairly easy and your service manual (if you have it) should instruct you how to replace it.

$700 seems expensive, but I never trust anyone to work on my stuff... Plus I'm too cheap and would rather spend to few hours it takes to make sure it's done right.

Here are links to the service manual... http://www.planetnautique.com/Correc...e%20Manual.pdf
and 2000 Pro Air owner's manual... http://www.planetnautique.com/Correc.../2000sport.pdf

[Nautiquehunter]

I live near that dealer give me a call and I will show you how to do it yourself.

Mike 678-227-8833

[Tjca77]

Yep, that is where the quote came from.

Corerider, you are right the I/O was a PITA to drain the oil from block and get the drain pan from the bilge.

[Peppylapuew]

Tjca77 your looking around $100 in material. Its a breeze to do all of them except the transmission. There are several threads on here arguing the correct way of changing transmission fluid. I have attached a thread about changing Transmission fluid and the other is a owners manual for your boat. It explains changing oil. Here are part numbers for impellers. Sherwood Part# SHE-09959K or you can buy the PCM impeller kit which is part# RP061015 same thing in both kits. Oil filter part number for a ****ty FRAM is PH8A or a nice WIX Filter is 51515. Hope this helps in your decision making.

Owners Manual: http://www.planetnautique.com/Correc.../2000sport.pdf

Here is a tranny oil thread: http://www.planetnautique.com/vb3/sh...smission+fluid

[Tjca77]

Thanks guys for all the information.

Mike I will give you a call.


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[DanielC]

Use motorcraft FL1-A oil filter. Drain the oil out overnight, then remove the filter. Much less oil pours into the bilge that way.
Use Valvoline VR-1 40 weight racing oil. the GT-40 engine needs an oil with high zinc, and phosporus because of the older camshaft lifters.

For $700.00 I probably could fly to Atlanta, change the fluids, and the impeller, and have money lkeft over for a very nice dinner.

[MichaelD]

I previously paid a dealer to do the work, but after seeing how simple it is on a DD, I do all the routine maintenance myself...and I know it is done right + I don't have to work around a dealer's schedule (I bought my boat w/o trailer, so they get to do haul-out if I were to take it to them & loose precious water time). I think all that might run $300-$350 adjusting for inflation from the last time my dealer touched the boat. $700 is absurd. You can do it for under $100 + some of your time.
I even bought a Jabsco pump (~100-150) for changing the oil & tranny fluid & it keeps all the used oil in its embedded bucket & no chance for it to spray all over the boat; reverse the switch on land to pump into disposal container.
I personally pay the few extra bucks for the PCM filter over Motorcraft filters, but I know quite a few people use the 3rd-party filters. PCM filters can be bought from both NautiqueParts.com aka WhiteLake (PN sponsor w/ discount code) and SkiDim (not a forum sponsor).

[Zach@n3]

Just for fun, we do a premium direct drive winterization for only 315....... That includes oil and filter, fuel filter change, sta-bil, freeze protection, check of transmission fluid, and disconnecting the battery terminals. So 700 bucks............ Yikes.

[s_kelley2000]

Wow MarineMax should be ashamed of that quote! As others have said a direct drive is very easy to work on and it's well under $100 for parts. It's a good idea to get yourself a good pump vac ($80-100) to make the fluid changes easier, cleaner and quicker. Sounds like Mike is willing to help out which is always great to have somebody around that knows what they are doing the first time you get in there. On the GT40 it is possible to install the water pump upside down so I have heard a lot of owners put a mark to indicate the top if they are going to remove it to make changing the impeller easier.

Check your owners manual to be sure but I think the oil and filter change are the only things that PCM recommends at 50 hour intervals. I think they recommend 100 hours on the transmission fluid but the direct drive transmission is a different ratio than the transmission on the v dirves so check your owners manual. Impellers definitely don't need to be done at 50 hour intervals. Some people say to do it every spring. I have been doing every other spring and have never had an issue with one breaking down on me and I typically put on 75-100 hours a season.

[AirTool]

You can do it for under $100 + some of your time.

I'm willing to bet that, for most of us, it takes less time to do the work than than the time spent taking it somewhere.

I can do almost anything in my driveway on any of my vehicles in less time than taking it somewhere. I changed the front pads on my super crew last week in less than 1.5 hours. It would have taken me more time to drive to the dealer I use either twice to drop off and pick up or, worse yet, wait for it.

[jtryon]

do yourself a favor and pick up a good fluid extractor (moeller) for $100 and drain the engine oil and tranny fluid in 10 minutes versus hours waiting for all the old oil to drain through the tube. i agree with everyone else, $700 is ridiculous. i just drained my oil after first start-up a couple weeks ago and it took about 2 hours, and i still had almost 2 qts showing on the dipstick. get the fluid extractor so you don't have to do the overnight thing and all the other parts as stated by the others, and you're still $500 cheaper than that dealer quoted.

[DanielC]

I still suggest letting the oil drain overnight on a GT-40. You get more dirty oil out of the engine, and if you remove the oil filter after the engine sites overnigth, a lot less oil runs into the bilge of the boat. That saves time cleaning the bilge.

Every shop, and car dealership pushes a 10 minuite, or "quick" oil change for one reason. To beat a flat labor rate. Besides if a quart of oil is left in the engine, they have to put a quart less oil back in the engine to get the oil level correct.

[Tjca77]

Definitely going to do this myself.

I don't mind putting the time into it plus as a number of you have mentioned I don't have to trailer to a shop and wait for them, and worry it wasn't done right.

Once I get all the parts together, it doesn't seem like too difficult a project.

I have maintenance records that the previous owner performed some of this service in April 2013, I just don't know how many hour's were put on the boat since. I would rather start fresh and knock out all of it than run into a problem down the road.

Thanks for all the advice, I will update the post with the results.

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