50 hour maintenance

[mosh706]

Quick filter tip. Loosen filter, place ziplock back around filter, remove filter! No oil in the bilge.

[s_kelley2000]

I have maintenance records that the previous owner performed some of this service in April 2013, I just don't know how many hour's were put on the boat since. I would rather start fresh and knock out all of it than run into a problem down the road.

Oh ya that is a great idea to do everything now so you can start fresh. I forgot it was a new boat to you when I made my comment about the transmission fluid interval being longer than 50 hrs. I did the same when I bought my boat. You may also want to do plugs, wires, cap and rotor if you are not sure when they were last done and they look to have some age on them.

[DanielC]

"Quick filter tip. Loosen filter, place ziplock back around filter, remove filter! No oil in the bilge. "

That is easy on a GM engine, with a remote filter. Not so much on a Gt-40. Believe me, with 2510 hours on my boat, and I have done most of the oil changes, I have figured out what works best for me. Your results may vary.

[s_kelley2000]

Believe me, with 2510 hours on my boat, and I have done most of the oil changes, I have figured out what works best for me.

I don't know, you have only done 50 oil changes on your boat, not sure we can trust you............JK

Very impressive hours!

[bhectus]

Use motorcraft FL1-A oil filter. Drain the oil out overnight, then remove the filter. Much less oil pours into the bilge that way.
Use Valvoline VR-1 40 weight racing oil. the GT-40 engine needs an oil with high zinc, and phosporus because of the older camshaft lifters.

+1 Or Shell Rotella you can buy at Wal-Mart by the gallon. It also has the required amount of ZDDP in it and is more wallet friendly. I've always used VR-1 in my Fords but the Rotella has gotten great reviews from many. You really can't go wrong with either. The FL1A filter is inexpensive and you can find it pretty much anywhere. Changing oil on a GT40 is easier than doing it in your car or truck. Impeller change is 15-20 minutes max. Tip on when you are putting new impeller in is to put a little soapy water on it to help ease it into the water pump. Don't worry about the direction of the vanes as once the pump spins it they will right themselves on their own.
One more tip I always employ is write the engine hours with a Sharpie on the filter and you'll never have to wonder when you last changed it. Unless your hour meter breaks!

[AirTool]

Op - I'm on a jobsite now and my time comes and goes with work activity. But I will try to link up some good notes and images of equipment you should just get right now to make all this easier and faster and better and whatever. From the pump to some simple brass fittings and tubing, you will be an expert at extracting fluids. If I forget. Remind me next week.

Note 1: do not stick a piece of poly tubing down into your tranny.

Note 2: not sure what fuel filter you have, but if it is the spin on FCC canister, you're in for some fun. But don't give up yet.

[Tjca77]

DanielC, if I let the oil drain overnight do I still need to run the boat to heat up the oil before draining it? The reason I ask is I am not on the lake. If needed it isn't a problem to hook up and drop in.

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[scottb7]

Quick filter tip. Loosen filter, place ziplock back around filter, remove filter! No oil in the bilge.

The above tip works!!!! Give some time for the lines to drain into the bag...Also be careful where you lay the bag. Seems like no matter how careful I am I get a leaky ziplock bag.

I just changed my oil this week in about 50 degree weather and did not bother warming up the engine first. I get that whole suspend everything in the warm oil theory. But I felt I would get more old oil out if I did not get it all pumped up around the engine and then waited for it drain back down. I just got it all from where it settled down to the pan over last day or so.

I just use one of these with a fitting at the bottom to attach to the remote line. Pump it out into an empty antifreeze bottle. Just under one gallon out, and a full gallon back in to account for the filter. So it is like $5 for the filter and $15 for the oil. (Rotella T 15 w 40).

[Zach@n3]

I am not a fan of an oil drain over night. That leaves the possibility of the sump pickup to begin to lose prime causing a longer time on initial start up with no oil pressure (possibly). Daniel has the hours to show it's probably ok but not something I ever do. Get the oil hot and drain it and it should be as out as it can get in 15-25 minutes. It just takes forever to drain if it is cold oil. The best way is to suck it out via the drain whip but the bucket/drain pump for those are somewhere between 200-300 bucks so for average Joes like us that aren't in a high production scenario that doesn't really make sense. Direct drive services are about as simple as it gets.

[DanielC]

"Need" is such a strong word. No, you do not need to warm the engne up. But you should. Warm oil flows a lot faster, and more importantly, the closer to having just ran the engine, the more stuff in the oil pan is stirred up.
If I have the time, and the boat ramp is not busy, this is what I do. I put the boat on the trailer, still in the water. Hook up a pump to suck oil out of the engine, through the drain hose. Restart the engine with the boat still in the water, and run 2000 to 3000 RPM, for about 30 seconds. Kill the engine, suck out hot oil. About 3 to 3 1/2 quarts come out.
Take the boat home, about 4 miles. Park boat in carport, and try to suck more oil out of engine with pump. I get some more oil. disconncet pump, thread drain hose out bottom of boat, and put it in a container to catch oil coming out, less than a quart.
then let boat sit overnight.

The following morning, pour about a half quart of oil into new FL1-A oil filter. Put old towels down on port side of boat, by engine. Carefully set new oil filter, with oil in it by engine. Put an old rag or two in bilge, under filter mount on engine. Use filter wrench, if necessary to just loosen old oil filter. Take a rag, old sock or something and wrap it around the base of the old oil filter, and remove old oil filter. When filter comes off, hold it open end up. Set old oil filter on running board, outside of boat. CHECK TO MAKE SURE THE OIL FILTER GASKET STAYED WITH THE OLD OIL FILTER! Make sure the old oil filter gasket is not stuck to the oil filter mount on the engine. Carefully screw new filter on with oil in it. Tighten it up as far as you can with one hand. Pull oil drain hose back up into engine compartment, and thread it away from the harmonic balancer on the front of the engine, and secure it. Be careful with the brass cap on the oil drain hose going by the alternator.
Put four quarts of oil back into engine. With the oil you put in the filter, that makes 4 1/2 quarts total.
The next time you launch the boat, start the engine, check for oil leaks around the oil filter. Shut engine off, wait about 30 seconds, to a minute, and check the oil level on the dipstick, and add oil if necessary.

[Paxdad]

Guys, I am a new Nautique inboard owner, so I hope this isn't a dumb question.

What are you guys paying for oil, filter, transmission and raw water impeller changes? I have a dd 2000 air nautique with a gt-40 in it.

I have some experience changing the oil on an I/O myself but don't have any on an inboard.

First time around I thought I would try the closest Nautique dealer and the guy quotes me $700.00 for the service. This sounds unreasonable to me.

If anyone could point me the right direction of a good marina with reasonable service around Atlanta (lake Lanier) I would appreciate it.

Maybe I should attempt it myself?

Did you ever take NautiqueHunter up on his offer? Highly recommend you take advantage of his kind offer!!

[Tjca77]

I did. He is a wealth of great information. We plan on getting together to knock this out after I have sourced the parts. Thanks for the reminder. So appreciative of Mike and everyones willingness to help a fellow Nautique owner out.

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[Tjca77]

I live near that dealer give me a call and I will show you how to do it yourself.

Mike 678-227-8833

Mike
Took care of the oil change, no problem, you were right easy to do with the hose thru the bilge. Dropped a paper towel in the bildge and fould a transmission leak. I think it may be a gasket. Went to hook up and drop in and broke my hitch coupler so I am getting that fixed by Country Boys in Cumming. Any ideas on the transmission leak? Sorry to bug you, hopefully you are our this weekend in the boat.
Thanks
TJ
6789847993

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[DanielC]

Try tightening up the bolts holding the transmission cases together.

[Tjca77]

Noticed this hose was damp with Dex this morning. Is it supposed to be this way? When I wipe with a paper towel on the tranny, it get a little pink on the towel, when I wipe where the hose attaches to the pump???, I get the same remnants. Picture is where it attaches to the pump. I am not much of an engine guy(trying to learn). Thanks fir the help. I am also putting a wrench on all the bolts, but this appears to be the source.

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