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For machinery such as engine and transmission, the respective manufacturers have recommendations that should be followed. Use your owner’s manuals to see what needs to be done for your particular engine and transmission.
In general, engine oil should be changed at least annually. If you find that your usage approaches or exceeds 100 hours a year, a mid-season oil change is in order. Always change the oil filter when you change the oil. For annual oil changes, the fall is the best time, right before the engine is laid up for the winter. That way the engine is stored with fresh, clean oil protecting those expensive moving parts. This is also a good time to replace the fuel filters. Note any evidence of fuel contamination and look in to having the fuel tank cleaned if there is evidence of contamination.
The engine cooling water pump has a rubber-like impeller that needs to be replaced periodically. Usage patterns dictate how often but at least every third year. Running an impeller dry by starting the engine while the boat is out of the water and not on a flushing hose will destroy a new impeller in just over 30 seconds.
Transmissions also need periodic oil changes. See the manufacturer’s recommendations, typically based on operating hours.
Belts and hoses are wear items that must be periodically replaced. Inspection is the best indicator of condition rather than any given fixed time interval. Hose clamps have a vulnerability to crevice corrosion. This is a corrosion process that takes place in the absence of Oxygen on stainless steel. The outside of the clamp will look perfectly normal but the underside against the hose can be eaten completely away. The first sign of trouble is when the clamp snaps. Removal and inspection is the only way to find this problem ahead of time.
Shaft and rudder packing are also service items that require periodic inspection and maintenance. This is best left to professionals.
Cutless bearings located in the strut just in front of the propeller support the propeller shaft. These bearings are made of a rubber-like material and are typically long lived but usage in sandy water can shorten the life of this bearing. With the boat out of the water and the engine off, grab the propeller and try to move it side to side and up and down. Watch the shaft where it exits the strut just in front of the propeller. A slight amount of movement is normal but if you see noticeable movement, have a professional check it out. Replacement of the cutless bearing requires special tools and this job is best left to a professional. With the right tools, the bearing can be replaced without removing the strut or the propeller shaft.
If your propeller has collected nicks and dings, pull it and send it to a propeller reconditioning shop. It should come back looking and performing like a brand new propeller.
Keep trash and debris out of the bilge. Clean and inspect your bilges periodically and while you are down there, make sure that the automatic bilge pump works properly
The gel coat should be protected by a good coat of wax. How the boat is stored makes a big difference in how often wax needs to be applied.
Upholstery should be cleaned and treated with one of the many preservation products on the market. The Ultraviolet radiation in sunlight is particularly hard on both upholstery and gel coat.
Do not forget to service your trailer. A wheel bearing failure, at best, will leave you stranded on the side of the road. At worst it can lead to an accident or theft of the entire boat and trailer while you are off looking for replacement parts.
Finally, make sure the drain plug is installed BEFORE you launch the boat. Remember to remove the plug when you are storing the boat on land.
In general, engine oil should be changed at least annually. If you find that your usage approaches or exceeds 100 hours a year, a mid-season oil change is in order. Always change the oil filter when you change the oil. For annual oil changes, the fall is the best time, right before the engine is laid up for the winter. That way the engine is stored with fresh, clean oil protecting those expensive moving parts. This is also a good time to replace the fuel filters. Note any evidence of fuel contamination and look in to having the fuel tank cleaned if there is evidence of contamination.
The engine cooling water pump has a rubber-like impeller that needs to be replaced periodically. Usage patterns dictate how often but at least every third year. Running an impeller dry by starting the engine while the boat is out of the water and not on a flushing hose will destroy a new impeller in just over 30 seconds.
Transmissions also need periodic oil changes. See the manufacturer’s recommendations, typically based on operating hours.
Belts and hoses are wear items that must be periodically replaced. Inspection is the best indicator of condition rather than any given fixed time interval. Hose clamps have a vulnerability to crevice corrosion. This is a corrosion process that takes place in the absence of Oxygen on stainless steel. The outside of the clamp will look perfectly normal but the underside against the hose can be eaten completely away. The first sign of trouble is when the clamp snaps. Removal and inspection is the only way to find this problem ahead of time.
Shaft and rudder packing are also service items that require periodic inspection and maintenance. This is best left to professionals.
Cutless bearings located in the strut just in front of the propeller support the propeller shaft. These bearings are made of a rubber-like material and are typically long lived but usage in sandy water can shorten the life of this bearing. With the boat out of the water and the engine off, grab the propeller and try to move it side to side and up and down. Watch the shaft where it exits the strut just in front of the propeller. A slight amount of movement is normal but if you see noticeable movement, have a professional check it out. Replacement of the cutless bearing requires special tools and this job is best left to a professional. With the right tools, the bearing can be replaced without removing the strut or the propeller shaft.
If your propeller has collected nicks and dings, pull it and send it to a propeller reconditioning shop. It should come back looking and performing like a brand new propeller.
Keep trash and debris out of the bilge. Clean and inspect your bilges periodically and while you are down there, make sure that the automatic bilge pump works properly
The gel coat should be protected by a good coat of wax. How the boat is stored makes a big difference in how often wax needs to be applied.
Upholstery should be cleaned and treated with one of the many preservation products on the market. The Ultraviolet radiation in sunlight is particularly hard on both upholstery and gel coat.
Do not forget to service your trailer. A wheel bearing failure, at best, will leave you stranded on the side of the road. At worst it can lead to an accident or theft of the entire boat and trailer while you are off looking for replacement parts.
Finally, make sure the drain plug is installed BEFORE you launch the boat. Remember to remove the plug when you are storing the boat on land.
