2001 pcm gt 40

[mike-d]

I have a no start issue?
new plugs, rotor, cap, hall pickup. new impeller and fuel filter.

I get 39pds at fuel rail. have spark at coil and plugs. Distributor timed to tdc, with rotor pointing at # 1 on cap.

Nada, nothing, just turns over, will not fire up. changed out plugs again, nada, just cranks? Does this sound like a bad ecm?

boat ran fine two weekends ago, impeller went out on boat, temp gauge slowly started to rise, never over 200, parked it on lift and stopped boat. following monday, changed out bad impeller, fuel filter, new plugs, etc, etc. boat does not start. Changed out hall pickup / distributor, no start. nada. optima battery at over 12. 5 volts, good spark etc. help? any ideas? has compression, injectors are fine. Ran like a top two weekends ago, started on first push of start button, now nada....... boat has 600 hrs on fresh water lake.

thanks,
Mike

[s_kelley2000]

Just guessing but is there a chance that you mixed up some plug wires when you were replacing? Or perhaps your distributor got 180 out? Did you replace the whole unit or just the cap and rotor? Good luck and hopefully it's something simple.

[GCSuper]

The theory of it ran fine till I did " this " to it applies here. Go back and double and triple check what you did.

[mike-d]

seriously, it ran fine until the impeller went out, luckily it was a jabsco version and the internals broke away from the impeller, so it just spun in the housing. Everything was changed over with the impeller, annual change over. Only thing I can think of is some sensor is causing it not to fire? ecm? but that was changed out a couple of summers ago when vince diagnosed it over the phone.
this 2001 san has never let me down for 12 years straight, this is the first time it has had me stumped on not starting etc.

Mike

[vonzipper]

Check the lanyard kill switch, shuts off fuel pumps, you can try connecting the two wires for a quick try

[SilentSeven]

Just guessing but is there a chance that you mixed up some plug wires when you were replacing? Or perhaps your distributor got 180 out? Did you replace the whole unit or just the cap and rotor? Good luck and hopefully it's something simple.

This sounds plausible. If you have fuel and spark at the cylinder, timing is a critical thing to check and if something is reversed, it could behave like this. You may want to confirm your injectors are actually firing by getting a noid light to verify the injector signal - it's possible you have some sort of safety cutoff taking place preventing the injector signal.

EDIT: Hmm...reread and saw note on setting engine at TDC and rotor at plug one. That would suggest timing is in the area. I would check fuel in the cylinder. If you are actually getting fuel when you crank, you should have gassy plugs or even wet plugs. My guess is that your injectors are not firing for some reason.

[Banffskiing]

You could remove the flame arrestor and squirt some fuel directly into the throttle body with butterfly valve open.
If it fires then you for sure have an injector issue.

[DanielC]

Crank the engine, and go and smell the exhaust. Smell gas, possibily a ignition issue. Do not smell gas, possibily a fuel problem.

It is very easiy to get plug wires placed wrong when changing the cap and rotor, or plug wires.

[jhersey29]

Still down and out? Curious to know you solved the problem
Sent from my RM-877_nam_att_205 using Tapatalk

[mike-d]

Jay from Nautique of orlando figured it out, came out dockside and worked the distributor to find tdc etc. It was a tooth off one way or the other, so it did not fire, once found, the boat starts right up etc. New, plugs, distributor, rotor, fuel filter, oil, smiling kids ready to be pulled, priceless......... moral of the story.....dont take out your distributor without making sharpie marks on the **** thing!