GT40 Distributor part numbers for getting automotive replacements

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  • SilentSeven
    1,000 Post Club Member
    • Feb 2014
    • 1843

    • Bellevue WA

    • 2004 Nautique 206

    GT40 Distributor part numbers for getting automotive replacements

    This may help someone in the future. Numbers to lookup a replacement distributor - all of these numbers should cross to the same unit

    This is specific to 1997 GT-40 engine.

    Ford Part Number - F1TZ12127C (NLA)
    Motorcraft number - DA2065 (didn't check this, supplied by my Ford dealer)
    Cardone Part number (remanufactured Ford Part) - 302891
    NAPA Part number (remanufactured) - 48-2891

    RockAuto sells the cardone unit for about $65, NAPA generally has stock of their part and it sells for about $100 or so.

    You'll want to inspect your unit carefully to confirm it has the cast iron gear. There seems to be a version with a steel gear and they are not interchangeable. Don't know if these units were also used in marine applications or not.

    Part numbers above are all for a cast iron gear unit.
    2004 206 Air Nautique Limited - Black with Vapor Blue (family style)
    1997 Masters Edition Nautique - Zephyr Green - gone (amazing ski wake)
    1982 Mastercraft Powerslot - gone (a primitive but wonderful beast)
    Bellevue WA
  • SilentSeven
    1,000 Post Club Member
    • Feb 2014
    • 1843

    • Bellevue WA

    • 2004 Nautique 206

    #2
    Picture of the factory marking on my distributor. Ford dealer used these numbers to give me the part numbers above.Click image for larger version

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    2004 206 Air Nautique Limited - Black with Vapor Blue (family style)
    1997 Masters Edition Nautique - Zephyr Green - gone (amazing ski wake)
    1982 Mastercraft Powerslot - gone (a primitive but wonderful beast)
    Bellevue WA

    Comment

    • jhersey29
      • Nov 2013
      • 330

      • Colorado

      • 1971 Correct Craft Mustang 1988 Ski Nautique 1992 Ski Nautique 1999 Ski Nautique

      #3
      I picked up a refurbished one from Napa and still had intermittent hard start issues(hot and cold). It finally wouldn't start at all today. 2 weeks after installing the refurbished distributor. I found that the refurbished one from Napa had a loose pickup in it. There was no visible way to tighten it. I am not sure of the quality but I put in a Duralast BDLG-FD14 New distributor. The pickup was tight with zero movement. If you have trouble with yours or a refurbished one take off the rotating cap that looks like an upside down cup with notches cut in the sides. It has 2 1/4" bolts holding it in place. You can't put it back on wrong since it has slots that match up. If the pickup across from the magnet or magnet moves at all you have a bad distributor. The pickup is sensitive and needs to maintain a constant distance from the magnet and from the rotating notches.

      Information was very helpful from PCM that talked about the sensor moving in older units causing issues. It was hard to believe at first since it was new and then talk myself into trying another one but 1st try it started with the Duralast. Timed it to 5 degrees before TDC with SPOUT removed.

      Also now that this the 2nd one I have put in in a short time. I found it best to remove the ignition coil wire, remove the cap, leave wires on the cap, pull cap out of the way, and rotate the engine using a socket and breaker bar. Rotate the engine(clockwise with the breaker bar) until the timing marks line up to TDC. Also the rotor should be pointed at the 1 mark in the distributor and will also line up with the magnet and pickup. This makes putting the new one in very easy. If you don't have TDC and rotor at 1 spark plug position you will be off in degrees. The distributor rotates at half the speed of the crank so keep turning. Don't just point the rotor at 1. Make sure the timing marks are also lined up close to TDC timing marks. If you just stop at the rotor at 1 with out TDC on timing marks you could be 180 degrees off.

      Comment

      • vortech347
        • Mar 2004
        • 95

        • Central Texas

        • 99 Sport Nautique - GT40 - FCT2 tower

        #4
        The gear material is very important. If your original gear is cast iron then the new one has to be the same.

        Good info.

        Comment

        • FMSKI
          • Aug 2010
          • 177

          • Sproat Lake

          • 07 SV211 Ltd 343 Sold (Ski 200, TSC1, 2001)

          #5
          I have what feels like an ignition miss. Didn't have that last year. My distributor is quite rusty tho, so would like to replace in any case. Have a code reader, shows no faults.
          Am I safe with this one? 1997 GT40

          https://www.ebay.ca/itm/255661989485...Bk9SR-y607DbYA

          Comment

          • FMSKI
            • Aug 2010
            • 177

            • Sproat Lake

            • 07 SV211 Ltd 343 Sold (Ski 200, TSC1, 2001)

            #6
            My new distributor is installed and I used this part : Cardone Part number (remanufactured Ford Part) - 302891

            Runs great to say 58 km/h after that I have some weird throttle response, sometimes not getting to WOT either. This morning I checked my distributor pickup - it's good and tight. My old distributor would run at WOT.
            I did order a Duralast distributor off ebay, for $50.

            Update - did a fuel pressure test and found that past 58Km/h my pressure just dropped off to 20 PSI. So new injectors and pressure reg are going in.
            Last edited by FMSKI; 09-28-2022, 01:07 AM.

            Comment

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