03 SAN Limited ballast fill leak/ auto valve question?

[gdhall]

okay, so my 2003 SAN has tanks in the back with 400 fat sacs on top. To pump into these I have two valves that have a long lever that sticks up to just below the sundeck pad in front of the motor and I turn it to "open" to pump and then "close" to ride once they are full. This isn't a huge deal but it is a pain to open and close. Unfortunately the "close" does not keep the water from pumping in when we are riding and I constantly end up pumping water out to keep my fat sac from busting out the top of the compartment as it has done before and it seems dangerously close to breaking my electric hatch releases (it is a limited and so these are electric instead of manual) I can't find any easy fixes that mention an 03 and I don't know what years have the same ballast set ups. I don't have any problems with my front ballast as it overflows into a bag the front seats (v shaped) and then that just over flows out the side but there's not enough pressure while driving to overfill this one.

in summary:
is there a quick fix for the leaking valves when driving?
Is there a way to make these valves automatic to be able to control them from the drivers seat?

Thanks to all you ballast gurus. This is my first boat and I'm still new at all this.

[rcazwillis]

Sounds like the ball valve is leaking. Those valves should not let any water through, in or out.

[kneebrdr]

I installed 12V DC solenoid valves on both my fill and drain lines, ties the valve into same power as the pump and when I start the pumps, the valves open. One of the best things I did. Here is a link to similar valve. I went with a cheaper valve, want to say $40/valve, than the ASCO, if interested I can look to see the brand I used. I've had them for 3 years now.

http://www.supplyhouse.com/Asco-RedH...id-Valve-12VDC

[gdhall]

I installed 12V DC solenoid valves on both my fill and drain lines, ties the valve into same power as the pump and when I start the pumps, the valves open. One of the best things I did. Here is a link to similar valve. I went with a cheaper valve, want to say $40/valve, than the ASCO, if interested I can look to see the brand I used. I've had them for 3 years now.

http://www.supplyhouse.com/Asco-RedH...id-Valve-12VDC

Yea man. I'd love to know what brand. For $40 a pop I'd love to do this. Did u run a totally different wire from helm to the valve or literally tie in to the power at the pump with a wire nut?

[kneebrdr]

I'll get info on valves today, but I just used wire tap connectors and tied into wires on the pumps. I was tired of standing on my head to open and close valves, and then I had couple of the plastic knobs to break, so I went to the auto valves.

[obd666]

can get these from link below for just under $40 a piece. is what i used and they have been working great for several years. i only used them on the fill side, not really necessary on the drain side.

http://stores.ebay.com/valves4projects

[gdhall]

okay okay I'm sold I'll definitely buy some valves but, how the heck do you get these valves out? any advice on how you guys did this? I'd love to know exactly which valve to buy so I don't hafta guess whether or not they will work. I see no reason to worry about the empty side?

[beach]

Here is a write up on replacing those valves.

http://www.planetnautique.com/vb3/sh...rt-Deux!/page4

[obd666]

in the thread above, he went to more trouble than you have to by threading the solenoids directly into the thru-hull valves with new fittings, etc. Is easiest to just splice into the existing hose between that valve and the fill pump wherever you have the most space, in my mind anyway ... yes, you just need three valves for the fill lines

[gdhall]

in the thread above, he went to more trouble than you have to by threading the solenoids directly into the thru-hull valves with new fittings, etc. Is easiest to just splice into the existing hose between that valve and the fill pump wherever you have the most space, in my mind anyway ... yes, you just need three valves for the fill lines

Is there a reason not to use 3/4" valves especially if you I am taping into the hose instead of directly to the thru hull valves? Isn't that the size of that hose running to the pumps?

[obd666]

Yep, 3/4" is what I used for that very reason. They work great

[gdhall]

Yep, 3/4" is what I used for that very reason. They work great

so basically I need a 3/4" male to 3/4" barb nipple for each side of each valve, or 4 total?
Plus the 2 3/4" DC electric valves that are "normally closed"

[obd666]

You got it. I did a valve on the belly too, so 3 total with 6 fittings ...

[gdhall]

Okay, I think
2 of these, http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-4-Electric...item45fba00808,

4 of these (just the one lot)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brass-Fittin...item233d33b47d

i'll put some plumber tape on each side as well as hose clamps on the barbs.

[kneebrdr]

This is my exact valve, has been working great.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-4-Electric...item45fba00808