My thoughts exactly ddipert I am leaning towards repairing it myself after removing the so-called patch job . I can just about pull it all off .. I'm thinking of building it up a good bit since I have room on the port for the top plate to raise up .. Any suggestions on the bottom?
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I'd build it out and make it about twice the area of the original. Height wise you can build It up but without getting a bigger foot print your not going to increase strength. The bottom could get a little tricky two ways I see you wanting to todo this (I'm not a fiberglass repair man, there might be better ways)
you could fill the recess while glassing then grind the recess you need. Or make a plug (wood, metal, plastic anything you can simulate the same size/shape with) then glass the plug in. Remove the plug and touch up with a grinder.
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If it is cracked, and as you suspect, has been previously repaired, it sounds like " the easy way to repair" has already been tried. Likely it has soaked up some water and delaminated. It will be a significant repair, yet, not outside the capabilities of an experienced Fiberglass guy. Not a do at home fix. I would speculate that the damage it's localized, meaning that it does not extend out more than say...a foot. The damage will have to be entirely removed and a filler piece glassed in.
Then some re-enforce ing fiberglass layed over and extending out from the joint where the filler butts up to original hull.
These will need to extend out in successive layers, in order to re establish original strength for the stresses the rudder housing distributes to the hull. All the fiberglass wet layup should be vacuum bagged and heat cured for optimum results. Sounds like your at a point where that's what you are after.
Sound difficult? Not really,,,, I've done a load of fiberglass on commercial jets and it's an established protocol.
A competent boat guy will be tuned in to the requirements.
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Repair of Composite.pdfLike Pinball says, you need a multi-layered repair with vacuum bagging. I attached a pdf from one of the helicopter manuals we maintain. The last page shows of picture.
Also important in this type of layup is to alter the fiber orientation (called warp clock) for each successive layer. If not done, the repair will have a warp in it and be weaker or compromised.sigpic
2010 SAN 210TE
2004 Mastercraft X2 (Sold)
2005 Sea Ray 210 Select (Sold)
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