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So, I have asked you guys a few times about the oil pressure alarm I was getting in my 2006 SANTE. It would happen at idle, and when coming off throttle.
I had the oil sender replaced - along with the switch by an "inboard specialist". And then they supposedly replaced it again to fix the pressure alarm which altered the issue, but did not fix it. It was very irritating.
So, I finally ordered the sender part myself from NautiqueParts.com and did the swap myself. The old and new parts looked the same, only the color was different....but my part worked
- it makes me SO happy to say that. The alarm is gone and the issue is resolved.
However, in researching this, I noticed that a lot of people have the pressure alarm issue. I wanted to provide what info I learned so that someone else might benefit. My engine is 375HP ZR-6, but I don't think that matters much for most of this.
1. Getting to the sender was not too bad. Pulled the black fiberglass dividers up (both of them) on the starboard side. Removed hard ballast tank. Laid down in that spot and felt around with a flashlight until I located the bell-shaped sender.
2. The sender is on one half of a hollow T-bar coming off the engine. On the other half of this T-bar is the oil switch. This is important...the sender runs the gauges and the switch controls the check engine light (CEL). If you replace one, do the other - it's too cheap not to. The thing to know here is that the oil pressure is monitored twice (from the same location). If the sender fails, the gauge and alarms go nuts. But if the CEL does not come on and the boat does not drop to limp mode, you either have a) a faulty oil switch that is not telling the computer that there is low or no pressure, or b) most likely, a failed sender that simply needs to be replaced.
The wire that controls the sender is blue - I only mention it because I just happened to see it and sometimes those things are important when tracking down an issue. Another thing to note is that if you ground that blue wire to the engine block, the gauges should all peg out to full pressure - just something else to note if you're testing connectivity.
Thanks for all your suggestions and tips as I worked through this. I just never thought that I the sender coudl still be the issue after replacing it twice already. If you want something done right...
I had the oil sender replaced - along with the switch by an "inboard specialist". And then they supposedly replaced it again to fix the pressure alarm which altered the issue, but did not fix it. It was very irritating.
So, I finally ordered the sender part myself from NautiqueParts.com and did the swap myself. The old and new parts looked the same, only the color was different....but my part worked
- it makes me SO happy to say that. The alarm is gone and the issue is resolved. However, in researching this, I noticed that a lot of people have the pressure alarm issue. I wanted to provide what info I learned so that someone else might benefit. My engine is 375HP ZR-6, but I don't think that matters much for most of this.
1. Getting to the sender was not too bad. Pulled the black fiberglass dividers up (both of them) on the starboard side. Removed hard ballast tank. Laid down in that spot and felt around with a flashlight until I located the bell-shaped sender.
2. The sender is on one half of a hollow T-bar coming off the engine. On the other half of this T-bar is the oil switch. This is important...the sender runs the gauges and the switch controls the check engine light (CEL). If you replace one, do the other - it's too cheap not to. The thing to know here is that the oil pressure is monitored twice (from the same location). If the sender fails, the gauge and alarms go nuts. But if the CEL does not come on and the boat does not drop to limp mode, you either have a) a faulty oil switch that is not telling the computer that there is low or no pressure, or b) most likely, a failed sender that simply needs to be replaced.
The wire that controls the sender is blue - I only mention it because I just happened to see it and sometimes those things are important when tracking down an issue. Another thing to note is that if you ground that blue wire to the engine block, the gauges should all peg out to full pressure - just something else to note if you're testing connectivity.
Thanks for all your suggestions and tips as I worked through this. I just never thought that I the sender coudl still be the issue after replacing it twice already. If you want something done right...
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