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Hey guys, I've owned my 2012 200v for a year. Last year I had the dealership do a full winterization, this year I have heated storage and I'd like to just change the oil myself. I have 3 main questions. I seems pretty self-explanatory, but I'm trying to figure out where to route the drain hose. Do I snake it all the way to the T handle drain? I haven't pulled the floor up yet, but assuming I need to do that. A friend has a fluid extractor so I'm considering using that and just launching the boat and doing it on the water. Any tips are appreciated! My second question is the oil. The PCM manual specifies SAE 15W-40 "GF-4/SM." I stopped by the dealership and they gave me 25W-40 inboard/outboard marine engine oil. I specifically asked twice to confirm it was the oil they put in Nautiques. Should I return it and order different oil? Last question, since I'm not really winterizing, should I leave the water in the block or go ahead and drain it? I'm not too DIY savvy, but would like to learn, thanks!
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I have a 2011 200v. To change the oil I unscrew the depth finder and pull the hose through there. The hose will not reach to the drain plug on mine, so im guessing yours is the same. It really helps the oil drain if the engine is hot. -
I forget what oil I'm using. I'll check tomorrow and let you know.Comment
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I pull the water intake hose from the strainer and connect a garden hose to provide a water source in the garage; I use a hookup similar to this link from brennank (http://www.planetnautique.com/vb3/sh...ht=winterize); run the engine until it reaches operating temp (ensure that you have water flowing out the exhaust during this operation); then I switch the water off and turn the valve so that it pulls from the bucket of antifreeze until I see plenty of antifreeze flowing from the exhaust (usually about 5 gal). Turn engine off and change oil using the a fluid extractor connecting the extractor to the oil drain hose. Oil drains very quickly. I have used Shell Rotella 15W-40 for the past 10 years with my 343 engines. Many members on this forum will tell you to drain the block but I just leave it full of antifreeze as many dealers do. Although I live in Ohio also, my boat is stored at the lake on KY/TN border. You are welcome to PM me with other questions or you can contact me via my cell 937-239-1219.
'13 200V Sport Nautique
'05 SV211 Nautique
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A few thoughts in case your still in the middle of this:
1. The oil extractor is the way to go IMHO to drain it out.
2. Definitely return the 25/40 weight oil and buy 15w-40. The 25/40 (assuming it's certified as SAE SN) will be okay as long as you never run in cold temps. I believe 25/40is created by mixing straight 30 and 40 weight oils. Remember - you have a truck engine in your boat, not an I/O. Did a Nautique dealer sell u the 25/40? I would find that surprising if that's the case.
3. One note on the the winterizing the block, if you want to suck marine AF through the system, you need to pause and first drain the raw water out of the block and manifolds and then fill with AF to ensure you don't dilute the AF and render it useless for protecting your block against freezing.
Hope this helps.2018 Ski Nautique 200 TE, H6
- 2006 Ski Nautique 196 LE, Excalibur 330
- 2001 Super Sport Nautique, GT40Comment
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I prefer to use something like attached. I just got a couple fittings so I hook up this to end of drain hose, pump out into a gallon container. Get's it all from the bottom of drain pan, and takes only a few minutes. That way I don't have to deal with getting the hose thru a hole in bottom of boat.
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That's how I do mine. I use a Tempo with a fitting attached to the drain hose.Originally posted by scottb7 View PostComment
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Hey thanks guys, I ended up using a fluid extractor back in mid December. jmo- yes it was the local Nautique dealer that sold me the oil. I confirmed with them twice that I was buying the oil for my specific boat. They are a large boat dealer and only started selling Nautiques a few years ago. So I ended up putting the 25w-40 in, but have not run it since oil was changed. My brother lives near a different dealer and they have the 15w-40 Shell Rotella. Do you think I should change the oil again? I'm wondering if I should contact Nautique about it. Last year I had the dealership do it so I was probably running 25w-40 all last year :-(Comment
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I ran that oil in a 305 chevy for many years...and the current owner of the boat is doing the same. Mercruiser advertises it as an oil that is designed to "sit in the pan" or something like that for long periods between use. In my opinion, there is nothing wrong with the oil except that it is slightly more viscous than the oil specified for your engine. That might mean slightly higher oil pressures especially at warm up temps and high rpm.Originally posted by goxc View Post
i don't believe any of the ingredients will attack your elastomers or some other one off problem.
Personally, I think you could run it the 50 hours if oil pressure is not a problem. When you change it, be sure to have the oil as hot as you can so you can get as much of it out as possible to minimize what stays behind and mixes with the correct oil. Change it again after a few trips if it makes you feel better.
My thought is that it is more important to get it all out of there and not mix with the new...than to change it early.
As long as your oil pressures aren't too high.
Sorry for the rambling.
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I agree with Airtool - only issue is slightly more wear at startup. If you are Spring skiing in 50 degree air and cold water, I would swap it out now. I bet the large dealer you got the 25/40 just didn't want to start stocking a different viscosity oil - not a good sign, I wouldn't go back there for service...2018 Ski Nautique 200 TE, H6
- 2006 Ski Nautique 196 LE, Excalibur 330
- 2001 Super Sport Nautique, GT40Comment
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My goodness. Synthetics guarantee significantly reduced wear....almost magical in comparison the conventional oil. I've run synthetic Mobil 1 since it was introduced back in the late 70's. I'm a licensed Airframe and Powerplant mechanic and I've seen the tear down results of field testing on real aircraft engines run through some real extreme duty cycles simulating a training environment with lots of touch and go landings....climb out heat up, gliding landing, repeat.... Synthetic needs no better salesperson than seeing virtually zero wear at 2000 hours versus a completely worn engine run on conventional.
If you don't run synthetic, you're not doing what you can to extend the life of your boat in my informed opinion.
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Break in on conventional oils is supposedly unnecessary, other than to change the break-in oil early perhaps at 10 hours or maybe a little more....with filter of course. My preference is to break in on conventional oil first 25 hours, then Mobil 1 . I use 15W50 for my GT40 351 since it has flat tappets which like added sulphur, and other versions of Mobil 1 don't have enough. If I had a modern roller tappets, I'd still use 15W50 since I don't boat in cold weather.
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