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FYI, the order of my PICS are completely reversed :grin: Read below for it to make sense!
Just in case any of you guys want to take Bowvan's idea OVER THE TOP, here is what I did. The system works great, and is really cool, but the convenience may not be worth the effort/expense for most. I built on Newwakesurfer's idea with the valves. Instead of the completely sensible valves used by Newwakesurfer :grin: , I took a friend of mine's casual suggestion to use in ground SPRINKLER VALVES with 1 fittings to match the 1 drain hose in the boat! The idea was to eliminate ANY need to remember to cork/un-cork, or manually twist valves when filling/emptying by electronically activating the sprinkler valves with the stock ballast controls in the console.
Here is what you will need for the Installation: (Assuming you understand the valve concept illustrated by Newwakesurfer above.)
a.) TWO 1 Electronic 24v SPRINKLER Valves & 1 nipple inserts - $40
b.) Silicon Plumbers Tape - $.30
c.) 50 Insulated 12 18 gauge Wire - $12
d.) 12v 24v Converter capable of at least 1amp output @ 24v - $60
e.) 4 Relays - $4
f.) Zip ties - $5
g.) Electrical Tape - $2
Total Approx. - $125
Here is how it we did the install: There may be easier ways to do these steps, but we wanted to make SURE it would work and figured our way was safest and least intrusive with our knowledge of the boats mechanics. We took our time, and went slow and the entire project took 4hrs. The hardest part was figuring out the relay wiring, and finding the wires for the pumps that empty.
1.) You will need to find the power wires for each of the rear Pumps that EMPTY. You may need to use a test light to find these, and those wires will be your TRIGGER for activating the sprinkler valves when emptying.
2.) Run wires from each of the emptying pump wire you found to the drivers console.
3.) Run power from one of your batteries (Positive & Negative) to the drivers console, make SURE you FUSE this line with a small 12v fuse of some kind directly off the battery (3-5amp would be fine)
4.) Now you have to wire your relays and 12v-24v converter to the pumps. Honestly, this is where I am a bit lost. My friend who is a car audio/alarm installer wired these for me. I know you need four relays because you need to isolate the pumps/sprinkler from each other since they will be independently activated with the PORT & STARBOARD ballast switches but still share the same 12v-24v converter. If any of you want to actually do this and need help with the wiring, I will have him draw it up for me.
5.) At this point you should be good! Tidy up your wires and tuck your relay/12v-24v Converter up under the throttle console.
6.) Weight the FRONT of your boat. I actually had another buddy who works with metal help me design a custom fit section of Lead for the bow. It is shaped to fit late model SAN 210s and offers a GREAT way to add up to 320lbs to the front of your boat without losing almost any space, while even maintaining the functionality of the drain in the floor! When it is completely mounted in the boat and I have good pics etc. I will start a new post on it, but be sure to check it out. I am going to have a mold made of the original and try to sell them for a few bucks more then cost to try and recoup MY expense in the project. The FIRST PIC in this thread is of the Mold. The mold creates 6 pieces so they are easy to place/remove. Notice the channel in the middle for the drain. We have all the lead pieces made, and we even put a coat of Vinal Ester with black dye over them so they are impermeable and safe to handle. The dye is so that if the vinal ester gets chipped off, you can see it. Just a little preview. Both of my friends that helped me with this did a **** of a job! If you would be interested in the mold let me know.
Just in case any of you guys want to take Bowvan's idea OVER THE TOP, here is what I did. The system works great, and is really cool, but the convenience may not be worth the effort/expense for most. I built on Newwakesurfer's idea with the valves. Instead of the completely sensible valves used by Newwakesurfer :grin: , I took a friend of mine's casual suggestion to use in ground SPRINKLER VALVES with 1 fittings to match the 1 drain hose in the boat! The idea was to eliminate ANY need to remember to cork/un-cork, or manually twist valves when filling/emptying by electronically activating the sprinkler valves with the stock ballast controls in the console.
Here is what you will need for the Installation: (Assuming you understand the valve concept illustrated by Newwakesurfer above.)
a.) TWO 1 Electronic 24v SPRINKLER Valves & 1 nipple inserts - $40
b.) Silicon Plumbers Tape - $.30
c.) 50 Insulated 12 18 gauge Wire - $12
d.) 12v 24v Converter capable of at least 1amp output @ 24v - $60
e.) 4 Relays - $4
f.) Zip ties - $5
g.) Electrical Tape - $2
Total Approx. - $125
Here is how it we did the install: There may be easier ways to do these steps, but we wanted to make SURE it would work and figured our way was safest and least intrusive with our knowledge of the boats mechanics. We took our time, and went slow and the entire project took 4hrs. The hardest part was figuring out the relay wiring, and finding the wires for the pumps that empty.
1.) You will need to find the power wires for each of the rear Pumps that EMPTY. You may need to use a test light to find these, and those wires will be your TRIGGER for activating the sprinkler valves when emptying.
2.) Run wires from each of the emptying pump wire you found to the drivers console.
3.) Run power from one of your batteries (Positive & Negative) to the drivers console, make SURE you FUSE this line with a small 12v fuse of some kind directly off the battery (3-5amp would be fine)
4.) Now you have to wire your relays and 12v-24v converter to the pumps. Honestly, this is where I am a bit lost. My friend who is a car audio/alarm installer wired these for me. I know you need four relays because you need to isolate the pumps/sprinkler from each other since they will be independently activated with the PORT & STARBOARD ballast switches but still share the same 12v-24v converter. If any of you want to actually do this and need help with the wiring, I will have him draw it up for me.
5.) At this point you should be good! Tidy up your wires and tuck your relay/12v-24v Converter up under the throttle console.
6.) Weight the FRONT of your boat. I actually had another buddy who works with metal help me design a custom fit section of Lead for the bow. It is shaped to fit late model SAN 210s and offers a GREAT way to add up to 320lbs to the front of your boat without losing almost any space, while even maintaining the functionality of the drain in the floor! When it is completely mounted in the boat and I have good pics etc. I will start a new post on it, but be sure to check it out. I am going to have a mold made of the original and try to sell them for a few bucks more then cost to try and recoup MY expense in the project. The FIRST PIC in this thread is of the Mold. The mold creates 6 pieces so they are easy to place/remove. Notice the channel in the middle for the drain. We have all the lead pieces made, and we even put a coat of Vinal Ester with black dye over them so they are impermeable and safe to handle. The dye is so that if the vinal ester gets chipped off, you can see it. Just a little preview. Both of my friends that helped me with this did a **** of a job! If you would be interested in the mold let me know.
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