Doe's anyone out there have any history with the old style thermostat not letting the engine heat up in low 40's water temp.
I have a 2002 w/ a throttle body injected 5.0 GM engine in my boat and it will not get over 110 deg. It was suggested to me by CC that I go to a 170 deg. thermostat.
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I now have a 145 in it.
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Last weekend the water temp was 42 and air was 38. The temp gauge did not even come off of the low side peg until I was in the water running for 3 hours. and then it came up to 105.
My question is:
This style of thermostat is a flow through style and allows water to come through the thermostat (when closed) then back to the circulation pump and back into the block. When the engine finally build's 145 deg. temps it will then open up and allow flow to the exhaust manifolds.
I see that there is a kit to change over to a automotive style thermostat and housing:
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Has anyone ever used this kit to solve my problems?
Does the brass ring go next to the intake manifold or the thermostat? If the brass ring goes on first then the thermostat, and then the housing. This setup will also generate high volume of unregulated flow to the circulation pump.
I would think that if you were using a automotive style thermostat that did not allow flow until engine was at operating temperatures it would be a better deal. I am just thinking that there is too much flow to build engine temperatures.
I have a 2002 w/ a throttle body injected 5.0 GM engine in my boat and it will not get over 110 deg. It was suggested to me by CC that I go to a 170 deg. thermostat.

I now have a 145 in it.

Last weekend the water temp was 42 and air was 38. The temp gauge did not even come off of the low side peg until I was in the water running for 3 hours. and then it came up to 105.
My question is:
This style of thermostat is a flow through style and allows water to come through the thermostat (when closed) then back to the circulation pump and back into the block. When the engine finally build's 145 deg. temps it will then open up and allow flow to the exhaust manifolds.
I see that there is a kit to change over to a automotive style thermostat and housing:

Has anyone ever used this kit to solve my problems?
Does the brass ring go next to the intake manifold or the thermostat? If the brass ring goes on first then the thermostat, and then the housing. This setup will also generate high volume of unregulated flow to the circulation pump.
I would think that if you were using a automotive style thermostat that did not allow flow until engine was at operating temperatures it would be a better deal. I am just thinking that there is too much flow to build engine temperatures.
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