Hints for Pulling my Engine

[g-time]

A hole rusted in the oil pan of my '82 and I had it patched temporarily with some JB Weld to get me through the season. I've ordered a new oil pan and I'm getting ready to pull my engine to replace it. But, before I did it, I thought I would see if anyone out there has any suggestions or lessons learned with regard to pulling my engine out. I've received a few comments from others, including Vince at Skidim, but I thought this group would also have some wise words for me. Thanks.

[tryan]

vince knows more than all of us put together. mark your mounts and realign your motor when you get done. my rule is, fix one leak and make three.

[crotchrocket]

I pulled my 85 nautique a couple of years ago. It was super easy. Just make sure you get all your wires, cables and bolts out. I used an regular heavy duty engine hoist. Just be careful!! It will want to tip over very easy since you will have to raise the engine high to clear the boat. Ofcourse you could use a fixed hoist of some sort. But I did it in my driveway. I would recomend no less than 3 guys helping. That is one to move the hoist. The other two to help stabilize the motor so it doesnt tip everything over. I did have to let the air out of my tires on the trailer to get the engine to clear the boat. Hoist only went so high. Also I had a very heavy duty hoist. I wouldnt recomend a light duty one. Too unstable while engine is high. Get an engine stand to hold your engine, once its out. Also while the engine is out. Go ahead and clean up the engine compartment. I used some brillo pads to clean stains off the aluminum mounting rails" not sure what you call these, the ones that the mounts mount to". This is a good time to look at all your wiring too. Also while you have the engine out. I went ahead and sand blasted and repainted every bracket and mount. I made sure the mounts were clean and I ran some grease through them so that they would be easy to adjust later. I dont know if your just replacing your oil pan or rebuilding? This would be a good time to replace a water pump, fuel seperator and little things that are a pain when the engine is in. I would say It probably took me about 20 minutes to get the engine ready to pull. Probably about 10 minutes to pull it. You only need the help when you are ready to hoist. I hope this helps. Feel free to ask questions.

[882001]

im about to pull mine too. no words of advice, but if you need a hand let me know. i would like to check out the pull

[tryan]

you should be able to rent a decent size hoist, but a wrecker might be cheaper and safer.

there are cheap engine stands, but get a decent 4 legger. 3 are unstable.

don't forget to disconnect the negative battery cable first.

the tranny cable is a pain, but try not to bend it.

if your pan is rusted ( crotch is right ),you motor mounts might be crusty also. leave them on while pulling. just take the bolts out of the stringers. vince sells individual parts for the mounts.

take off the exhaust manifold and risers. it will shed some weight.

the lifting center will be closer to the tranny end.

take pictures for cable routing,ect

from hindsight, i wish i would have sealed up the tranny and put in a new clutch pack and flex plate while mine was out.

i have looked for an aluminum deep sump pan for a while. the only ones i have found are for dry sump set ups. i'm going to try search from the tractor/industrial perspective. ****, i might get lucky.

when you put your new pan on, use locktight, lock washers and a torque wrench. let it sit an retorque after an hour. don't over tighten the bolts.

stainless bolt kits are 30 bucks or so for the entire motor on ebay, but arp's would be nice.

check #7 and #8 connecting rods for wear while its out.

the oil drain kits are the stuff. i could only put mine on with the engine out. (my pan is a dimes thickness off the hull.) make one or get one.

[Laptom]

Tryan is right.. Make pictures before the engine is out!
Disconnect the negative batery cable first!!!!!

And install a oil drain kit. We had one on our 2001, but not anymore on our SuperSport. I do miss it.

For the rest is pretty straight forward. We did it last winter and got it out within 1 hour (3 people).

[SGY]

Uh oh. Why negative battery cable first? I know what happens if you accidently touch both poles at the same time with your wrench--sparks and potential damage to ignition, etc. Is there another reason to disconnect the negative teerminal first? Now you guys got me worried because I just disconnected my positive side battery cable to winterize my boat. Hope I didn't hurt anything. :oops:

[tryan]

it's really a car thing, but taking the negative off first is a good habit to get into. have you ever had a wrench hit the fender or motor taking off a positive lead and the negative is still hooked up? it's quite sparky.

sgy, you didn't hurt anything. 'negative first' does not matter that much on someting made out of fiberglass. it's just a safety thing.

the local wrecker driver might be cheaper than renting a lift. it would not hurt to call one or two and see what they would charge for 30 minutes.

[SGY]

Whew! Thanks for your help. I got a little worried because my 206 Limited owners manual warns strongly against attaching the negative to the positive because doing such would fry the electronics--including touchpad. So, to avoid making any mistakes, I just disconnected the positive. (Yeah, I know I'm a nervous nellie--but I usually learn things the hard way.)

[pj]

I know this thread is a little old. But, here's a total rookie question. Do i want to leave the tranny hooked up to the motor when i pull it? Or should i detach it first? Thanks for the advice.

[Andrew]

i'd leave it on. it is a lot easier to detach the driveshaft than the tranny, but if weight is an issue, then that will definetly be a factor.

[darrel409]

Agree, leave it on, take it off outside of the boat where you will have more room.

[Rick]

Leave it on the 2 rear mounts are on the tranny so if you break the engine and tranny you have to move the engine forward 4-6 inches. I'm not sure you have that kind of room before hitting the pylon

[DanielC]

I have removed and replaced the engine in two direct drive boats, and I had access to the two hoists that were used to lift boats off trailers. Here are the steps I followed removing the engine the first time, and I just followed them the second time.
When putting the engine back in, I followed the list in reverse order.
It looks crude here, but it is a single page page excel spreadsheet in my computer


remove exhaust pipes

disconnect raw water intake

disconnect negative battery cable at battery

disconnect transmission cable, mark with tape, note routing

disconnect positive cable from starter or relay

disconnect negative cable from ground stud on engine

disconnect multipin electrical plug

disconnect serial interface plug

disconnect perfect pass servo motor cable

disconnect heater hoses

disconnect throttle cable, note routing

disconnect shower hot and cold hoses

disconnect fuel line from primary pump and plug. (red marker)

disconnect fuel return line, and plug. Clean up any spilled gas

disconnect motor to chassis ground cable

disconnect prop shaft

move blower motor, and shower pump if in the way

remove bolts from rear (transmission) mount

remove locking nut from top of front mount

lift motor