Kodiak Disc Brakes

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  • jmo
    Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
    • Mar 2006
    • 707

    • MA


    #16
    Originally posted by RCHANDED
    Thanks JMO, what do you think of this kit? it looks like everything I need right?

    http://shop.easternmarine.com/index....categoryID=155
    Yep - that should do it. Thats sweet that the hubs comes prepacked with the bearing already installed. Some minor things you might need to get in addition are:

    1 Brake fluid (obviously)
    2 Caliper grease for the bolts the brake calipers need to slide on - available at any auto parts store (you can't use the same marine grease for the bubs)
    3 New cotter pins or tab washers that work with the nut to hold the hub on the axle. (doesn't list it in the kit)
    4 Replacement wiring harness.

    One aspect I like better about the kodiak disk brakes are that they come with ceramic pads (no brake dust to get all over the wheels) - you could probably get ceramic pads next time when you need to replace them in years to come.
    2018 Ski Nautique 200 TE, H6
    - 2006 Ski Nautique 196 LE, Excalibur 330
    - 2001 Super Sport Nautique, GT40

    Comment

    • jmo
      Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
      • Mar 2006
      • 707

      • MA


      #17
      auskier - part of the price difference is I bought the Silver Cad finish (next level up) brake calipers and rotors and the tie down 70e actuator was more as well (given it has the reverse solenoid already installed - which is like 40 50 by it self). The Silver cad finish is probably over kill, but I trailer all the time and hence dunk the trailer twice a week so I wanted the next level of corrosion resistance...
      2018 Ski Nautique 200 TE, H6
      - 2006 Ski Nautique 196 LE, Excalibur 330
      - 2001 Super Sport Nautique, GT40

      Comment

      • auskier
        • Apr 2005
        • 70

        • Ft Worth, TX


        #18
        I noted that the rotors were a step up from mine. I bought mine on the suggestion of the kodiak guys when I told them I drop them in the water 2-3 times per week 7 months a year. They said I would have no problems. We'll see if that's true. I don't do any saltwater stuff and they said that the silver cad and the stainless ones are for salt water use.

        Thats a pretty good idea. (flipping the pig tail wire)

        I wired in a switch because there are times when the actuator is activated because of facing downhill, and I wanted to be able to activate the solinoid before going into reverse. I used a lighted switch because I have to make sure not to forget and leave the switch on or I have no brakes.
        97 Ski Nautique 196

        Comment

        • auskier
          • Apr 2005
          • 70

          • Ft Worth, TX


          #19
          The reverse solinoid was about $50 when I purchased it by itself this spring but that was included in my $350 total that I gave.

          Thats a great note on the extra stuff needed.
          I did have to add a couple of washers to have the hub mount correctly. (The nut would not tighten down enough without the extra washers)
          97 Ski Nautique 196

          Comment

          • jmo
            Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
            • Mar 2006
            • 707

            • MA


            #20
            auskier - got it. Interesting about the need for extra washers, I didn't run into that issue. I like the idea of the toggle switch by the way, is that switch inside the vehicle on the dashboard somewhere?
            2018 Ski Nautique 200 TE, H6
            - 2006 Ski Nautique 196 LE, Excalibur 330
            - 2001 Super Sport Nautique, GT40

            Comment

            • jmo
              Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
              • Mar 2006
              • 707

              • MA


              #21
              RCHANDED - one other comment, if you get the tiedown kit make sure you find out what type of grease they prepacked it with, you have to careful about mixing greases that have different bases as some combinations will react and lose it's ability to keep your bearings from seizing (aka: very bad )

              See the following link: http://www.mindconnection.com/librar...easecompat.htm
              2018 Ski Nautique 200 TE, H6
              - 2006 Ski Nautique 196 LE, Excalibur 330
              - 2001 Super Sport Nautique, GT40

              Comment

              • auskier
                • Apr 2005
                • 70

                • Ft Worth, TX


                #22
                I was frustrated about the need for an extra washer, it worried me, but has not been a problem other than it required and extra trip out with the boat sitting on jack stands.

                I like the switch a lot. It is mounted on the dash. I usually flip it pulling up to the ramp, or pulling onto my street. It's so much better than having to get out and put that silly pin in to back up.

                By the way JMO mentioned liking the Tie down actuator much better than the Titan and I have to agree. I had several years of experience with a Titan and I was reluctant to buy something different. I went with the tie down mostly because it was cheaper and because I could get it locally and not have to wait for it to be shipped. It has been much easier to use and looks to be taking abuse well for what its worth.
                97 Ski Nautique 196

                Comment

                • inboardsonly
                  • Aug 2005
                  • 110

                  • Vancouver


                  #23
                  Make sure that you use flexible brake lines from the axle to the caliper.

                  The calipers move on disc brakes, and drums don't move.

                  I installed mine about 3 years ago, and they have worked flawlessly. We are a Tiedown Distributor, and the
                  Kodiaks were much nicer, not to mention, I think they use an off the shelf Chevy Corsica brake pad, not some proprietary
                  pad.

                  IO

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