How to Install Fresh Water Flush???

[Ryan_E]

RyanE - Can you give me some more information on your system. Do you have the closed cooling system on your boat. Im looing to install on my boat as well but want a little more information first. Thanks.

No it's not a closed cooling system. I am afraid I can't give much information about it. I have yet to use it. The main reason I got the option was for, maintance, resale,not that it will make a big difference it's just another option, and when I am at the river. I really don't need it for the river but there are times the water gets nasty. My last boat I ran for 3 yrs at the river and never had any problem.

[Roddbod]

Thanks Ryan,
I talked to my dealer about this and he told me this kit runs $157.00 plus installation. He told me I could just use a 3 way ball valve and purchase the other parts from a hardware store for probally under $50.00.
Thank again.

[Roddbod]

RyanE
Can you tell me if there is a manfacturer or part number on the water hookup on the outside of the boat (the white fitting the hose hooks up to).
Cant seem to find it on the interent.

Rod

[Roddbod]

Finally finished my flush system and wanted to share it with everyone. I purchased all of my parts from go2marine.com. All in all it cost me about $75.00 to install.

[Roddbod]

Outside picture.

[steve578]

I will be installing a Flush-Pro next weekend. Does it matter if you install it before or after the strainer? I need to look again, but it might be more convenient after the strainer. I would assume that water out of the hose would be safe to enter after the strainer.

Stephen

[LT206]

I installed a freshwater flush today. Went to home depot and got a barbed 1" tee w/ a 3/4" threaded fitting and a fitting to attach a garden hose, and a cap for when not in use. The whole thing cost less than $12. I installed it between the raw water shutoff valve and the lakewater temperature sensor before the strainer. I simply close the raw water shutoff to direct the water into the motor when running the motor in the driveway. Pretty simple, but works well and much cheaper than flushpro. I didn't see the point in going to the expense of flushpro when all the fancy innerworkings do the exact same thing as shutting off the raw water intake valve. Changed my impellor today too...man what a pain!

Something to think about related to your question... the hose size after the strainer on my 206 is larger than the hose before the strainer - that may make a difference depending on the size of the flushpro barbs.

[LT206]

here are some pics of my install - I plan on getting a brass cap to replace the plastic cap for when not in use.

[Mikeski]

Finally had a chance to take pictures of my solution. I don't like having a valve that allows the hose to pressurize the motor. It can push past the impeller and fill the motor with water if you are really careless. My setup allows the water to dump out of the inlet until the impeller starts pulling the stream towards the motor. Just don't lose the plug or you are hosed (pun intended). I might add a safety cable on the brass plug so it never gets lost. Total cost about $20, plastic fittings came from Tanks & More (search e-bay for user ID: 6122Yale).

[92Excel]

I just got a flush pro delivered from www.skidim.com and they are 57 beans minus 10% plus shipping. installation just involves cutting out some rubber hose (5-1/2") on the port side of the engine compartment between the strainer and the impellar basically. Mine's on 02 SANTE. I had one on my last boat and it made flushing and winterizing a breeze.

[ag4ever]

Mike, the way I have always solved that is attaching the hose to the intake stream, and putting it in a bucket. I then put the water supply hose in the same bucket. This way the engine is always pulling the water, and if there is too much water pressure from the hose, it just overflows the bucket. The other benifit is that to winterize, you just fill the bucket, and let the engine suck the coolant into the engine.

I also put the bucket under the exhaust to "recycle" the warm water to shorten the warmup cycle. The supply hose only replenishes the water that is spit too far from the bucket to be recycled.

[boatech]

the one ryan e has in his pic has a high failure rate compared to the one scottrob shows. i would get the the perko one that scottrob has and you can get it with a through hole mount if you want. MIKSKI i would watch your setup close you have no way to shut off the intake side you will suck air and that could cause you problems.

[Mikeski]

Boatech has a good point, and it's valid with every one of these systems. Whenever you run a boat on a trailer/lift you need to keep a close watch on it.

Listen and watch, if the exhaust note gets loud or if you see steam coming from the exhaust you are about to overheat.

[TRBenj]

I highly doubt that sucking a little air will damage anything. The hose is still providing more than enough water to keep the impeller lubricated. Even if the RWP is not able to draw 100% of the water it is capable of moving, no harm will come from it. There is still plenty of water moving through the motor to keep it from overheating at idle, with no load. My $.02.

[boatech]

trust me sucking air will cause you problems ive seen it a 1000 times. ive seen water hose set ups that struggle to supply enough water for the boat period introduce a little ir in the mix you got problems.