Replace steering cable, 2008 SAN 230

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  • super01
    • Jun 2009
    • 277


    • 2008 Super Air 230 2001 Super Air 210 (Sold)

    Replace steering cable, 2008 SAN 230

    I'm about to undertake my first steering cable replacement, can someone point me to a discussion topic on this please?
    2008 Super Air 230 ZR6
    2001 Super Air 210 GT-40 (Sold)
  • Tryathlete
    • Feb 2015
    • 217

    • Lake Villa, IL

    • 1996 Nautique Super Sport

    #2
    Might be worth a look on CC Fan;
    http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum....asp?TID=20274


    If it ain't broke, sell it.

    Comment

    • ski4evr
      Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
      • May 2010
      • 613

      • Bowling Green, KY

      • 2005 SV 211

      #3
      Not really that hard of a project. Getting all the cable ties that are securing the cable might be the toughest. I used the old cable to pull the new one through. Be sure to cover greasy end with plastic bag to keep of seats. Also, take some pics and measurements of rudder end to get cable, rudder, and steering wheel in proper alignment. Make sure wheel, new cable, and rudder are all in "middle" of travel before bolting up. GL
      2005 SV-211

      Comment

      • Miljack
        1,000 Post Club Member
        • Dec 2004
        • 1615

        • Charlotte, NC

        • '08 230 TE ZR6

        #4
        That CCfan link is a good one if you have never done one, plus on the 230 you'll need to remove the "knee panel" under the dash (the circuit breakers are mounted there) to access the steering rack.
        -If your 230 has a heater (mine does) I would recommend removing the coaming pad next to the driver's seat. If you don't have a heater, you could try to "fish" the cable, but I wouldn't recommend it.
        -Remove the main floor in the cockpit
        -Remove the "step" in the middle of the rear bench
        -If your cable hasn't been changed before, the factory tie-wraps it to various hoses and locations in the bilge. Cut those ties (hint they're pretty good sized ones, so prob best to source them from Nautique Parts if you don't have them. You can also find them at good parts and electrical supply house, but you'll most likely need to buy a pack)
        -Before removing the rack, center up the steering wheel and make sure the rudder is straight.
        -Remove the four bolts holding on the rack, pay attention as there are "spacers" (SS washers) between rack and mounting points.
        -Remove the nut from the steering arm through bolt which attaches to the rudder.
        -Remove the nut from the steering tube
        -Tie a rope to the rudder end of the old cable
        -gently pull the rack towards the port side of the boat to remove the old cable. take care when the rudder end of the cable gets near the helm area!
        -Once the old cable is out from under the helm, remove the rope and tie it to the rudder end of the new cable
        -have a helper pull the rope from the open bilge area while you feed the rudder end of the new cable around the helm area
        -once you have the rudder end of the cable into the main bilge area you're almost home free!
        -At this point you should hit the rudder grease port with a good marine grease gun and work the rudder back and forth a few times by hand to check that's it's not "crudded" up
        -reattach and double check everything, re-safety wire the steering bolt

        Tell us how you did!
        2008 230 TE-ZR6
        1999 Pro Air Python-sold and moved away :-(

        Comment

        • Chris Parker
          • Apr 2015
          • 7

          • Mesa Arizona

          • 2007 236 team

          #5
          Originally posted by Miljack View Post
          That CCfan link is a good one if you have never done one, plus on the 230 you'll need to remove the "knee panel" under the dash (the circuit breakers are mounted there) to access the steering rack.
          -If your 230 has a heater (mine does) I would recommend removing the coaming pad next to the driver's seat. If you don't have a heater, you could try to "fish" the cable, but I wouldn't recommend it.
          -Remove the main floor in the cockpit
          -Remove the "step" in the middle of the rear bench
          -If your cable hasn't been changed before, the factory tie-wraps it to various hoses and locations in the bilge. Cut those ties (hint they're pretty good sized ones, so prob best to source them from Nautique Parts if you don't have them. You can also find them at good parts and electrical supply house, but you'll most likely need to buy a pack)
          -Before removing the rack, center up the steering wheel and make sure the rudder is straight.
          -Remove the four bolts holding on the rack, pay attention as there are "spacers" (SS washers) between rack and mounting points.
          -Remove the nut from the steering arm through bolt which attaches to the rudder.
          -Remove the nut from the steering tube
          -Tie a rope to the rudder end of the old cable
          -gently pull the rack towards the port side of the boat to remove the old cable. take care when the rudder end of the cable gets near the helm area!
          -Once the old cable is out from under the helm, remove the rope and tie it to the rudder end of the new cable
          -have a helper pull the rope from the open bilge area while you feed the rudder end of the new cable around the helm area
          -once you have the rudder end of the cable into the main bilge area you're almost home free!
          -At this point you should hit the rudder grease port with a good marine grease gun and work the rudder back and forth a few times by hand to check that's it's not "crudded" up
          -reattach and double check everything, re-safety wire the steering bolt

          Tell us how you did!
          I am in the middle of doing this job on my 236 TE. I am having two hold ups. First one is I cant get the nut loose on the steering tube on rudder side of steering cable. I have the steering cable fished through the main floor area above fuel tank so its easier to work on, but its so awkward to hold steering tube with vise grips and try to bust nut loose with wrench. Also my boat also has a heater, so what is the coaming pad next to driver's seat?
          Thanks

          Comment

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