1995 Sport with Hard Steering

[ScrewPusher]

divetravis wrote:
Pete: My 1998 Ski Nautique started steering hard and sounds similar to yours, it would get easier to steer as I drove it. I replaced the steering cable and the problem was still there. I ended up dropping the rudder out the bottom and upon cleaning everything up found that the rudder shaft and rudder box had some scoring (not a lot). I cleaned both up with some fine sandpaper, relubed everything and put it back together, steers like new. I sure wish Correct Craft had put a grease zerk in the rudder box. This was not really a hard job to do, I had to slide the boat back a bit to get the rudder to clear the trailer (I put it in the lake to do this) then I simply paid attention to how everything came apart. Oh, by the way to get the rudder out I had to remove the gas tank.


Thanks Larry, I'll disconnect the cable from the rudder and see if the wheel is still hard to turn to determine if it's the cable or the rudder.

I had the exact same problem on my 95 SN (no grease fitting in rudder), replaced the cable twice over 2 years, then got wise to the rudder sticking in the stuffing tube. Pulled it out and noticed the wear marks and figured it was due to the prop wash. All was well on the trailer and at low speed, but when at skiing speed it was enough to make me POed. Nobody else noticed. Re-greased the rudder with teflon stuffing box grease (some sticky mess my father uses on his Bertram) and all was well.

[jedgell]

Agree with all of the above. I have a '95 Ski and last year pulled the rudder and cleaned the shaft and rudder box. Made a huge difference, I could steer with one finger. I'm glad I listened to my local dealer about the rudder being loose and dirty before ordering a cable. He said that the reason the steering gets tight at speed is that the rudder actually gets a little loose and causes it to bind when turning at speed. At low speeds and on the trailer it steers fine. If you can feel any up/down play in the rudder it needs to be tightened. Its a pain, in my boat at least because you have to pull the tank. But the results are well worth it.

[peteSki]

Had a chance this past weekend to disconnect the steering cable from the rudder, turns out the rudder turns quite smooth and easy, but the steering is still tight - so now I know 100% that I need a new steering cable.

I'd be interested to hear how others have done this job. Do you attach the new cable to the end of the old and then pull it through?

Pete

[tski97]

I replaced my cable last year on a 97sport. I tried to tie a rope to the old cable before I took it out and then connected that rope to the new one. This did not work so well because the new one got stuck on too many things trying to follow the same path. It was easier to just let it find it's own way. It actually went through really easy just pushing it through.

[Sbt3]

How long did it take you guys to change the cable? I am probably changing one in my 97 super sport this weekend and am curious about how long it should take. I was figuring about 1-2 hours.

[peteSki]

I changed mine last weekend in my 97 ski, took about 2 hours. Once I had the cable disconnected from the rudder and steering column, I tied a small rope to the rudder end and then pulled the cable through. This rope did make it pretty easy to feed the new one back in. Was about 50/50 trying to push and pull the new cable into place.

Good luck!

Pete

[Pat-Elmer]

I had the same problem on my 97 Super Sport, Replaced cable, same problrm. At least on Super Sports I would advise cleaning and regreasing before replacing cable, it probably needs it anyway. Loosen 2 bolts and the rudder drops right out. Either leave your boat back on the trailer or I just took the 2 rear bolts out of the propguard and dropped it that way.

[Sbt3]

Mine ended up being the cable. I disconnected it from the rudder and it was still hard to steer. The rudder moved freely so I didn't mess with it. I put a new cable in which wasn't too bad. It probably took me 1 1/2 hours from start to finish. I had to cut a lot of zip ties which I had put in when I did my ballast so that took me a little while to wrap all that back up otherwise it was very easy. I took the back seat out and took the middle section of floor out. With this all out it was accessible which made it nice.

[darrel409]

My 95 SN with hard steering had no zirc and the cable when disconnected moved smoothly. This weekend I dropped the rudder out and it was bone dry. I added a zirc and plumbed it thru the hull. It turns much eaiser now (on land), no chance for a water test for a week or two. I'll report back after i give it a test ride. I did have to move the gas tank but it only took 45 min. I have more pics of the step by step if anyone is interested.

[TRBenj]

Pics would be great. Glad to hear it wasnt too difficult to pull the gas tank- im considering doing the same on my '90.

[darrel409]

Locate where you want to drill stuffing box, be sure it will be clear when you replace the fuel tank. (I did mine 1/4 in. high and had to rebend the copper) Drill, tap and screw in fitting. Drill 1/2 in. hole in stern (use drill in reverse), lather fitting w/ 3M 5200, push thru, 5200 the inside, use SS washers on each side and snug down. Only use heavy wall copper tube. Not the soft, refridge stuff at Home Depot. I got my fittings and zircs from a guy who designed this upgrade back in the 90's. He never made much $$ and i think he has lots still in his garage. Then measure, cut and bend your copper tube, I used all compression fittings.

[TRBenj]

Thanks for the pics!

I'm not too crazy about drilling into my hull, so if I add a zerk fitting, Ill probably just plumb it towards the front. Would a zerk be available from Home Depot that would be good enough quality?

Any issues with removing the gas tank? I assume its relatively straight forward, but it doesnt hurt to ask!

[darrel409]

Easy to move the tank, 2 on the 1-10 scale. Just remember it is FUEL. My tank was near full so I just slid it forward til it was out of the way and worked over the top. Removing the fill hose was the hardest part...not much room or give from the hose. The grease fitting you can get anywhere, just use heavy wall copper tube. A hand held grease gun can deliver 10,000 psi. Use heavy wall copper. You are gonna be at a good auto part store for the copper...I paid $1.60 a foot, so its only a few bucks for the parts.
I was going to route it up to the engine bay but i couldnt find a spot i really liked. The stern was just sitting there looking at me all nice and flat, close and easy, a simple bend and it would be done. Thats when the drill metioned how lonely it was and that tube of 5200 in the garage.... Next thing I had a new grease fitting in the stern, super easy to lube w/o putting that greasy gun in the boat.