I Hate These Plastic Helm Ballast Valve Controls!!! Anyone find a replacement?

[SCNautique210SAN]

Hey guys,

I'm sure my headline is pretty self explanatory but I've been through about 4 of these things now: http://www.nautiqueparts.com/knobfor...stem2003-.aspx

They get so hard to turn that the plastic completely breaks off. Has anyone found a solid replacement or some way to fix the issue? I know that I probably need cables but even if I replace the cables, it's still incredibly hard to turn these things occasionally.

It's for an 04 SAN210TE

[Miljack]

Search on here, there was a huge thread that NautiqueJeff started. Short story is, best way to be rid of those is to rebuild your ballast system.
Alot has been written debating the pros and cons of "Aerator pumps" and "impeller" style pumps. I've gone through 3 different iterations of ballast systems in our boats;
stock w aerator, custom manifold style/electric cutoff/supply valve/multiple aerator system, and now the stock impeller style pumps. IMO, the impellers are the best because the
tradeoffs are minor compared to the consistency of the system.

A well designed aerator system can be faster, but you really need to pay attention to keeping the pumps primed.

I know, not what you wanted to hear, but, you asked...

[nyryan2001]

SC, is that one that keeps breaking just a manual Y valve?

[SCNautique210SAN]

It's a simple open/close valve with an open/close control. Control keeps breaking off because the cable gets stuck (which I replaced once already). I wish there were just a better control replacement that won't break! Lol

[NautiqueJeff]

Yep, anything you could ever want to know about that crappy system can be found here:

http://www.planetnautique.com/vb5/fo...allast-Valves=

[Skidave]

Ouch, some of us still have that system 😂

Thank goodness for the ball valves in the engine compartment.

I found silicon spray for the cables and a small amount of vacuum grease for any major moving parts makes the system much nicer to operate.

[obd666]

as pointed out above there are several ways to skin that cat. but the specific issue of opening and closing valves can be remedied by installing solenoid valves like these in line. they open when you power up your fill pump, problem solved.

there are several threads on here that discuss this in detail, btw.

[SCNautique210SAN]

I actually have that solenoid above in use in my boat already! It works great for what it's doing - closes the empty port for the rear ballast while filling because they would drain while I was filling (I have bags tied into the stock system). But I don't think I'd place those in the hull. Mine are already rusting on the top and if you got any water in the hill you'd probably be screwed! I think the red hats are the way to go still. Just really pricy

[obd666]

But I don't think I'd place those in the hull. Mine are already rusting on the top and if you got any water in the hill you'd probably be screwed! I think the red hats are the way to go still. Just really pricy

been using those valves for years with no trouble. are the red hats supposed to be better or something?? they look like the very same valve, lol

[SCNautique210SAN]

been using those valves for years with no trouble. are the red hats supposed to be better or something?? they look like the very same valve, lol

I think they're water proof? Jeff might be able to chime in. My concern with the ones you listed is that if I take on enough water for some reason to emerge those solenoids under water, if they will still work. Have you done this? If that's the case I just might repurpose mine!

[obd666]

My concern with the ones you listed is that if I take on enough water for some reason to emerge those solenoids under water, if they will still work. Have you done this?

i don't believe iv'e ever had enough water in my bilge to submerge the coil on top of the valve. the coil enclosure looks to be at the very least water resistant if not water proof. i guess if it happened and hosed them up permanently, i'm not out much at $30 each. but again, i have yet to have that happen.

[First226]

I have been using solenoid valves as well. They work great and I never have to deal with the plastic valves again.


2005 226 TE

[SCNautique210SAN]

Just bought 3 of them. Going to buy some 3 and 4 inch shrink wrap to make them relatively water tight just to be safe.

[peteSki]

I read through the original post that Jeff forwarded to me, and I've just installed 2 Asco valves... same ones that were recommended in the thread. The job was easy and the solenoids fit perfectly in the spot that the manual ball valves were in. When I bought my boat, the previous owner must have removed the control system as the cables had been cut and the corresponding valves were gone. I've now got one of these valves wired up to the fill pump and it is working.... on land anyways, can't water test for a few more months up here in Canada!

Here's a pic showing work in progress, the solenoids have been plumbed in and are ready for wiring. I too try to keep a dry bilge and with how the valves are mounted, there would have to be a considerable amount of water in there for them to go underwater.

Pete

[peteSki]

I read through the original post that Jeff forwarded to me, and I've just installed 2 Asco valves... same ones that were recommended in the thread. The job was easy and the solenoids fit perfectly in the spot that the manual ball valves were in. When I bought my boat, the previous owner must have removed the control system as the cables had been cut and the corresponding valves were gone. I've now got one of these valves wired up to the fill pump and it is working.... on land anyways, can't water test for a few more months up here in Canada!

Here's a pic showing work in progress, the solenoids have been plumbed in and are ready for wiring. I too try to keep a dry bilge and with how the valves are mounted, there would have to be a considerable amount of water in there for them to go underwater.

Pete

Had the boat out a few times now, the new solenoid valves are working great! They even keep the pumps primed between use with the boat out of the water as long as you don't run them. I did have an issue though with one of the drain pumps. I couldn't get the port side tank to drain when on the water. It would only drain with the boat sitting on the trailer on my driveway. After some deep thought on this.... I realized it was likely because on the driveway the boat is not flat but sloped towards the bow, so more water got to the pump. Taking a closer look to see why the pump wouldn't prime when on the water, I did 2 things. I remounted the pump as low as I could get it, which was about another inch down, and also changed the orientation of the pump such that the discharge outlet was on the top. Previously the discharge outlet was on the bottom and I think water would just flow by the pump and into the discharge line and the pump never really got filled unless the boat was sloped forward. Anyway, had the boat out yesterday after making this change and now my port tank drains perfectly!

As much as these aerator pumps have seemed like a pain in the butt thus far, now that everything is setup and the solenoids installed I think I'm on the right track to a decent working ballast system thanks to the suggestions on here. They do fill and empty pretty quickly which is a plus, although my tanks are not huge on my boat. Well worth the cost of the solenoids and a few hours of installation in my opinion.

Pete