boat lift

[96SNEFI]

So I'm contemplating getting a boat lift. Before pulling the trigger...what I'm currently hanging up on is ... how bad is it to load an SN on an open public lake not protected in any bay or cove or breakwater where the lake can get rough?
My intention would be to not use an anchor when I'm not there. I currently use whips when I'm there. I swim out to get the boat sometime after we arrive at the lake. Then I swim it out to the anchor when we leave. My question has to do with loading in rough water when leaving or as it increases in roughness while we're there to get it off the whips.

Thanks for any real world experiences with lifts. Would it be a foolish waste of money in this kind of scenario?

[vision]

Boathouse lift or floating lift or bottom lift? Guide poles are critical and a bow stop associated with the lift makes a big difference on a busy lake. If you are using a boat house, then skirting in the bay greatly decreases the frustration and make it so the boat is in the perfect position when it touches the front of the bay.

We have a boat house lift and after some practice docking in high winds and rough water, it is not bad. You have to learn that some times you have to come in a bit hot and back off versus trying to come in gentle when the water is rough.

[96SNEFI]

Thank you for the thoughts.
Sorry yes...I'm thinking just one of those simple, standalone, on the bottom next to the dock with the big crank wheel kind of lift.

[vision]

The main down side with an hand crank is speed. Really slow to lift and you will need to be able to hold the boat in place for an extended period of time. Definitely a front stop to prevent prop damage from the boat going to far would be beneficial.

[96SNEFI]

Hmm...well even the powered option takes some time to lift. But that sure would make lifting easier anyway.
So front bow stop and vertical guides front and back.
I wonder if some guides towards the bow can be mounted inwards to also act as a bit of a bow stop as well? So you nose into the lift and the back guides keep most of you in line and then as you go further in the front guides keep you from wobbling around too much in front. Is that something people do?

[MI-skier]

How big of a boat and how rough is the lake.
With the freestanding lifts, most people I know drive the boat "in", then get out and crank it up. You can hold it in place or use the vertical guides to hold in place while cranking.
Never seen a bow stop used. Most ski boats it works well to line up the back of the observer seat with the corner post of the lift for fore/aft positioning. This keeps the prop a few feet from the lift crossbar.
If you are not on perfect, lower it a bit and push pull boat and crank again. Not too tough.
Never done this with 1-2 foot rollers coming in though.

[96SNEFI]

Thanks for your thoughts.
96 SN. So 19.5'.
I wouldn't know how to classify level of roughness. As I wrote on the "other" site, I'm about a mile from the other side facing about north-west. The terrain is pretty level. No valley so it's all pretty open to the winds from the primary weather source, the west. To the east and south-east I'm in a bit of a lee due to a small hill behind me so I get a bit of a break on winds from those directions.
Like I also said over there in the same conversation, my focus is on those few chaotic moments transitioning from floating to stability on the bunks while bobbing and weaving in waves. It would seem that the vertical guides would help in keeping the boat somewhat centered in the lift and not off kilter banging the hull and/or skegs around while waiting for the lifting.
I gather from what you're saying is that perhaps the bunks are just below the surface and that you kind of drive in and like with a trailer you run up a little to be on the bunks while still in the water. In a way kind of teetering on the bunks. Not too much up to avoid power pushing the lift Is that about right? I guess then the opposite, you lower it so that the boat is mostly floating and then back the boat off the lift under power. Do I have the picture about right?
I'm only just now envisioning this scenario with the help of your words "drive the boat in". Obviously one drives a boat into a lift but the scene just came to my mind. So if true maybe I have indeed been overthinking this issue I have with the transition.

[MI-skier]

I'll change my words to "float" the boat in. Most people I know lower bunks all the way so the boat can be hand pushed a few feet back prior to engaging reverse.

After skiing, "coast" it back in to the spot you know lines up front to back and crank it up. I use reverse until it is a foot or three from the target combing back in then hand walk it the rest of the way.

Your skegs will be between the bunks and the lift crossbars. No worries.

I'm able to use one hand to move the boat around as I crank the lift. this allows it to be centered left to right. You can do this with the 196 as well, light boat.

If wind and waves are an issue you could move the vertical posts inward to hold and center the boat better (more force). Only negative to this is it would make a cover slightly harder to put on since it will be pinched in 4 spots...

Not sure what you are referring to for "other" site?

Hope this helps.

[96SNEFI]

Oh. So the bunks aren't partially up and you don't kind of drive up them like a trailer? Hmm. But I think I've clarified that vertical guides would do what I need them to to keep the boat somewhat centered while bouncing on waves. And maybe I'll get that powered pressure wheel crank thing as a luxury.
The other site I mean is correctcraftfan. I figured everybody here would be plenty familiar with it.

[Fast351]

Go look at the spring loaded guide sticks. It'd be like loading most inboard trailers then. Thing I like about these is:

1) They have some give if you really hose up and get out of shape
2) They're vertical, where most are horizontal, which makes sure you hit the rub rail, where horizontal guides have to be at the perfect height or you're hitting gel coat.

My lift (not a Dockrite BTW) is getting delivered this spring and I will buy some of these as soon as it goes in the lake.

[MI-skier]

Not sure i would power on a freestanding lift too hard. Could damage something.
I would try to float on and off. If the wind and waves make this not work, then leave it so there is minimal drag.
Motor is for sure a good idea. I would go 120v over 12v if you can.

[96SNEFI]

Thanks everybody. I think I'll go ahead and make it happen. Get some vertical guides and one of the power motor things and some wheels and I'll be set.

[azeus17]

Look at getting a remote for the lift. If you are really worried about that time between pulling the boat in and getting it out of the water, the remote is a great feature. Just pull in, hit the button on the remote and up you go with the boat. Get it just high enough to be not affected by the waves and then you can unload, etc, and then get out and reposition if you need.

Also, if you are buying a new lift and lift speed is a concern, I certainly would not be buying one of the old crank wheel lifts, even with the electric motor. I would look hydraulic or electric with a powered winch.

[pokesgrad02]

Wind guides a re a must. My lift is channel side where people are often surfing. I just have a visual of where I need my back wind guide in relation to one of my cleats. Just move the boat forward or back by grabbing the wind guide after starting to raise the lift. Then again I am far enough south I can use a float lift. Wind guides are a life saver though if I come off the lake during busy times.

[swatguy]

Guides are a must. A simple up and down pvc pipe munch like your trailer is ten times better than the long carpet guides. The carpet ones that run the length of the lift will smoke you decals at the first run, The upright pvc style will just bump your rubrail