ZR 409 No CES Winterizing

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  • Bansheein
    • Jun 2013
    • 18

    • Utah

    • 2009 SANTE 230
    #1

    ZR 409 No CES Winterizing

    Just want to make sure I am not missing anything for winterizing before we get freezing temperatures. Put stabilizer in fuel tank. I ran 5 gallons of RV Antifreeze through the raw water filter (strainer). Pulled the water strainer and filter out and stored in a zip lock. Pulled the bottom plug on each manifold, let drain, and replaced. Pulled the V-drive plug, let drain, and replaced. Pulled the bottom heat exchanger drain plug and replaced. Took off the drive belt and put in a zip lock to store. Pulled both hoses from raw water (rubber impeller) and took out impeller and stored in a zip lock. Put 1 gallon of RV antifreeze into each ballast vent and ran fill/empty for a moment on each tank. Questions I have are: Can the antifreeze be run through the strainer, while the motor is cold? and is it ok if this was done before the drain plugs were removed. Does the heater get taken care of in of these steps? Anything else I may have skipped, other than taking out batteries, spraying the interior, covering, etc?

    Thanks for any replies.
    Tags: None
  • j2nh
    Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
    • Dec 2003
    • 628

    • Spread Eagle Wisconsin

    #2
    Sounds like you have it covered. The heater is part of the closed cooling side and does not need to be winterized. I would go ahead and order a new impeller for the spring.
    2018 200 Team H6
    2009 196 Team ZR 409
    2005 196 Limited ZR 375
    2003 196 Limited Excalibur
    1999 196 Masters Edition
    1995 ProStar 190 LT1 (Bayliner)
    1987 ProStar 190

    Comment

    • yujrtnortho85
      • Oct 2015
      • 9

      • Nashville, TN

      • 2013 Super Air Nautique 230 Team Edition
      #3
      I am in the process of winterizing a ZR 409 CES as well. I traced the lines to the heater and they are definitely on the coolant loop; however, page 10-4 in the manual under winterizing says for Closed Loop systems to drain the "fluid" from the heater core by disconnecting the lines and blowing them out. I suppose it couldn't hurt but is it really necessary? I would think the coolant would be fine.

      This is from the 2013 Owners Manual:

      Winterizing the Heater System (in Closed-Cooled
      Engines Only)
      1. Disconnect the hose connections at the engine (2 each).
      2. Place one hose end into a small bucket and introduce 50 PSI
      (or less) of air into the other hose end. This will force all fluid
      out of the hoses and the heater core.
      3. Reconnect the hoses to the engine.

      Thoughts?

      Comment

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