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I apologize if I started this post before but I cannot find it so I am starting again.
Let's start with the final results from my water test this morning... Rear tanks fill in 4.5 minutes, front tank fills in 5.5 minutes, rear tanks drain in 3.5 minutes, front tank drains in 5 minutes. Absolutely no leaks into the tanks when the valves are turned to the closed position!
My 2005 SV 211 with helm control ballast system had developed a few issues by the end of it's first summer. Based on other posts and Henry's write-up (hsmunoz) I decided to replace the flo-rite valves with the TH Valves. Henry did a very good job of writing that up so I won't bore everybody with those details. The dealers can also do the replacement but I recommend doing this instead.
I always wondered why the larger center ballast tank filled quicker than the rear tanks? I thought it must have had a bigger pump? Nope, it's because the valve on the center tank is after the pump not before it like the valves on the rear tanks. The aerator pumps work much better with the valves downstream so they are not starved for water.
I also relocated the pumps so they screw right into the manual ball valves with the output facing up so they would get primed without having to move the boat. This works so well I am sure that the scoops are no longer needed. The key here is the fact that the factory Attwood 750gph pumps have removeable bases. You need to remove the base and screw it directly into the output of the manual ball valve then re-assemble the pump (notice "<-LOCK" on the pix). The pumps for the rear tanks fit nice and tidy right next to the transmission. The belly tank input had an unnecessary 45 degree fitting and close nipple that I removed so the pump would sit lower in the hull (in better water). My pumps also had about 4" of 3/4 threaded pipe on the inlet, I cut it down to about 1" (see pix below). Again, you will need to remove the pump base to get it in there.
To remove the pumps just remove the phillips screw at the base and give it a twist. Mine were a little stiff, required a littly prying then they came right apart. I added 90 degree fittings on the pump outputs so the exit hoses point towards the back of the boat (slightly angled away from the motor). There was enough slack in the helm control cables that allowed the valves to be mounted behind the pumps. TIP! Since you already have the pumps apart assemble the hoses and valves before putting them back on their bases. It's much easier to do this than to fight the hose fittings up under the motor. Attach the cable to valve just before putting the pump back on it's base.
I am quite happy with the ballast system now.
Sorry for lack of pix, I took some but they didn't come out well with the motor mounts in the way.
Let's start with the final results from my water test this morning... Rear tanks fill in 4.5 minutes, front tank fills in 5.5 minutes, rear tanks drain in 3.5 minutes, front tank drains in 5 minutes. Absolutely no leaks into the tanks when the valves are turned to the closed position!
My 2005 SV 211 with helm control ballast system had developed a few issues by the end of it's first summer. Based on other posts and Henry's write-up (hsmunoz) I decided to replace the flo-rite valves with the TH Valves. Henry did a very good job of writing that up so I won't bore everybody with those details. The dealers can also do the replacement but I recommend doing this instead.
I always wondered why the larger center ballast tank filled quicker than the rear tanks? I thought it must have had a bigger pump? Nope, it's because the valve on the center tank is after the pump not before it like the valves on the rear tanks. The aerator pumps work much better with the valves downstream so they are not starved for water.
I also relocated the pumps so they screw right into the manual ball valves with the output facing up so they would get primed without having to move the boat. This works so well I am sure that the scoops are no longer needed. The key here is the fact that the factory Attwood 750gph pumps have removeable bases. You need to remove the base and screw it directly into the output of the manual ball valve then re-assemble the pump (notice "<-LOCK" on the pix). The pumps for the rear tanks fit nice and tidy right next to the transmission. The belly tank input had an unnecessary 45 degree fitting and close nipple that I removed so the pump would sit lower in the hull (in better water). My pumps also had about 4" of 3/4 threaded pipe on the inlet, I cut it down to about 1" (see pix below). Again, you will need to remove the pump base to get it in there.
To remove the pumps just remove the phillips screw at the base and give it a twist. Mine were a little stiff, required a littly prying then they came right apart. I added 90 degree fittings on the pump outputs so the exit hoses point towards the back of the boat (slightly angled away from the motor). There was enough slack in the helm control cables that allowed the valves to be mounted behind the pumps. TIP! Since you already have the pumps apart assemble the hoses and valves before putting them back on their bases. It's much easier to do this than to fight the hose fittings up under the motor. Attach the cable to valve just before putting the pump back on it's base.
I am quite happy with the ballast system now.
Sorry for lack of pix, I took some but they didn't come out well with the motor mounts in the way.
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