Putting RV Antifreeze in engine

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  • vision
    Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
    • Jul 2011
    • 515

    • NC

    • 2013 G23

    #16
    Originally posted by scottb7 View Post
    That makes absolutely no sense. If you do want to run it for 10-15 seconds. Which is not necessary, you certainly don't need to pull the plugs and put them back in...
    Unless you pull the intake hose from the raw water intake pump, water will stay in the hose from the strainer to the pump, as well as the strainer. If you pull off and manually drain the intake hose and drain the strainer, then yes, you should not need to run the motor.

    Since I do not remove this hose or the strainer, I have had the hose freeze despite removing all the drain plugs listed in the manual. I prefer to suck out the water from the intake pathway by running the motor as this also makes sure minimal water is left in the pump housing between the vanes. Just a preference.

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    • Twiles66
      • Aug 2015
      • 12

      • Ohio

      • 2015 SAN 210

      #17
      Is there a need to do any winterization if I am keeping my boat in a heated garage?

      Comment

      • scottb7
        1,000 Post Club Member
        • Aug 2011
        • 2198

        • Carson City, Nevada

        • 2014 G21 (Current) 2008 SANTE 210

        #18
        Nope, not if you are 100% certain the heat won't fail without you knowing it.

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        • MLA
          1,000 Post Club Member
          • Dec 2009
          • 1312

          • Lake Wylie NC Area


          #19
          That really depends on what your definition of winterizing is. If you are comfortable that there will be no loss of electricity/heat in the building, then no freeze prevention needed. For most boaters, winter time freeze prevention is also a time when most of the yearly maintenance is completed. This along with some fuel treatment, should still be done, IMO. The boat will likely not go through much fuel in the off season.

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          • scottb7
            1,000 Post Club Member
            • Aug 2011
            • 2198

            • Carson City, Nevada

            • 2014 G21 (Current) 2008 SANTE 210

            #20
            oops, i do agree with above...you do have to stabilize the fuel

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            • jhersey29
              • Nov 2013
              • 330

              • Colorado

              • 1971 Correct Craft Mustang 1988 Ski Nautique 1992 Ski Nautique 1999 Ski Nautique

              #21
              Won't hurt to condition the vinyl and loosen the belts to relieve tension on belts and bearings. Maintaining the battery isn't a bad idea.
              Sent from my RM-877_nam_att_205 using Tapatalk

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              • countiemountie
                • Aug 2006
                • 63

                • Kalkaska and SE MI

                • 2024 GS22

                #22
                The Perko is garbage. I had one on my Exc and put about 35 psi of water on it and before I was able to turn the key, one the fittings around a screw cracked making the Perko worthless. If this incident would have happened on the water instead of in my driveway I would have been SOL.

                Simpler is better. I bought a dry vac hose that I will stick into a 5 gallon bucket of AF for winterization next time.

                Comment

                • Beg4wake
                  Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
                  • Oct 2014
                  • 563

                  • Radford VA

                  • 2016 Nautique G23. Masters Blue/Gunmetal Flake

                  #23
                  Originally posted by Twiles66 View Post
                  Is there a need to do any winterization if I am keeping my boat in a heated garage?

                  As stated above, as long as you're sure the garage won't lose heat at any point in the winter (ie a power outage), then you should be fine. still wouldn't hurt to at least drain as much water as possible considering it really isn't that hard. And you should def add some stabil and run the engine for a bit to get it into all the lines, etc. And you should also change the oil before putting it up. This isn't just done as "regular maintenance". An oil change is recommended before winterizing because you really don't want old contaminated oil sitting in there, stagnant over a few months. NOT good for any motor. Fresh oil is better for the downtime...plus you'll have the fresh oil to start off next season. Even though some people will still change it again then too (not really necessary).

                  I usually add stabil, run the engine for a good 10-15 mins to get stabil mixed in the fuel system (I personally also add an ethanol treatment) as well as heat the oil up to make it easier to change, change the oil, then drain the water from the block and such, then add antifreeze back in if desired. I also add antifreeze to the ballast pumps and a little in the tanks as well. Just take the inlet side of the ballast pump off, hook one end of a spare hose I have to that inlet and the other side to a bucket of antifreeze then just hit fill for a few seconds on the dash. Repeat for each ballast pump.

                  Comment

                  • pmellis
                    • Feb 2015
                    • 34

                    • Dallas, TX

                    • 2015 G23 450 HP 2021 G23 450 HP

                    #24
                    Originally posted by countiemountie View Post
                    The Perko is garbage. I had one on my Exc and put about 35 psi of water on it and before I was able to turn the key, one the fittings around a screw cracked making the Perko worthless. If this incident would have happened on the water instead of in my driveway I would have been SOL.
                    Simpler is better. I bought a dry vac hose that I will stick into a 5 gallon bucket of AF for winterization next time.
                    I went simple too. Pulled water intake hose and put in a 2 gallon bucket of antifreeze and filled with 2 more gallons while engine was running. Really easy. No danger of boat sinking if Perko failed.

                    Comment

                    • SuperAirIan
                      • Jan 2009
                      • 35

                      • Alberta, Canada

                      • 2001 SAN 8.2L Python, FAE, 2.3K, 4 Johnsons

                      #25
                      8.2L Python. Stick intake hose into bucket of clean-running fresh water. Idle engine to 160*F. Drain system. Stick intake hose in bucket of (5) gallons -200 Starbrite and (2) gallons de-ionized water. Run engine till antifreeze bucket is empty...making sure both the heater AND shower are running too. Change 15W-40 oil and remote filter. Done.

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