Distributor Cap and rotor on the PCM EX 343

[kwalker]

Summerizing the boat today and unable to get it started on the hose. Thought it was a battery issue, so purchased a new one. Cranking over but struggling to start up. After a few calls and told it was going to be a month before it could be seen by the PCM mechanic they mentioned checking the distr. cap. Apparently those flat style caps are notorious for corrosion after sitting during the winter. Changed the cap and rotor and fired up immediately. Runs so much smoother as well. Thought I would share for anyone with these 5.7 L Vortec EX 343 motors. (2008). Should have done this last year!

[scottb7]

This is interesting to me as I like to keep my boat as "tuned up" as possible. But the distributor cap and rotor are not shown in manual to be a replacement item at any amount of hours. kwalker, do you have pics of what the worn parts looked like? Anyone have thoughts on this?

[aZ`]

Call me prepared or pedantic, I keep a number of spares on my boat just in case and this is certainly one of them.


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[scottb7]

I took a look. Seems like you have to move the little fuse box to get the distributor cap off, don't you? I bought a distributor cap and rotor. When it comes I will take a look. Boat runs fine...But I got over 1,000 hours so maybe it will help a bit.

[nukemustang]

This is interesting to me as I like to keep my boat as "tuned up" as possible. But the distributor cap and rotor are not shown in manual to be a replacement item at any amount of hours. kwalker, do you have pics of what the worn parts looked like? Anyone have thoughts on this?

I usually replace them every other year. They do tend to build up a fair bit of corrosion, especially if you do not get to put a whole bunch of hours on your boat. they are cheap to replace, and I always keep the one I pulled off as a spare till I get a new one. there is usually some green corrosion built up on the points.

[aZ`]

No need to remove the fuse box, a torx bit in one of those flex drive screw driver things will get you to both screws.


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[kwalker]

This is the old cap.

[nukemustang]

Yup.... I take a dremmel with a little wire wheel, knock that stuff off of the cap and rotor too and keep it as a back up till the next swap out.

[vvfdfirefighter]

A nice piece of emery cloth will work like a charm for those.

[scottb7]

Here is mine @ about 1,044 hours. I think it does run a bit better. Fun project for 12 bucks. Based on how mine looks and how great it ran before changing, and fact that it is NOT listed on the maintenance schedule, I would say only need to replace every 500 to 1,000 hours. But to each his own.

[peteSki]

Good tip! I'm new to the Excalibur 330 engine as I just got my boat last September. Didn't have any issues starting up this season but will give this a check and likely look at replacing it as part of next spring's tune up. I believe I located the cap and rotor on nautiqueparts.com, a little more than $12 but still worth doing IMO.

http://www.nautiqueparts.com/distributorgmefi.aspx
http://www.nautiqueparts.com/rotorexcaliburmotors.aspx

Pete

[pSchwade]

Will this kit work? its one of the only ones I could find that has brass contacts.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ms...make/chevrolet

[gatorgates]

After the first few years on my Excalibur, I have gotten to where I change mine every time I change my impeller - every two years. 'Course where I live the air is essentially a liquid in the summer and I have to believe that somehow contributes to the corrosion.

[rcazwillis]

Those MSD caps are good. I have used them on many a high performance street vehicle. If that one fits, let us know. I will follow course and get the same piece.