2005 210 Won't Start

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  • phillid
    • May 2015
    • 43

    • Wisconsin

    • 2005 SAN TE 210

    2005 210 Won't Start

    I'm looking for some help. Getting my 2005 SAN 210 with a PCM Excalibur ready. Last fall changed the oil and filter and the necessary draining of all the water. This spring I changed the impeller, new belt, new plugs and fuel cell filter. I'm concerned about the fuel filter. The cell on my boat is held on by a clamp so getting the housing on and off was pretty easy. Once back together is there a next step for priming the unit? I'm trying to fire the motor to make sure it turns over before I take it to the lake but it won't fire at all. Seems like a lack of fuel.

    ​Any thoughts or ideas that I should try to get it to fire.

    Dave
  • rbalan
    • Jul 2003
    • 328

    • Georgia

    • 2002 SANTE

    #2
    If it won't turn over, it's not fuel. There is something electrical/starter related. If it won't fire, then you may have a fuel problem or ignition related. Btw, get a fake a lake so you can run at home, they are pretty cheap. I winterize my fuel with a stabilizer as well enforce putting it up.
    Last edited by rbalan; 05-16-2016, 07:31 AM.

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    • phillid
      • May 2015
      • 43

      • Wisconsin

      • 2005 SAN TE 210

      #3
      It does turn over, won't fire. I have been researching and am wondering about the knock sensor. Could that be a problem here? During winterization I removed it to drain the block and reinstalled per instruction. I don't think it is but not smart enough to be certain. Also when I try to fire it on my speedo digital readout I see what looks like a code "5 8888" but only displayed for a second or two. Could this be a sign of an issue?

      Comment

      • Quinner
        1,000 Post Club Member
        • Apr 2004
        • 2246

        • Unknown

        • Correct Crafts

        #4
        Knock sensor is likely not your issue however if you used Teflon tape/past then remove all of it and re-install. Only needs to be snug, do not overtighten.

        ​Assuming you drained the FCC you will need to cycle the ignition on/off several times to get some fuel back in the FCC. Be sure and double check the lanyard to be sure it is securely fastened. Ignition on wait till pumps stop pumping - then off and repeat several times.

        Skip the fake-a-lake, get a flush pro or make your own "flush pro" for cheaper then either can be purchased.

        Comment

        • phillid
          • May 2015
          • 43

          • Wisconsin

          • 2005 SAN TE 210

          #5
          Thanks Quinner, this is exactly what I have been doing. The knock sensor is installed as you stated. I checked the lanyard, did this based on past experiences. I did drain the FCC when I replaced the filter and have cycled the ignition several times, going on 15 times I bet. I can hear the fuel pump run for a 2-3 seconds each time I cycle the ignition, then when they stop I hit the start again (I have a keypad) to try to fire the motor. Once I get it to fire I will take to the lake for true start up. I am going to work on getting some type of device to run out of the water.

          Comment

          • Quinner
            1,000 Post Club Member
            • Apr 2004
            • 2246

            • Unknown

            • Correct Crafts

            #6
            So no Teflon tape on the knock sensor?? Probably not your issue but is there fresh fuel in the tank??

            Maybe remove your FCC and see how much fuel is in it, if any, perhaps prime and re-install if necessary. You may also want to remove the Low pressure pump and take it apart and inspect for any clogging/junk. The LPP on my 05' Excal died in 2014 & about 450hrs, had the exact same problem as this the beginning of that season.

            The LPP needs to fill the FCC for the HPP to feed fuel to the motor.

            Search "Timmy Tee" or similar on CCFan, you can make a flush tee for very few $$$.

            Comment

            • phillid
              • May 2015
              • 43

              • Wisconsin

              • 2005 SAN TE 210

              #7
              I removed the FCC and no fuel at all in it. I checked the wiring inside all it looked good so put it back together and tried to get it going by cycling the ignition but no luck. I will look into the LPP

              Comment

              • pSchwade
                • May 2012
                • 127

                • Reno

                • 07' 220 SANTE

                #8
                if after cycling the ignition 15ish times to run the LP pump and theres still no fuel in the FCC you are probably looking at an air leak between the LP pump and the fuel tank. The pumps do fail, but unless you took it apart or something its doubtful that it went from working to "activating and not pumping" in the off season. that is assuming that you were hearing the LP pump cycling (i believe the HP pump cycles too).

                For a sanity check you could probably fill the FCC with gas and make sure it fires up.

                Comment

                • phillid
                  • May 2015
                  • 43

                  • Wisconsin

                  • 2005 SAN TE 210

                  #9
                  There is nothing between the tank and the LPP, just a fuel line direct from the tank to the pump, no filter or shut-off valve. So I find it hard to think there could be a leak, unless the hose has a leak. I should be able to check that easy enough though. I guess I cannot 100% say I can hear the LPP cycling. I hear what sounds like a pump cycling and then some clicking. Is there anyway to check the LPP to verify it is functioning?

                  Comment

                  • pSchwade
                    • May 2012
                    • 127

                    • Reno

                    • 07' 220 SANTE

                    #10
                    yea, normally you would pull the output hose off of the FCC and run it into a bucket to measure flow rate, if that doesnt work you might want to try using a short section on intake hose so you are only testing the LP pump without having to worry about anything upstream. make sure to leave all of the electrical connected and operate the pump by cycling the ignition so there is less chance of causing a spark.

                    Comment

                    • Quinner
                      1,000 Post Club Member
                      • Apr 2004
                      • 2246

                      • Unknown

                      • Correct Crafts

                      #11
                      Have you checked the relay for the LPP? If that is OK and you took the pump off and checked it for dirt/clogged screen I would probably just replace the LPP.

                      Comment

                      • phillid
                        • May 2015
                        • 43

                        • Wisconsin

                        • 2005 SAN TE 210

                        #12
                        I have not checked the relay for the LPP, can you explain how to I would do that?

                        Comment

                        • phillid
                          • May 2015
                          • 43

                          • Wisconsin

                          • 2005 SAN TE 210

                          #13
                          Is it fairly straight forward to check the LPP for dirt or clogged screen? Where it is mounted I can't tell how I would get it apart if I were to remove it.

                          Comment

                          • Quinner
                            1,000 Post Club Member
                            • Apr 2004
                            • 2246

                            • Unknown

                            • Correct Crafts

                            #14
                            This is the relay ........http://www.nautiqueparts.com/relay12vgmfuelpumptbi.aspx

                            ​Your is backwards, should be towards the front of the motor on the starboard side. Should be 2 of the same, swap them and see if that makes a difference.

                            Yes straight forward on the pump, they are easy to remove (on a direct drive), take it off and inspect it.

                            If you don't mind dropping a little over a hundred $$$ I would just get a new one ........http://www.nautiqueparts.com/fuelpum...ricsupply.aspx





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