Correct replacement parts question 2003 SANTE

[slidin_out]

So my 03 SANTE starting taking on water while running the past few trips out. Just got around today to checking where it was coming from. The seal on the water pump impeller cover had blown out. Part of the seal was sticking out and water was shooting into the bilge. So I pulled the pump and brought it home to start looking up part numbers. Have these two items as what I think I need to replace the impeller and the gasket. Please correct me if I'm wrong or verify before I order tomorrow. From what I can research and tell I need both the gasket and impeller kit but I won't use the o-ring that comes with the impeller.

http://www.nautiqueparts.com/search.aspx?find=RP061017

I also want to order some spare belts to keep on the boat just in case. Are these the correct two?

RWP belt - http://www.nautiqueparts.com/search.aspx?find=R066026
Alternator belt - http://www.nautiqueparts.com/search.aspx?find=R066008

Appreciate the help! Need to get it back together for the weekend and want to make sure I have the correct parts first try.

[Skidave]

I'm assuming you have the Excalibur 330 motor by the age, the belt you reference and your water pump gasket. For what it is worth, the 2003 Excalibur had a water pump replacement (not necessarily a recall). The original water pump used the thin gasket you reference. After the first change, I could never get mine to seal properly and ended up calling PCM about the issue. I gave them the pump ID info (stamped on the back cover) and they said that pump model was troublesome. They shipped me a new replacement that looked exactly the same, but had a grove for the O-ring (and came with an O-ring). I have not had a problem since. My older Nautique had the water pump with the O-ring seal so that was what I was used to.

I'm not sure if the 03 water pump bulletin is on the forum, I should have looked before I started typing.

Here is the impeller kit from Discount Inboard Marine; the kit comes with the paper gasket and the O-ring. I'm happy to throw that gasket away every time I change my impeller.
http://www.skidim.com/IMPELLER-PCM-G...info/RP061017/

It may be worth some research. I received a new water pump while under warranty and going on 10+ years now.

Hit me back with any questions.

Dave

[core-rider]

To answer your questions... Yes those are the correct parts if you are running the Excaliber 330 engine. The impeller will come with the gasket and o-ring so you don't need to order them separate unless you just wanted a spare.

I haven't heard of the replacement pump Skidave spoke of, but it does make sense. I've not had any issues with using the gasket, but can see if you didn't have the sealing surfaces clean and flat it would be prone to leaking.

[rossrips7]

I'm with ski Dave about the gasket. Had never used it then I tried to clean everything and use it and it leaked. Took it back off and removed it and reassembled and wah lah no leak. Weird


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[slidin_out]

My local boat shop had the impeller kit with the correct gasket in stock. Picked it up this morning and going to install it at lunch and water test it. Noticed on the impeller cover plate on the inside that it was shiny where the impeller was making slight contact with the cover. I'm assuming that is normal due to a tight fit??? Does the impeller pop out pretty easily? Ok to keep old impeller as an emergency spare or will it dry out and go brittle on me?

[Skidave]

I kept and old one in my glove box. For this year motor, I gave up on thinking I would change it on the water. You will see. Big pain in the a$$. I no longer keep one in the glove box.

Yes, it will be a bit shinny where the impeller rubs. There is a special tool to pull the impeller. I use some channel locks carefully to pull the old one because I have no plan to re-use it.

Let me know how u make out.

[core-rider]

I kept and old one in my glove box. For this year motor, I gave up on thinking I would change it on the water. You will see. Big pain in the a$$. I no longer keep one in the glove box.

Yes, it will be a bit shinny where the impeller rubs. There is a special tool to pull the impeller. I use some channel locks carefully to pull the old one because I have no plan to re-use it.

Let me know how u make out.

It's not too bad to change. It is more difficult to work on with factory wedge hard tanks, but not impossible. The job is made much easier by just removing the pump assembly from the engine bay. It's just 2 bolts and 2 hose clamps. I can have mine in and out in around 30 minutes. Probably faster now that the tanks are removed.

As far as removing the implore from the houseing... I use a flat blade screwdriver and lightly pry it up on both sides until it comes out if i can't remove it by hand. Most of the time if I'm replacing them it's because it failed or ran dry and most of the blades are missing. It slides right out in that case.

[slidin_out]

I don't have the tanks any more so I just pulled the pump. Took about 2 minutes. Can't break free from work to put it in today but it's not a painful process so far.

[Skidave]

You guys are talking about the SANTE, I have the Air 206...which is still a direct drive. The water pump is wedged in close to the floor and I have to loosen the alternator and remove the belt just to get the water pump out of the bilge. It takes way longer to remove and reinstall the pump Vs the impeller.

If it is that easy for you, but a new impeller and keep in your glove box.

[slidin_out]

Swapped out the impeller and gasket in just a few minutes. Put it in the water and cranked it up. When it first started there was a steady drip coming from the same place. Let it run for a few minutes then turned it off and tried to tighten the bolts on the impeller cover. They didn't really tighten much if any at all. Cranked it up and let it get to normal operating temperature. Cranked up the RPMs to about 2000 and there was a fine mist of water coming out of the gasket. I didn't notice it for a few minutes and I was down in the port locker face to face with it. Took it for a 10 minute run to check water circulation and the temp stayed under 165 like it should. Checked the leak again before putting it on the trailer and the mist was gone and the steady drip was almost gone. I guess running it seated the seal a little better. Taking our normal Water Wednesday ride tomorrow afternoon so I'll keep an eye on it. When the boat was on the trailer there wasn't even enough water in the bilge for the pumps to pump anything out. Before the bilge would run the whole time we were turning around to pick up a rider it was leaking so bad.

[core-rider]

The backing plate may be slightly bent causing it not to seal very well. My guess is once the pump ran for awhile and all the parts heated up expanding the metals the leak went away. Could be wrong, but check again tomorrow before running it too long to see if the leak has returned.

[slidin_out]

No leaking yesterday. Rode for ~3 hours non-stop and the bilge ran for about 3 seconds one time I turned it on. I guess it just had to get heated up and set in good. If it ever starts leaking again I'll probably just go to AutoZone and get a roll of gasket material that is a touch thicker and cut my own gasket or just add a fine bead of gasket maker on the outside edges on both sides of the gasket and be done with it.